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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Project Resto - Supercharged 1992 GT 'Vert

  • Thread starter Thread starter STI_MECE
  • Start date Start date Feb 2, 2019
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STI_MECE

What goes in this hole?
Feb 2, 2019
84
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Houston
Feb 3, 2020
#141
  • Feb 3, 2020
  • #141
Just wanted to share my experience with swapping heater cores. I wish I recorded this.

So pulling the dash out, if your experienced with wrenching and a contortionist, you can free the dash in 1hr max, and that I includes organizing all the screws and nuts and panels.

It took is 3.5 hours to get the new heater core IN. We had to Dremel an edge off the back right of the box. It's liked this curved section where the heater core too has to slide over. We also trimmed some areas of the plastic that werre clearly hitting the top of the inner firewall.

You must put the heater core and panel back in at once together. We did not bother getting the back screws in. No way in hell could my hands take anymore torture.

And check out pictures below. First picture is the heater core from LMR. IT CLEARLY DOESNT FIT RIGHT. AND IT IS THE RIGHT ONE

Next is OEM. And the one below that is heater core we got from radiator express. It actually had the solder joint boxed looking joints too. It fit like OEM as shown.

And we did this with the AC still connected!
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
6,945
5,816
213
Feb 3, 2020
#142
  • Feb 3, 2020
  • #142
I couldn't do that to a heater box. A leak in that box will cause a real pressure drop. I've cheated a bunch of heater cores but it was always easy to seal them back up. It's so easy for my to pull the dash and heater box in a mustang I just couldn't bring myself to do it.
 
S

STI_MECE

What goes in this hole?
Feb 2, 2019
84
15
18
Houston
Feb 14, 2020
#143
  • Feb 14, 2020
  • #143
I figured out what the stuttering issue around 2k rpm. Its lugging the transmission. What is funny is how lightly you can apply the throttle and it will buck.

I tried lightly accelerating at 1.5k rpm in 3rd and sure enough it did the same thing up until around 2100-2200 rpm.

I slid my shift points now to be at 3k rpm. Other than that she is running good as new. Just need to do the altenator to get all back to square.
 

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
10 Year Member
Apr 6, 2011
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6,721
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Hillsborough county
Feb 14, 2020
#144
  • Feb 14, 2020
  • #144
lugging and 2k dont equate unless you are in overdrive with a big cam...
 
S

STI_MECE

What goes in this hole?
Feb 2, 2019
84
15
18
Houston
Feb 14, 2020
#145
  • Feb 14, 2020
  • #145
Well it might have a cam, but I do not know if its a big cam or not lol it sounds like its cammed, but I wouldn't call it a jaw dropping lope
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Feb 14, 2020
#146
  • Feb 14, 2020
  • #146
Sure you don't have a bad spot on your tps? Do a sweep test on it.
 
S

STI_MECE

What goes in this hole?
Feb 2, 2019
84
15
18
Houston
Feb 14, 2020
#147
  • Feb 14, 2020
  • #147
ill do a sweep test....It felt like a lugging tranny because i did the same thing at 1.5k rpm as i do at 2k rpm. But Ill go back and check lol
 
S

STI_MECE

What goes in this hole?
Feb 2, 2019
84
15
18
Houston
Mar 13, 2020
#148
  • Mar 13, 2020
  • #148
Well I put the new alternator on the stang. 130 amp PA with 4 gauge wiring inside flame retardant corrugated plastic tubing hook up to a 125 amp blue sea fuse block. I cut the two black wires and taped them off will still retaining the fuseable link.

and ran everything else as it should. Its almost like it doesnt know how much voltage it actually needs....

It idled alot better when cranking it up and you can hear the fuel pump humming along....but what is funny is the voltage is fine for one minute then after it kicks down from like 900 ish rpm to its idle around 675 the voltage goes from midway on the gauge down to like 11 ish where it was before.

checked all grounds and connections all is good and secure.

And when i crank everything on, blower, lights radio at full blast, idling, its probably around 11.5 ish. same spot it was at before the upgrade but still better.

And when its idiling around 13.7 volts you can see the "mild cam" causing the lights to go dim bright dim bright etc....

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, but i checked everything out. hmmm......
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,923
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polk county florida
Mar 13, 2020
#149
  • Mar 13, 2020
  • #149
Can you jack your idle up to like 700rpms maybe 750 and see if it is better?
 

Boostedpimp

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
1,451
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NJ
Mar 13, 2020
#150
  • Mar 13, 2020
  • #150
STI_MECE said:
Well I put the new alternator on the stang. 130 amp PA with 4 gauge wiring inside flame retardant corrugated plastic tubing hook up to a 125 amp blue sea fuse block. I cut the two black wires and taped them off will still retaining the fuseable link.

and ran everything else as it should. Its almost like it doesnt know how much voltage it actually needs....

It idled alot better when cranking it up and you can hear the fuel pump humming along....but what is funny is the voltage is fine for one minute then after it kicks down from like 900 ish rpm to its idle around 675 the voltage goes from midway on the gauge down to like 11 ish where it was before.

checked all grounds and connections all is good and secure.

And when i crank everything on, blower, lights radio at full blast, idling, its probably around 11.5 ish. same spot it was at before the upgrade but still better.

And when its idiling around 13.7 volts you can see the "mild cam" causing the lights to go dim bright dim bright etc....

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, but i checked everything out. hmmm......
Click to expand...


Sounds to me like you didn't swap your factory pulley over to the 3g... which would result in you not getting enough charging volts at idle because the 3g pulley is larger in diameter.
 
Reactions: General karthief
S

STI_MECE

What goes in this hole?
Feb 2, 2019
84
15
18
Houston
Mar 13, 2020
#151
  • Mar 13, 2020
  • #151
You know.....you are right. I told myself while I was doing this job I needed to check and verify the pulleys were the same size and I forgot to do that. I did this over 2ish weeks, I bought another project car so my time was split.

So let me ask this, even though I did get a PA 130 amp alternator for the mustang for my year, they wouldn't have already swapped the pulleys to begin with? Why else would they say that this is a replacement alternator for my fox body if the pulley is a different diameter?

Is that the same reason every company sells the PA wiring harness for the 130amp alternator which is a 200 amp inline fuse with 4 gauge wire?and also telling you to tap into the factory power wires?

Hopefully I can at least swap the pulleys with the alternator on the vehicle.

I aint touching that damn vortech bracket again lol
 
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