Question about water temperature sending unit...

[Adam95GT]

Got some quick questions... my stock one isnt in place yet and i have an aftermarket one too.

Im out of places to put things... i was going to make an adapter for the heater hose to put one back there... and possibly get an aftermarket water neck for the stock one... is there any open in the lower intake i can use??? Im running a fox style egr with the coolant passing through the spacer... also a fox heater hard line...

Any ideas?


Ill have pics tomorrow...


In the red circle i have the return for the coolant flowing through the egr spacer:

The thing circled in green is in the orange circle in my intake...

This little guy is in the green circle:

And the blue is open...

Is all that correct or did i switch up the 2 sensors on the drivers side????

 

[revhead347]

I've worked with this a lot. You can't put it in the back of the intake, because it doesn't get any real water flow. You also have to be careful with adapters, because the probe has to sit down in the water flow. If the adapter is too tall, you'll get a false water temp reading, same as in the back of the intake. When you run your new motor, odds are you are going to have to run a high flow thermostat to keep the engine cool enough. The water will not flow enough through the heater core to get an accurate reading in the heater rail. I actually had to plug the sensor hole in the heater core rail, and move the sender down to the water outlet to get an accurate reading. The only way I could get all 3 sensors to work was as follows. The sender for my aftermarket temp gauge is on the drivers side forward part of the intake. The sensor for the computer is on the passenger side of the intake before the water outlet. I had to buy an aftermarket water outlet in order to get another bung inside of the water flow. Don't bother with the chrome or fancy aluminum aftermarket ones, they are junk, and they warp. Go down to Advance or Autozone and get a cast iron water outlet. It really doesn't add that much weight, it never warps, and it lasts a lifetime. It is only about $15, and you can mount the sender for your factory gauge in the bung on that water outlet.

Kurt

 

[Adam95GT]

for the little guy with the single post... is this the water temp sending unit... and do i have it in a port for the runner IAT???


Im confusing my self...

If someone could give me a list of the sensors and what they look like id appreciate it... i think i might have to tare my upper off... like i said i think i messed one or 2 up...

 

[revhead347]

Ok, first off I need to correct myself. I did not hook up my factory water temp gauge, because there was no place left for it to get an accurate temperature reading, and it became worthless. The sender with the single post is for the factory gauge. If you are keeping a heater core, then discard this sensor, there is no where in the intake you are going to get an accurate reading. I put my aftermarket water temp gauge in the passenger side of the intake (the orange circle). I bought an aftermarket water outlet with a bung, and put the sensor for the computer in that. I know it doesn't sound like it would work, because it doesn't get hot water until the thermostat opens, but I have never had any issues with it. It's always worked fine like that. I plugged the forward facing bung on my heater core rail, because after I installed the high flow thermostat, there was not enough water flow up there to get an accurate reading. The green circle is the hole for the IAT sensor. If you are going to keep your IAT in the cold air pipe (stock location) just plug that hole. The coolant sensor you have in there needs to go in the water outlet.

The blue and red circles you have in the back of the intake need to be plugged. The one with the connector on it is for the throttle body heater, which obviously you're not going to use. You can not put any sensors back there, because the water is stagnant in the backside there, and you can't get accurate readings.

Kurt

 

[nmcgrawj]

X2 on the pep boys/autozone water outlet

 

[Adam95GT]

Ok, first off I need to correct myself. I did not hook up my factory water temp gauge, because there was no place left for it to get an accurate temperature reading, and it became worthless. The sender with the single post is for the factory gauge. If you are keeping a heater core, then discard this sensor, there is no where in the intake you are going to get an accurate reading. I put my aftermarket water temp gauge in the passenger side of the intake (the orange circle). I bought an aftermarket water outlet with a bung, and put the sensor for the computer in that. I know it doesn't sound like it would work, because it doesn't get hot water until the thermostat opens, but I have never had any issues with it. It's always worked fine like that. I plugged the forward facing bung on my heater core rail, because after I installed the high flow thermostat, there was not enough water flow up there to get an accurate reading. The green circle is the hole for the IAT sensor. If you are going to keep your IAT in the cold air pipe (stock location) just plug that hole. The coolant sensor you have in there needs to go in the water outlet.

The blue and red circles you have in the back of the intake need to be plugged. The one with the connector on it is for the throttle body heater, which obviously you're not going to use. You can not put any sensors back there, because the water is stagnant in the backside there, and you can't get accurate readings.

Kurt

I am using the coolant flow through the spacer... i have it all plumed out already... i kinda wanted the fully functional fox set up... need the egr and cats to get through inspection.

So in the intake and the coolant passages all i need is:
ECT
Coolant temp sender
IAT

The IAT can be rewired to the lower intake? i may just use that...

The coolant temp sender is the single post i need to move... no big deal... and the ECT looks like this and has two wires correct:

Problem is i have like 7 different sensors that are all alike i have had a ton of intakes and engines pass in and out lol

i have a pointed and flat ECT and i think i have several different kinds of IAT's the black plastic one was factory on our cars correct???

The ECT on the fox style heater rail hit my fuel lines... so i pluged that hole... ill probably put the autometer in there because it will clear the fuel lines. if not ill put the autometer at the front of the intake on the pass side and move the stock little guy to the heater rail... but then i dont know what ill do with the ECT...

im wondering how i have the coolant temp sensor and something else both hooked up on the pass side... when my ect plug is left undone near the heater rail... you sure there is not something im missing...

Thanks for the help kurt

 

[Adam95GT]

i may have lied... ill have to look tomorrow here it looks like the gauge sender is in the correct place

 

[95PGTTech]

Bad news the coolant temp sender is in the runner...

Good news is there is also one in the orange circle... lol

So i need a spot for the autometer and ECT...

Would it be better to put the autometer in the stock senders location and move the stock sender to the heater rail... and kurt you said you were good with the ECT after the T-Stat?

 

[Last5.0]

Stock temp gauge sender location is circled orange.

Stock ECT (brass) sensor goes in black heater tube. If not running heater core or tubes, use reducer bushing in big hole in intake right before the water outlet.

A high flow tstat should really only be used with a high flow pump, but there shouldn't be any problems with keeping the ECT in the stock location or in the lower manifold port unless your water pump is pullied to turn really slow

To hook up aftermarket temp gauge, move stock sensor to water outlet port (drill/tap stock one or buy aftermarket one already threaded) and put aftermarket sensor where stock one was (orange circle).

ACT/IAT sensor is mounted where circled green on fox vehicles (#5 runner), but in rubber intake tube between MAF and TB on the '94/5's. If you relocate it to the lower intake like on the fox without having the EEC reprogrammed it will pull timing because it will see higher temps. If you use a twEECer or Moates you can easily make this change. If you use a custom tuned chip you will have to have it modified by your tuner.

The coolant ports/plugs in the rear on each side should not be used for a sensor. They do not see much if any fluid recirculation.

If you are using a fox style heater tube and the ECT sensor hits the fuel lines then plug that position and drill/tap right into the top of where the heater tube goes into the manifold or drill/tap into the front side so it sticks out like on a stock '94/5 coolant tube.

 

[revhead347]

Keep the IAT in the elbow, and plug the hole in the intake. It works better there. Lots of fox guys actually move it to the inlet elbow for more accurate readings. That's why Ford moved it there, because it was getting heat soaked on the intake.

I have my ECT in the water outlet, and it works fine. I know it's counter intuitive but for some reason I haven't had any problem with it. If you have any sort of high flow setup in your engine, any sensor plugged into the heater rail will be innacurate because the water flow is reduced up there. If you want to put your stock water temp sender in there, just so the gauge moves, that's not a bad idea. The important thing is to have the Autometer gauge plugged into the factory location on the forward driver's side of the intake. That is where water temperature readings are going to be most accurate.

I have no idea why Ford even put the throttle body coolant heater system in. A lot of cars are like that, and I don't understand why it's there. It's suposed to heat up the throttle body when the engine is cold. But when the engine is cold, so is the coolant, so what's the point? I don't get it. Hook it up if you want, but I can tell you it serves no purpose, other than to make your throttle body hotter, or to create another place to have an unfortunate cooling leak.

Kurt

 

[95PGTTech]

Keep the IAT in the elbow, and plug the hole in the intake. It works better there. Lots of fox guys actually move it to the inlet elbow for more accurate readings. That's why Ford moved it there, because it was getting heat soaked on the intake.

I have my ECT in the water outlet, and it works fine. I know it's counter intuitive but for some reason I haven't had any problem with it. If you have any sort of high flow setup in your engine, any sensor plugged into the heater rail will be innacurate because the water flow is reduced up there. If you want to put your stock water temp sender in there, just so the gauge moves, that's not a bad idea. The important thing is to have the Autometer gauge plugged into the factory location on the forward driver's side of the intake. That is where water temperature readings are going to be most accurate.

I have no idea why Ford even put the throttle body coolant heater system in. A lot of cars are like that, and I don't understand why it's there. It's suposed to heat up the throttle body when the engine is cold. But when the engine is cold, so is the coolant, so what's the point? I don't get it. Hook it up if you want, but I can tell you it serves no purpose, other than to make your throttle body hotter, or to create another place to have an unfortunate cooling leak.

Kurt

Its actually in order to cool down the egr flowing through it... atleast this is what i read... the cold TB blade sticking stuff was just some kind of myth.

-Adam95gt


Thanks for the help again man...

 

[HISSIN50]

The EGR cooling is correct. When the EGR situation changed (93 Cobras, 94-95's GT's/Cobras, etc), the coolant lines disappeared. If the lines were for de-icing, they would have remained (and an exhaust heat riser would have warmed things much quicker).

I'd try to keep the ECT in the stock area, as some have indicated.