Removing seized ignition lock cylinder

You could temporarily insulate that chime ground-wire if you desire. Be sure the chime is not draining your battery.

You could check current-draw and see if something is draining your battery down. This is where I'd start - this will allow you to narrow down the source of the drain.

I can't think of any wires in the switch that go to the charging circuit. There are a handful of battery power sources however.

will_95gt said:

Although this thread has turned out to be me talking to myself

Click to expand...

I've noticed this happening a lot around here as of late. It's like the 94/95 section has gone to sleep or something. WAKE up guys, I know gas is 4 bucks a gallon, but come on... we're in this for the long haul!

Turn off every accessory and light on the car. Don't forget the interior light and underhood light. You might want to start off using a test light but the procedure is the same for a test light or meter (if you have a huge draw, you can blow the fuse inside the meter - most are only rated for a small amount of current, often 10 Amps). Thus starting with a test light is a good idea. Once you get the test light down to a light glow (not its full illumination), you can use the meter instead.

For the light, disconnect the negative battery cable and put the test light in-series between the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative battery post. If the light is glowing, you have a draw.


For a meter: You'll set your meter to the amperage scale. You'll probably need to re-pin the red lead to the other slot. Put the meter in-series between the disconnected negative battery cable and negative battery post.

Here's a picture/link of the meter that Saleen0679 was nice enough to post some time ago (just use a test light instead if starting off with the light):

Battery Service

So you don't feel alone with the number 8 draw:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/837324-battery-drain-tested-no-drop-pulling-fuses.html

I don't know if anyone has pulled the plug on the keyless module to see what it draws.

For the chime's input ground wire, you could just insulate it up and secure it behind the dash. If it's not grounded, the chime should not come on (because of the key being off but the lights on, etc).