im putting in a new shortblock from summint in my 90 vert next weekend, its the 302 block, i need to no what the torque specs r for my gt40 iron heads, they r the heads from a 93 cobra. and anything else in should no about, like r flywheel bolts tough to get off?? the car has 100,000 miles on it, will my stock oil pan be able to be reused or should i get a new one??
putting in new shortblock next weekend
- Thread starter dfresh5050
- Start date
mike keirstead
New Member
dfresh5050 said:
If your stock oil pan don't leak and it's not rusted, USE IT again. Give it a fresh coat of paint. The heads should be torqued to 75-80 ft/lbs.
Flywheels are easy to get off.
tomorrow is the day, i will be puttin in the new shortblock, i have a few more questions, i have 1.7 sorpion rocker arms on the heads, what valve clearance do i need for them and torque, when boltin them back down and does the engine need to be at top dead center for that,
also when pullin engine, whats the easiest way?? undo flywheel bolts first or what??
is it that hard to pull the engine?
also when pullin engine, whats the easiest way?? undo flywheel bolts first or what??
is it that hard to pull the engine?
IndyBlk5.0
New Member
roller rockers need to be set at 0 lash, or no pressure from the pushrod on the rocker... if the heads have been milled before the rockers could need to be shimed (.030 should be pleanty becuase of angle) i am not sure if these rockers are pedestal or not. top dead center is just so you can drop the dizzy in and be close if you pull it. pretty sure the torque specs are about 25 pounds for rockers, and when you are at 0 lash, you should be able to "spin" the pushrod around with your fingers, if not, its too tight and it needs to be shimmed.
IndyBlk5.0 said:
there arnt any shims on there now, we didn't need them when we put the heads on my old block, but 0 lash, i dont understand that, i put the pushrods and they were fine, the engine was at top center though.
still need to about pullin the engine and what kind of lube do i need for all of the seals and gaskets?
IndyBlk5.0
New Member
put a dab or rtv on head water jacket bolts, and just a tad of oil on the upper head bolts. (you can tell the difference the water jacket bolts allready come with some sealant from the factory) 0 lash, simply the point where (when rocker bolted down) the pushrod is not putting and force on the rocker, this is the right way to bolt these rockers down. Do it by individual rocker, get a ratchet on your crank bolt down there and turn the crank until you see that the valve is closed... and then tighten it down, check if you can move pushrod, if so, then move onto next vavle, turn crank until 0 lash (valve all the way closed) and do these steps for the rest of the rockers. should be just fine. the idea is to not have any force on the rockers when you torque them down... turn the crank by hand... as for gaskets, headgaskets go on dry, (read above about bolts) lower intake gasket can go on dry (or you could put a dab of rtv around the water ports in the lower) i rtved ever single lower intake bolt. checked the torque over and over 5 times before i left it alone. upper intake is dry with just a gasket, also has a torque rating... REMEMBER, heads and intake are to be torqued down in SEQUENCE and STEPS.... hope this helped.
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