Roller idler arm questions for those that installed one.

dodgestang · Oct 15, 2005

So now...here's my problem...

The fully assembled roller idler arm with all the parts...is too long on the stud that holds the idler...I can't put a nut on it...there is only 1 maybe 1.5 threads visible. I though it might need to squish down so I tried that without the washer on it...and there was not squishing down.

So I bolted it all together without the grease fitting peice. I stuffed it full of good grease and tightened it down

Instructions say 20-30 ft/lbs.

So I made it reltaively tight...since my t-wrench starts at 50 I can't confirm how tight...but its tight...and I just barely got the cotter pin in.

So the question now it...yes when its in vise I turns with moderate effort. But I can't turn it when its not in the vise just by holding on to the mounting bracket. How 'loose' aka 'smooth' is this suppose to be? Yes it turns easier than it did with the bushing....just worried that I have somehow managed to screw something up. ( And yes I just realized it is together upside down, but regardless think it would be ok without the grease fitting? it turns out there are multiple thickness idler arms)

Think it will be ok?

Opentracker · Oct 15, 2005

The thick washer with the zerk fitting has a shoulder on it to help hold the bearing in place. It should be in there IMO and the arm should move smooth. You could try using just half of a cotter pin so you can back the nut off a bit. I got 3 1/4" for the shaft of the idler arm bracket. From the sholder the top bearing rides on, to the end of the shaft. Your shaft may not be long enouph! Can I say that?

John

dodgestang · Oct 15, 2005

Opentracker said:
The thick washer with the zerk fitting has a shoulder on it to help hold the bearing in place. It should be in there IMO and the arm should move smooth. You could try using just half of a cotter pin so you can back the nut off a bit. I got 3 1/4" for the shaft of the idler arm bracket. From the sholder the top bearing rides on, to the end of the shaft. Your shaft may not be long enouph! Can I say that?

John

Crud.

Well....looks like I have to dig out that old box and see if I can find the original idler arm....does the ball joint that attaches to the drag link generally wear? I'm sure I can find the old unit (and then will have another pair of arms and perches for you too) I just have to move everything in the garage to get to it. Off course with my luck, it will have been a replacement part too with the larger peice.

The reason I though it might work, is the upper bearing doesn't have a full shaft to sit on either. gee....can I say that too?

latamud · Oct 15, 2005

Nick,

If you over tighten the set it will bind the ballbearings and they will wear faster. It might wear a groove into the race. I installed the kit with the idler mounted in the car. I tightened the kit to where there was no play but not blue torque. I would think you might want to be able to move it with it out of the vise, but try installing it with the weight of the car off the ground and turn the steering wheel. If it feels too tight get down there and back it off a bit. I know your cotter pin is at the edge.
Here is another suggestion if you feel it might help. Take the idler arm and shave 1/4 inch off the bottom of the tube to let more threads of the idler bracket show. I woldn't suggest doing that on the top of the tub because it sets the mounting height where it seats on the bracket. That'll give you 1/4 more threads to plat with on the bracket. Maybe even allow you to use the grease fitting. And maybe shave some of the grease ring on the flat side.

dodgestang · Oct 15, 2005

Follow up too.

I have:

idler bracket
bearing
idler cap
idler arm
idler cap
bearing
zerk fitting
small rubber peice
large flat washer.

Your picture looks like you ommitted the the small rubber and the large flat washer...is it just angle? Cause our arms are the same, you don't have the short arm (at least it doesn't look like it)

dodgestang · Oct 15, 2005

latamud said:
Take the idler arm and shave 1/8 inch off the top of the tube and the bottom. That'll give you 1/4 more threads to plat with on the bracket. Maybe even allow you to use the grease fitting. And maybe shave some of the grease ring on the flat side.

I thought about this, but there is really no way for me to do that with the tools I have and confirm that I will have a flat (no angled) surface when finished...any tips on doing something like this?

Opentracker · Oct 15, 2005

The ball joint end doesn't wear much. That arm looks like a good one, same as mine if you look close. Latamud is right, it will work like it is if you keep an eye on it. You could also grind the nut down till it's about half as thick.

John

Opentracker · Oct 15, 2005

dodgestang said:
Follow up too.

I have:

idler bracket
bearing
idler cap
idler arm
idler cap
bearing
zerk fitting
small rubber peice
large flat washer.

Your picture looks like you ommitted the the small rubber and the large flat washer...is it just angle? Cause our arms are the same, you don't have the short arm (at least it doesn't look like it)

The washer and rubber thingee are there. It's a poor photo.

John

dodgestang · Oct 15, 2005

Opentracker said:
The washer and rubber thingee are there. It's a poor photo.

John

darnit.

Nothing is ever easy.

Thanks for the help.

I might give my cut off wheel a whirl tommorrow to see if I can invent some room. If that doesn't work, I'll have to dig out the older arm....that doesn't look as good as this one which is only 3 yrs old.

Opentracker · Oct 15, 2005

dodgestang said:
darnit.

Nothing is ever easy.

Is your shaft 3 1/4" long or shorter?

The top bracket is a '65-'66 the bottom is a 67-up.

John

dodgestang · Oct 15, 2005

Opentracker said:
Is your shaft 3 1/4" long or shorter?

While I don't normally admit these kind of things...its only 3 inches long.

And it also doesn't appear to have as many threads....I wonder if a PO cut it down or something. which would we really weird.

Opentracker · Oct 15, 2005

Well, all you need is another bracket. I have some if you need one.

John

dodgestang · Oct 15, 2005

I'm paying for this one....what's the paypal address?

Opentracker · Oct 15, 2005

dodgestang said:
I'm paying for this one....what's the paypal address?

Sorry Nick, all you get are free parts from ORP. I'll have it in the mail on Monday.

John

dodgestang · Oct 15, 2005

jeesh. I'll send you something don't you worry...I know where you live.

Thanks John.

Opentracker · Oct 15, 2005

dodgestang said:
jeesh. I'll send you something don't you worry...I know where you live.

Thanks John.

Your welcome Nick. I'd like to help out the 67-up guys get one going. Try and find me an idler arm from a 67-up car. I have a few kits that may work, then at least they will have the part #, sizes and some photos.

John

bnickel · Oct 16, 2005

Nick, i think you just need a new shaft. but seriously i really think your shaft is too short, if you can find the original unit see if the shaft is any longer. good luck

steel1212 · Oct 16, 2005

dodgestang said:
While I don't normally admit these kind of things...its only 3 inches long.

I'm glad where all friends here or this thread would really look weird

bnickel · Oct 16, 2005

alright who's holding Nick's shaft now

Opentracker · Oct 16, 2005

Though they are the same length to the end of the threads, the cotter pin hole placement is different from the 65-66 bracket to the 67-up. I didn't know that till now. The 67-up bracket is the one to use with this type of idler arm and this type of roller kit.

John

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