Sanity check

[Jester67]

I am in the process of upgrading my suspension on my car and was looking for a sanity check of sorts.
Here is the list
GW upper control arms
New stock lowers with rubber bushing
1” sway bar with graphite poly bushings
New tie rods see other thread
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthre...644#post4681644
GW strut rod bushing “or should I go with one of the aftermarket ones strut rods”
Graphite poly rag joint
New graphite poly spring seat do I need poly here “ use old parts to try opentracks design”
Moog idler arm
Progressive springs
Poly spring bushing
4.5 leaf mid eye rear springs graphite poly front and rear
Heaver shackles
KYB shocks all around
16X8 rims

Have I left any thing out, should I change something? Any input will be appreciated.

 

[Jester67]

No thoughts?

 

[streetgrande69]

No thoughts?

sure, i got a few, go with 17" wheels

Here is the list
GW upper control arms........why? what advantage are you going for by using these?

New stock lowers with rubber bushing do the opentracker spericical mod

1” sway bar with graphite poly bushings sounds good

New tie rods see other thread go with stock unless you are currently experiacning and have a home means of measuring bump-steer

GW strut rod bushing “or should I go with one of the aftermarket ones strut rods” use the street or track units(much better customer support!)

Graphite poly rag joint Ok
New graphite poly spring seat do I need poly here “ use old parts to try opentracks design”
Moog idler arm ok
Progressive springs ok
Poly spring bushing ok
4.5 leaf mid eye rear springs graphite poly front and rear ok
Heaver shackles ok
KYB shocks all around id go with the edelbrock eas, but thats just me
16X8 rims go for 17 x8s on all 4

Have I left any thing out, should I change something? Any input will be appreciated.

 

[Jester67]

Streetgrande69
Thanks for the input anyone else?

 

[Snail50]

I also recommend 17x8" wheels. They will help you clear a wider variety of disc brakes. For instance, 16" TTIIs will not clear the Baer brake setup I have; 17" is the minimum for clearance.

Does your 67 have a rag joint? If so, then it must have been built late in the model year, because if I'm not mistaken, early to mid-year 67s don't have rag joints.

 

[bnickel]

i think sg69 nailed pretty much everything on the head there, although i would wait until absolutely everything else is done before deciding on tie-rods until you have the rest of the suspension done, that way if you do find you have bumpsteer you can add the beartrackers at that time, this is provided your current tie-rods are in decent shape, alternately pro-motorsports has a bumpsteer kit that uses the stock tie-rods and also moves the mouting point of the tie-rod to a better location, which is good if you are using granada spindles.

 

[Jester67]

sure, i got a few, go with 17" wheels

Here is the list
1 GW upper control arms........why? what advantage are you going for by using these?

2 New stock lowers with rubber bushing do the opentracker spericical mod

3 1” sway bar with graphite poly bushings sounds good

4 New tie rods see other thread go with stock unless you are currently experiacning and have a home means of measuring bump-steer


5 GW strut rod bushing “or should I go with one of the aftermarket ones strut rods” use the street or track units(much better customer support!)

6 Graphite poly rag joint Ok
7 New graphite poly spring seat do I need poly here “ use old parts to try opentracks design”
8 Moog idler arm ok
9 Progressive springs ok
10 Poly spring bushing ok
11 4.5 leaf mid eye rear springs graphite poly front and rear ok
12 Heaver shackles ok
13 KYB shocks all around id go with the edelbrock eas, but thats just me
14 16X8 rims go for 17 x8s on all 4

Have I left any thing out, should I change something? Any input will be appreciated.

Stupid question: what does 17” wheels get me other than bigger brakes? I’m not a big fan of all rim and no tire sidewall. But if it is that better handling I might consider it.

1 I need UCA anyway and was going to go with the PMS wedge kit but it does not add that much to go all out.

2 I would like to see more road time on these first I might in the future. On offince John.

5 Is that for the bushing or the aftermarket rod?

7 I will modify the ones that come off and try this. Can you change the spring seat with out messing up the alignment?

I hope I got those numbered correctly.

Thanks everyone.

P.S. She was made on August 17 1967

 

[mdjay]

Bigger rims will help in cornering. Less sidewall means less tire roll in the corners as well...

I'm not a big fan of the GW uppers. Mainly because if you are going with high end tubular arms, they might as well be adjustable.

The NWK is a lot better of a mod then you are thinking. It works great on a new stock style set of uppers. Not too tough to make them stronger.

I'm for the Koni's on the shocks!!!

 

[Jester67]

Bigger rims will help in cornering. Less sidewall means less tire roll in the corners as well...

I'm not a big fan of the GW uppers. Mainly because if you are going with high end tubular arms, they might as well be adjustable.

The NWK is a lot better of a mod then you are thinking. It works great on a new stock style set of uppers. Not too tough to make them stronger.

I'm for the Koni's on the shocks!!!

NWK??

 

[mdjay]

Negative Wedge Kit