search for head plugs
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Are you referring to the smog pump crossover tube? The EGR doesn't have a tube. It is attached to the TB. For the smog pump tube, you can get them at either Summit, Jegs or any hardware store. You can even use some old spark plugs and break the porcelain part off. I believe they are 5/8" NPT thread. Removing those plugs is a PITA as they are located behind the heads and have 25 years of crud on them. You can also just get a 3/4" pipe cap and cap off the tube which is what I did.
If you want to remove the EGR, Summit, Jegs, etc sell the block off plate. You will have to get a tune or buy the plug on flea bay that plugs into the EGR connector and fools the computer. IMO I would leave the EGR connected as any hp gains are minimal and are not worth the hassle and driveability issues.
If you want to remove the EGR, Summit, Jegs, etc sell the block off plate. You will have to get a tune or buy the plug on flea bay that plugs into the EGR connector and fools the computer. IMO I would leave the EGR connected as any hp gains are minimal and are not worth the hassle and driveability issues.
ratio411
Founding Member
Options:
Cheapest: Cut the tubes off the connections that bolt to the back of the head, flip the connections over so that the flat part is covering the holes, reinstall them as caps, trash the tubes.
Cheap: Get some 5/8" bolts from the hardware store, short as possible, use them as plugs.
The holes are shallow, so chances are you are going to end up shortening the bolts. You only need something like 1/2" of thread.
Spendy, but clean and easy: Get some ready made plugs from RJM.
www.oldfuelinjection.com
Plugs: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/egr-eliminators/products/thermactor-smog-plugs
...
Cheapest: Cut the tubes off the connections that bolt to the back of the head, flip the connections over so that the flat part is covering the holes, reinstall them as caps, trash the tubes.
Cheap: Get some 5/8" bolts from the hardware store, short as possible, use them as plugs.
The holes are shallow, so chances are you are going to end up shortening the bolts. You only need something like 1/2" of thread.
Spendy, but clean and easy: Get some ready made plugs from RJM.
www.oldfuelinjection.com
Plugs: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/egr-eliminators/products/thermactor-smog-plugs
...
Egr is more for fuel economy, not emissions. Removing it usually causes problems because nobody ever does it right.
Unless you can get the car tuned and turn off the function in the EEC, do not use any resistors to fool it. Let the car generate a code which will turn off the EGR in the programming. Yes the CEL will be on.
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Unless you can get the car tuned and turn off the function in the EEC, do not use any resistors to fool it. Let the car generate a code which will turn off the EGR in the programming. Yes the CEL will be on.
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ratio411
Founding Member
The only reason I refuse to run the EGR on our cars is that I know cooler/cleaner air is better for power, engine longevity, and combating preignition... EGR pumps hot air straight from the exhaust into your engine, and that's not a good thing IMO.
Riddle me this: Why would you make mods such as CAI, for example, and then leave the EGR in place?
It is a wasted effort to do things to lower IAT and then pump exhaust fumes into your engine.
Just my .02... some folks disagree.
Riddle me this: Why would you make mods such as CAI, for example, and then leave the EGR in place?
It is a wasted effort to do things to lower IAT and then pump exhaust fumes into your engine.
Just my .02... some folks disagree.
Because I wouldn't associate the EGR having any effect on intake charge temps because #1), it's not open at anything over 3000RPM, and #2) when at WOT, the intake charge enters the cylinder so quickly that there is virtually no change due to air being a poor themal conductor of heat.
Everyone has their reasons and I'll gladly tell someone how to remove it My point was that "tricking" the car into thinking the EGR was working may do more harm than good. The EGR is only open at slightly above idle and under 3000RPM. During that time, the engine reduces fuel since the inert EGR gas doesn't burn. If you trick the EGR into thinking it's working with resistors, it will pull fuel, but without that inert gas, you will burn slightly lean during your crusing. Thats why i recommend just letting it trip a hard code. A code 31 will turn off the EGR function in the computer and not pull fuel. Some guys just hate living with the CEL on.
5L5 is correct. There is no harm to leave it. Mine is gone as I have non-emission heads. I will have it tricked into staying closed, however I can tune around it with the PMS.
ratio411
Founding Member
Air being a poor thermal conductor doesn't negate the fact that you are pumping super heated air into your engine when the EGR is open. ???
That heat does leach into the engine itself (metal is an excellent thermal conductor), and increase chances for detonation, among other things.
But if you are cruising at 2000RPM what difference does it make? It's not much hot air anyway. The diameter of the EGR port is what? 1/2". The diameter of a stock intake is 58mm. That's 21 times more air coming down the inlet than through the EGR assuming the EGR flow rate was comprable. That's a proverbial drop in the bucket.
Like i said before, i'm not against removing it. I will be ditching my EGR when i put on my heads which don't have the EGR ports on them.
I just put old spark plugs in the ports on my truck. Just break off the porcelain end like Mike stated. Nobody is going to see back there anyways so go ahead and go as cheap as you can on it.
