Engine running rich

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I’ve read that having the mass air sensor that I have with a 70mm housing can give you incorrect readings because the stock housing was 55mm. And a fix to this is to run the FTVF-12b579-A2A sensor. Have you ever heard this?
 
I put a MAF sensor from a 94-95 Mustang and installed it into a 94-95 T-Bird 70mm housing. It bolted right up and works great. Both cars used a 70mm housing but the sensor itself is different.

Not having a carbon canister can increase fuel vapor smell as well because your fuel tank is venting to atmosphere now.
 
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
 
Charcoal canister needs to be installed, the fuel system is a closed system by design. Also no cats are known for stinking exhaust but the dark plugs tell a story too. Swap in some fresh plugs, nothing special just regular copper plugs work very well.
from the pics and the list I posted you have what appears to be a stock maf and sensor.
 
When you stated you got s code 11, did you perform the test completely?

You should get three code 11s.

KOEO and CM are done with the engine off. These are your instant and stored codes.

Then start the engine and let it run the engine running codes. Should get a code 11 there as well.


I only ask because sometimes guys pull codes like obd2 where you run them engine off and only expect one group of codes.
 
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MAP sensor must be reconfigured.
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Also...factory air box has been removed & replaced with a filter mounted directly to the MAF.
Now, you're feeding the engine hot air instead of cold air.
So-called cold air kits cause other problems.
 
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To add to the above post, placing the filter on the end of the maf may effect the airflow through it causing erratic readings. Best thing to do is replace it with a stock air box or ad a pipe that puts the filter inside the fender cavity.
 
I tried pulling the codes while the engine was running but never got any readings, not even a code 11, I’ll try it again. The MAP sensor is already left open to atmosphere. I do have a new intake ordered to move the filter to the inner fender well.
 
Also my coolant temp takes forever to warm up and I have a hard time keeping the temp in the normal operating temp range. I assume my fuel issue is related to this because the car is always thinking it running cold. I’ve installed a 190 degree thermostat and it has a 2” aluminum radiator with an electric fan that comes on at 215F. The ECT sensor and the temperature sensor for the gauge are both new.
 
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