Engine Replacing upper/lower intake, anything else?

[91GTstroked]

Hey everyone,

It's winter storage time here in Minnesota. I can't stand how bad the engine bay looks on this "low mileage" 90 7 up convertible....

Verified mileage on Carfax and auto check does show it's correct. Around 36k original miles. The problem is, 6 plus owners came from New York.

The engine parts show a lot of corrosion. I plan on working on it over the winter. I have a spare upper and lower intake manifold that's going to get powder coated. The upper I planned on matching the valve covers.

New remanufactured injectors, hoses, heater core tube, thermostat, ect.

I was thinking about adding a accufab 65mm throttle body if it works with the stock MAF.

I may also get some brackets powder coated.

Anything else I should look for?

I'll keep this thread updated as I make progress.


Edit: I even found some old mouse turds...car runs good otherwise.

 

[2000xp8]

I'm not fully understanding what you are shooting for here.
If it's a excellent condition stock factory original look, don't mess with finishes.

An accufab will look out of place in that engine bay for sure and provide no performance gain.

It only takes a few minor changes to make an engine bay not look original.
I certainly would not use those valve covers nor would i paint the intake to match them.
I'd just clean up what you have as well as possible and replicate the factory look.

I think the key for this look is making it look like nobody touched it.

 

[91GTstroked]

I'm not fully understanding what you are shooting for here.
If it's a excellent condition stock factory original look, don't mess with finishes.

An accufab will look out of place in that engine bay for sure and provide no performance gain.

It only takes a few minor changes to make an engine bay not look original.
I certainly would not use those valve covers nor would i paint the intake to match them.
I'd just clean up what you have as well as possible and replicate the factory look.

I think the key for this look is making it look like nobody touched it.

I've thought about that as well. I can definitely put the valve covers on my modded notch or just sell them. But it is hideous everywhere.

I mean the valve covers have surface rust on them. I hate it. How am I suppose to remove that surface rust?

I have two spare original lower intakes and one spare upper. How do I effectively clean inside and outside?

 

[2000xp8]

Either you are bad at pics or that's not exactly "Hideous everywhere", lol.
It may not be up to your standard, but i bet there are quite a few guys around here that would take that engine bay over theirs.

It's probably going to take some research for each type of surface you need to treat based on how they were done in the factory.
I'm by no means a restoration expert, but there are ways to get rid of surface rust, assuming it's just surface rust.
There are also hundreds of stock intakes floating around, maybe just find the best one and swap it in.

I think you just need to take one part at a time. It could be slow and time consuming, but with a car that low in mileage, i think it could be worth it.

 

[91GTstroked]

Either you are bad at pics or that's not exactly "Hideous everywhere", lol.
It may not be up to your standard, but i bet there are quite a few guys around here that would take that engine bay over theirs.

It's probably going to take some research for each type of surface you need to treat based on how they were done in the factory.
I'm by no means a restoration expert, but there are ways to get rid of surface rust, assuming it's just surface rust.
There are also hundreds of stock intakes floating around, maybe just find the best one and swap it in.

I think you just need to take one part at a time. It could be slow and time consuming, but with a car that low in mileage, i think it could be worth it.

Did you look at the pictures LoL. I can work on it all winter. So roughly 5 months. It's in the way of my other mustangs, so it would have to be the first one out of the shop.

 

[91GTstroked]

And I have a 93 reef blue hatch with 27k original miles which only has a catback exhaust and CD player. I have original radio. That car is one I'll leave alone.

The convertible paint is also kinda rough. Plus it has a AOD which no one likes. The steering is nice and tight though. And a previous owner did a rear disc brake conversion on it. This summer I replaced the calipers, rotors and pads. It also has aftermarket exhaust from headers to back. So it's not really all original.

 

[nickyb]

It's your car, change whatever you want, keep the original parts , go enjoy it and if and when you can let it go you can put it back to how it was.
Warning I am not Purist, my beliefs are radical.......

 

[AeroCoupe]

The injectors can be removed and taken to have ultrasonically cleaned which will clean the outside as well and they will look brand new.
The injector rails have some surface rust on them but I would think they would clean up with some 0000 steel wool and some WD40. Worst case is see what it would cost to get them rechromed.
Pull the valve covers and have them hot tanked, wash with soapy water (Dawn) & let dry, wipe them down with brake cleaner & let dry, and then shoot them with the appropriate color of gray.
Paint on the block and heads - pretty sure the factory color was grey and then in some where in late 1992 or early 1993 when they quit painting them from the factory altogether.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I wouldn’t bother with an Accufab TB on a stock intake manifold. The restriction is the lower. Nothing to gain performance wise and in hand the Accufab is a jewel that will look out of place.

You’d be surprised what elbow grease, new fasteners and some paint/powdercoat can do.

 

[91GTstroked]

I wouldn’t bother with an Accufab TB on a stock intake manifold. The restriction is the lower. Nothing to gain performance wise and in hand the Accufab is a jewel that will look out of place.

You’d be surprised what elbow grease, new fasteners and some paint/powdercoat can do.

This is my plan. I'm trying to find a similar powder coating color that will match closely to the stock manifold color.

Also I found a pretty clean stock upper intake manifold, but might be an 86 HO unit. It comes with the stock throttle body as well. Is there much difference from the 87-93 manifolds?

 

[Mustang5L5]

The E6SE intake is not considered a HO intake. The difference is the inlet after the throttle body. It's a little narrower. This intake also came on later 5.0 non-HP engines. 1986 throttle body would be smaller as well. I would steer clear


HO intakes were 87-93. The casting part numbers would be E7ZE, E8ZE and F0ZE,

 

[91GTstroked]

The E6SE intake is not considered a HO intake. The difference is the inlet after the throttle body. It's a little narrower. This intake also came on later 5.0 non-HP engines. 1986 throttle body would be smaller as well. I would steer clear


HO intakes were 87-93. The casting part numbers would be E7ZE, E8ZE and F0ZE,

Appreciate the information! Looks like my spare is a correct one for my setup. I'll have these powder coated and leave my original one.

 

[GTOreturns]

Hey everyone,

It's winter storage time here in Minnesota. I can't stand how bad the engine bay looks on this "low mileage" 90 7 up convertible....

Verified mileage on Carfax and auto check does show it's correct. Around 36k original miles. The problem is, 6 plus owners came from New York.

The engine parts show a lot of corrosion. I plan on working on it over the winter. I have a spare upper and lower intake manifold that's going to get powder coated. The upper I planned on matching the valve covers.

New remanufactured injectors, hoses, heater core tube, thermostat, ect.

I was thinking about adding a accufab 65mm throttle body if it works with the stock MAF.

I may also get some brackets powder coated.

Anything else I should look for?

I'll keep this thread updated as I make progress.


Edit: I even found some old mouse turds...car runs good otherwise.

A 70MM Accufab will do you justice!! I had a 93LX with a ported out stock intake, (T-Moss) 70MM Accufab, AOD with 2800 stall converter, 3.73 gears that ran a 13.8.

 

[91GTstroked]

A 70MM Accufab will do you justice!! I had a 93LX with a ported out stock intake, (T-Moss) 70MM Accufab, AOD with 2800 stall converter, 3.73 gears that ran a 13.8.

I was pondering just a 65mm. But with a upgraded version throttle body, I would need a bigger MAF.

 

[AeroCoupe]

If you change the cylinder heads and the cam and the upper & lower intake I would tell you to get a bigger mass air meter as now you are going to move more air in and out of the motor.

Do you have to? No but that would leave hp on the table. How much depends on the combo. This is where understanding how much air a motor is going to require helps you size the MAF and throttle body.

Just looking at the CFM the motor can move is RPM x displacement (Cubic Inches) / 3,456 so for a stock 302:

(6,000 rpm x 302 cubic inches) / 3456 = 529.514 cfm

What you want to find out is what size MAF can move that much air. Here is where is gets all kinds of goofy. The ECU is reading lb/min from 0-5V so you need to convert the maximum CFM of the motor to lb/min of air. I noodled around and most just use CFM x 0.070 to get lb/min. Otherwise you have to use the "Ideal Gas Law" PV=nRT.

So 529.514 CFM x 0.070 = 37.066 lb/min

Finding mas flow rate data on MAF's is a pain in the rear but this is what I came up with:

55mm = 31.5 lb/min (stock Fox)
70mm = 39.0 lb/min (93 Cobra)
80mm = 47.5 lb/min (2000 GT)
90mm = 62 lb/min (Lightning)

So in theory all you would need for the above example is the 70mm MAF off of a 1993 Cobra.

The other thing you want to remember is that you do not want to "peg" the meter which is getting up to the 5.0V range. Its the same thing as running your injectors at 100% duty. Low rpm driveability suffers.

My tuner told me that my 331 was about out of air with the 80mm MAF I have on the car but that it was not pegging the meter. He made it clear that if I go to a solid roller and move about 6500 rpm that I would have to move to a 90mm MAF...and a DART block so that is not happening anytime soon.

Please use this only as reference material as I am not 100% confident in the calc to take CFM to lb/min (just the 0.070 part) nor am I 100% on the mass flow rates on the MAF's. I would really like to know what Ford had them at but this is the best I could do in the time I was willing to put into all of this.