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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Ready to Rust-Proof my Interior

  • Thread starter Thread starter voodooRunner
  • Start date Start date Nov 28, 2009
V

voodooRunner

New Member
Oct 21, 2009
39
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0
Nov 28, 2009
#1
  • Nov 28, 2009
  • #1
I have pretty much stripped out the interior of my car to deal with some rust issues. I know that welding in some patches is necessary down the road, but I currently don't have the equipment nor the skill to tackle this 'properly', so I settled on getting PRE, Rust converter, and Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood for a solid 1yr temp fix.

I was planning on painting the entire interior/trunk area with 2 coats of Converter, then 2 coats of encapsulator. But I'm not sure how to handle the NON-rusted areas.
Should I sand/scuff Everything? (not to bare metal, I know)
Should I use Converter over seemingly good metal/paint anyway?
Or just the Encapsulator on the those areas?

What have you found to work best in your experiences?

 
S

sparx

Member
Sep 2, 2009
369
1
19
Nov 28, 2009
#2
  • Nov 28, 2009
  • #2
Just skuff the non rusty areas with a purple Scotch pad.

And don't use POR15.
sparx
 
V

voodooRunner

New Member
Oct 21, 2009
39
0
0
Nov 29, 2009
#3
  • Nov 29, 2009
  • #3
Thanks, I will give the Scotchpad a try.

I already have all the Eastwood products I mentioned. Expensive, but supposedly top-quality, which is why I want to make sure I don't screw up my prep-work and application.
 
B

bullittmustang

New Member
Nov 14, 2009
6
0
1
Nov 29, 2009
#4
  • Nov 29, 2009
  • #4
sparx said:
Just skuff the non rusty areas with a purple Scotch pad.

And don't use POR15.
sparx
Click to expand...
I just used POR 15 on my truck tail gate,is there a problem with it besides it being a rip-off.What do you recommend?
 
S

sparx

Member
Sep 2, 2009
369
1
19
Nov 29, 2009
#5
  • Nov 29, 2009
  • #5
I had problems with it not drying and then peeling. It was a pain to remove from my entire engine compartment, but I did get rid of all of it.

The POR people told me the drying time in dry climates is very long. Yeah, very long- like forever.

sparx
 
V

voodooRunner

New Member
Oct 21, 2009
39
0
0
Dec 1, 2009
#6
  • Dec 1, 2009
  • #6
I guess I wasn't as ready as I thought. I still have to remove all the old sealer, which I'm learning is imperative for the process, since it's all rotted, crumbly, and apparently hiding rust along all the seams.

And I also determined that the current heater core had leaked at some point. I'm not sure what gave it away--the bypass setup, incorrect sealer (clear, silicone?) along the passenger floorpan, or the fact that the floorpan is all discolored and possibly repainted.

Also, can anybody tell me or post a pic of the proper sealing locations in the fastback trunk? Couldn't find in the shop manual.
 
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