REBUILDING BLOWN MOTOR

doubleomustang · Feb 27, 2008

so i got a suicide tune from the dyno that tuned my mustang. after having some tests run on the car i found that i have valve damage and low compression on some cylinders. so im planning on pulling the motor and having it built from the bottom up. so what i need to know is what internals i need. who makes the best stuff. pistons rods crank (can i use mine and just have it balanced) any head modification, cams, bore the engine. i need all the ideas i can get. im looking to make at least 500 on the new setup. The car is supercharged btw wit ha vortech v2 sq blower. also will i need a different fuel pump than the focus pump. i just bought 42#injectors, will those work. will my AODE tranny hold up under that much power. if not can i build that tranny or does this require me to completely change it out?
Thanks

CENTENNIALSTANG · Feb 27, 2008

MMR or MPH

doubleomustang · Feb 27, 2008

CENTENNIALSTANG said:
MMR or MPH

thats not exactly what im asking for. i know there are people on this site that know what internals i need for this engine. im not towing the car to where ever these shops are located because i dont believe that they are anywhere near me and im sure that i can get the engine built cheaper here.

BennyBlown2v · Feb 27, 2008

MPH given your location, they are about 3hrs away from you and are easily one of if not the most reputable modular mustang shop in the nation.

CENTENNIALSTANG · Feb 27, 2008

I think MMR will send the short block to you Get the MMR 900 that will hold anything you throw at it. I would get PP heads, blower grind cams. Fuel system A1000 with a return line.

Cobra Crank
Manley H beam Rods
I think they use manley pistons to
ARP Rod bolts
2800

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/

doubleomustang · Feb 27, 2008

BennyBlown2v said:
MPH given your location, they are about 3hrs away from you and are easily one of if not the most reputable modular mustang shop in the nation.

if im right MPH is located in texas right? thats way more than 3 hours from me and like a said before i can have it done way cheaper right here at home i just need to know which internals are best.

CENTENNIALSTANG · Feb 27, 2008

BennyBlown2v said:
MPH given your location, they are about 3hrs away from you and are easily one of if not the most reputable modular mustang shop in the nation.

Dude MPH is 3hrs away i would go there if i had a choice. I think you can get a trailer for 50 bucks a day. TOW IT

Cartersville, Ga 30120

bdcardinal · Feb 27, 2008

first thing you want to do is a complete teardown to see what is reusable. if there is valve damage, there could be irrepairable damage to the heads. there could also be block damage.

SilverBullet00 · Feb 28, 2008

MPH is in GA, not TX. If its only 3 hours away you can order their 800hp short block and go pick it up!

doubleomustang · Feb 28, 2008

ok well im going to be building the engine here. i cant afford 3k for just the bottom end. i still have to have the entire top end reworked. i need to know what pistons and rods to use. do i want dished or flat tops for a supercharger. what cam will i need for a supercharger. all of this is in order to make at least 500hp. thats my goal. so what do i need to accomplish this and please dont tell me to buy the engine or take it to one of these shops...those arent even options for me.

darkside03gt · Feb 28, 2008

you need dished pistons for a supercharger. get some quality h-beam rods from either manley scat or eagle. you can use the stock crank up to about 600hp. with a good set of ported heads and some stage 1 or 2 blower cams you will see 500 hp with ease

Gearbanger 101 · Feb 28, 2008

I went with Manley H-Beam rods and Diamond pistons for my set up. Don't worry about a steel crank. It's overkill for all but the most serious horsepower levels. You will need to have your stock on rebalanced to match the new weights of the rods and pistons though, assuming it wasn't damaged when your bottom end went. Otherwise, you'll need to buy an new one....in which case you can have it pre-balanced to the new rods and pistons.

I bought all of my bottom end stuff here. http://www.modularperformance.com/

And air to air intercooler will also help you reach your goal much safer and easier, so better budget for that too.

darkside03gt · Feb 28, 2008

+1 gearbanger. if you do need a new block dont sweat it they are CHEAP ive seen them go for as little at $100 on ebay

darkside03gt · Feb 28, 2008

and i've seen manly h-beams go for as little as $500 with the arp bolt upgrade

doubleomustang · Feb 28, 2008

thank you thats exactly what i was wanting to know. now my other questions are will the 42# injectors and focus fuel pump support the 500 hp. will i need any other things for the car to make the 500 mark and will my tranny be able to hold that much power. if not can i build that with better parts or do i need an entire new tranny. im running an auto

darkside03gt · Feb 28, 2008

the tranny i'm not sure about. but your injecters should be fine but i dont think the single focus pump can keep up

Gearbanger 101 · Feb 28, 2008

The Focus Fuel pump will be iffy and the 42's should take you to right around 80-85% BSFR, which is about as high as you'll want to run them. Bigger might be better in this case, but I'm pretty confident that the 42's will hold out.

The Transmission should hold up well as long as you're not constantly pushing the envelope. Your car actually utilizes a 4R70W, not an AOD(E) and since you’re running a New Edge car the valve body and many internal parts have been improved over the earlier model years before it. Basically, it's as good a unit as you’ll get from the factory. You'll also be able to tighten up your shifts and play with your shift points with an XCal 2 (assuming that's what you'll be using to tune the car for the blower) and a transmission cooler will be an absolute must for transmission longevity.

All that being said, if you're pulling the engine and trans as it is, you'd be a fool not to install a decent triple disk, high stall torque converter while you're at it (something built by a reputable company like PI, Circle D, etc). Go for something that stalls in the 3,600-3,800 range (you'll be wasting your time otherwise). That'll knock an easy 3-5 tenth’s off of your times alone and make your car feel much livelier on the street. Don't be afraid of a little stall speed, you'll be used to it after about 15-minutes worth of driving and won't know how you drove your car without it afterwards! While you’re on it, if you haven’t already done so, swap out your rear end gears to something in the 3.73-4.10 range to compliment the converter and you’ll feel like you’re driving a whole different car!

The above driveline formula, combined with your projected 500rwhp levels is a recipe for an easy low 11-second ride that’ll still maintain great street manners.

CobraRed_96_GT · Feb 29, 2008

Gearbanger's right on about the Torque Converter matter, although I'd suggest Circle D or DirtyDogg - and tripple disc not necessarily required.

Gearbanger 101 · Feb 29, 2008

CobraRed_96_GT said:
Gearbanger's right on about the Torque Converter matter, although I'd suggest Circle D or DirtyDogg - and tripple disc not necessarily required.

I wouldn't chance a single disk with 500hp on tap!

doubleomustang · Feb 29, 2008

ok so if the fuel pump wont hold out are there any suggestions on what pump to use. is there a way to test if the pump will work or not. will my fuel lines and rails be able to flow enough fuel for that much HP. what exactly does the stall converter do and what does that stall speed have to do with it. im already running richmond 3.73 gears so there wont be any problem there.

REBUILDING BLOWN MOTOR

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Member

tree hugger

New Member

New Member

Member

Straight Outta Locash

Member

Member

New Member

Member

Straight Outta Locash

Active Member

Straight Outta Locash

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency