^^I respectfully disagree. I've seen plenty of control arm failures over the years. And that's a real problem.
I've done it on my back. Wasn't a huge deal. In fact i took the entire rear axle off on my back.
You'll need 6 jackstands. 4 for the car under the 4 corners of the main passenger area, and then 2 for the axle itself. Then i used a jack to help position and hold the axle.
Wasn't too difficult. I even did my AOD-to-T5 conversion on my back with the car on jackstands...alone...without a transmission jack.
Innovation is key
You'll need 6 jackstands. 4 for the car under the 4 corners of the main passenger area, and then 2 for the axle itself. Then i used a jack to help position and hold the axle.
Wasn't too difficult. I even did my AOD-to-T5 conversion on my back with the car on jackstands...alone...without a transmission jack.
Innovation is key
I must clarify, the MM UCA is rubber/ urethane. The MM HD LCA is urethane/spherical.
Not going to get into which brand other than to say I run MM lower control arms with stock uppers with rubber bushings into the 11's on 2 cars. You want some deflection in the uppers on a street car. Do not getlower or upper arms with poly bushings on both ends as they cause binding and tear up torque boxes.
If you plan on replacing worn upper control arm bushings, spend the $30 and get the MM bushing removal tool. Buy new control arm bolts. While the old arms are out, inspect your torque boxes for damage and repair them before replacing the arms. If they are intact, I'd hit them up with a good primer and rustoleum.
If you plan on replacing worn upper control arm bushings, spend the $30 and get the MM bushing removal tool. Buy new control arm bolts. While the old arms are out, inspect your torque boxes for damage and repair them before replacing the arms. If they are intact, I'd hit them up with a good primer and rustoleum.
So far so good. I found a little time to work on it this evening. I decided to do both uppers and lowers. I've got one side done. So far, no seized bolts. However, the rear bolt for the passenger side lower is corroded and the shank is pitted and narrowed significantly. That bolt will be replaced. The rubber bushings in the rear uppers look good so they are being left in. The rest of the bushings are eurothane.
While it's not 100% necessary I recomend that you do. Especially considering you're already under there and upgrading. Good foundation for added piece of mind. I put it off in my car and haven't had any issues but have purchased them to do this winter/spring.
Exactly what @A5literMan said. Not necessary, but totally recommended- especially since you're already under there installing the arms. The 10% discount code for Stangnet is Forum15.
With the spongey stock control arms gone and the ridgid aftermarket ones in place, it's reasonable to think that the connection points at the body will be getting more stress. After all, it's the weak stock control arms that absorb the shock and abuse of hard shifting and launching.
Beefing up the tq boxes is surely a good idea.
Beefing up the tq boxes is surely a good idea.
Did you get em in? On a scale of horrible to not too bad how was it? How many jack stands did you use?
does that code change or can I put it in my back pocket?