Questions about timing cover, water pump and non-efi intake install

Busted07

I need my gorilla to be about an inch longer.
Nov 15, 2005
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Tomorrow i plan on installing my Edelbrok air gap (non-efi) intake.

Some friends came over and helped me install the timing chain, timing cover and water pump, but i have a few questions before i install the intake.

-The guy that put the timing cover on didnt use any sealant. He just used the gasket. Should i take it off and seal it?

-He didnt use sealant on the water pump either, just a gasket. should i take it off and seal that?

-If i do need to take them off and seal them, what are the chances ill tear up my new oil pan gasket?

and lastly, do you guys recommend using the front and rear intake gaskets, or silicone instead? Im getting the FelPro 1250 gasket set that comes with the front and rear seals, but ive heard some people dont use them.

I want to be able to stab this motor soon if possible, without having a bunch of leaks and have to dissasemble everything. thanks in advance!!!
 
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gaskets

I had no problems just using gaskets on the timing cover and waterpump. On the intake I used the gaskets on the front and rear, but also put sealant in the corners where it meets the heads. It doesn't leak at all. If your worried about the oil pan gasket, they sell just the two small gasket pieces for both sides of the pan that meet the timing cover. So you don't have to pull the pan. I used sealant on the those two pieces. Good luck.
 
I had no problems just using gaskets on the timing cover and waterpump. On the intake I used the gaskets on the front and rear, but also put sealant in the corners where it meets the heads. It doesn't leak at all. If your worried about the oil pan gasket, they sell just the two small gasket pieces for both sides of the pan that meet the timing cover. So you don't have to pull the pan. I used sealant on the those two pieces. Good luck.


The oil pan gasket i have is a 1 piece that i got when i ordered a bunch of stuff from TFS. Ill probably change it out whenever i have to pull the pan again, but as long as just the gaskets are fine, ill leave it alone for now.
 
I try to use rubber if I can. I used cork on my last car and I was spraying more juice than Paul Walker.


:lol:

Well i guess it wont be that hard to remove if they dont work for some reason. I gotta run to advance and pick up my felpro 1250's they are supposed to be holding for me.
 
Ive heard that from alot of people... any reasoning behind it? i mean, do they just fail quickly... or???

I,m not sure why. It could be that its just easier, and as good, if not better than using the gaskets. When I'm told how to do something by someone that does this stuff for a living I normally listen. Well most of the time.:D
 
Ford used the gaskets when they assembled it


Well i got the gaskets, got home and did some reading. According to the Edelbrock manifold i have, it says "DO NOT USE END GASKETS ON THIS MANIFOLD, Apply a 1/4 bead of BLACK RTV at each end for sealing purposes".

But something i forgot, i have to trim the damn gasket. So i didnt get to put the intake on today. I did finish the timing cover and water pump, and have my roll cage just about ready to be welded in. So the day wasnt a total loss :nice:
 
Well i got the gaskets, got home and did some reading. According to the Edelbrock manifold i have, it says "DO NOT USE END GASKETS ON THIS MANIFOLD, Apply a 1/4 bead of BLACK RTV at each end for sealing purposes".

The reason is, when you get into aftermarket manifolds, aftermarket or machined heads, etc. the thickness of the gap from the bottom of the intake to the block changes which alot of times makes those end gaskets useless. A bead of RTV works the best even on stockers.