Question about 3G install.

I see where to put those grounds, but I mean where is the ground on the actual alternator? Like I said, I didnt see any instructions saying to do that, but it is a good idea to.. I just finished installing it and it works fine, but I would like to put that ground in as well. So where on the alternator do I connect the ground cable?


Also, like I said I finished installing it, and it works.. But still, when I turn my lights on, or radio, or anything like that.. The battery meter still goes down a hair.. No big deal, but I thought the 3G would be powerful enough for that not to happen?
 
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So what did you guys do with the 2 unused power wires? tape them up and keep them there? Do they go directly into the solenoid so I can unplug it from there?

Also.. Glowstang93 mentioned to use an extra ground wire.. I hadnt seen that in any instrustions, but its a good idea.. Where does it connect to on the alternator?
Cap off the old power wires, tuck them back along the old harness and tpae them there. The other end of the wires terminate at a fuseable link on the solenoid. DO NOT disconnect it from the solenoid. That fuseable link also goes to the voltage regulator.

The alternaotr does not have a connection for a ground wire. The case is grounded through the engine block. What you should do is run a 4 ga. ground wire from the block to the chassis. Putting it where the braided ground strap goes from the firewall to the block is a good suggestion. It is also adviseable to run another ground from the block to the ground connection for the computer -- on the fender wall between the battery and the starter solenoid.
 
Well, I put a 2 gauge ground wire from there the battery grounds to the bolt that holds in the strut..

My LAST question is about the YELLOW wire.. I noticed that some intructions say to splice it and connect it right to the 4 guage wire I installed on the alternator, and some dont mention it.. Right now I did nothing with it, and the alternator seems to be working fine.. What should I do with it?

Also, if I do put it in with the 4 guage, do I have to fuse it also? One of the sites said you should fuse it..
 
Well, I put a 2 gauge ground wire from there the battery grounds to the bolt that holds in the strut..

My LAST question is about the YELLOW wire.. I noticed that some intructions say to splice it and connect it right to the 4 guage wire I installed on the alternator, and some dont mention it.. Right now I did nothing with it, and the alternator seems to be working fine.. What should I do with it?

Also, if I do put it in with the 4 guage, do I have to fuse it also? One of the sites said you should fuse it..

I didnt read the whole thread, so apologies for missed info or redundancy.

The yellow wire is the sense wire. It has an 18 gauge fusible link near the solenoid. This wire is part of the regulator plug (noted as the A terminal) and you didnt need to touch it. But if you removed the OEM alternator harness (or disconnected the charge wires from the solenoid), you need to do something.

You need this wire to see battery voltage. You can run this wire to the solenoid or tie it into the charge cable. It's your choice. If your stock charge wires are still connected to the solenoid, simply reconnect the yellow wire as it was OEM.

Fusing is always a good idea. An 18 gauge fusible link will work. FWIW, 94-95 Stangs use a 20 amp fuse on this wire (instead of a fusible link). This might be easier for you to do (than soldering in a link).

Good luck.
 
How do I check the voltage? Where do I put the prongs of the multi-meter?

Also, the 3G seems to whine alot louder than the 2G did, is this normal?

The alt should not whine. Whining can be a sign of bad bearings. The 3G bearings are good but not as good as the 6G's.

You could just use a test light for the A terminal/yellow wire testing. For a DMM, connect the black lead to a solid ground (the engine or neg battery terminal) and connect the red lead to the wire itself. All you're really doing is making sure that the wire is connected to battery voltage. And you can almost assume it is because otherwise the alt acts really goofy. Since it takes 5 seconds to test the wire, I had mentioned doing so just so you know for sure that it's good.