Serious 4v N/A Horse power opinions?

GoBabyVroommm

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Before i go and do something stupid to my 97 cobra i figure i speak my mind on the forums.

My build idea:
Kooks 1 7/8 LTs
410 <in the car, bought it like that>
03/04 c heads <i think its "C" > lol
Ported intake
N/a cams < no idea yet>
03/04 cobra 6speed

I know depends on the cam, will depend my hp. What kind of Hp and 1/4 mile w/ trap speed am i looking at? This is assuming on a 3400lbs car.

Not looking to do anymore blowers, turbos, or nitrous!
 
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twogts4us

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Around 380-400 at the crank.
Which certainly isn't "Serious 4v N/A Horse power"...? :shrug: You've only specified a couple of rather minor mods - headers, ported intake, cams, and the preferred C heads, and these will generate 'peaky' high rev horsepower. The 4.10s will help compensate for the lack of low end grunt.
 

GoBabyVroommm

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Well i wasnt saying what i listed is serious hp. its more to giggle at i guess. i should have worded it better. but truth be said im not going to waste my time and money to put down those numbers. ill just put a D1 like i did on GT.
 

ninjastang125

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Why is everyone so worried about dyno numbers? My 277 hp car can put down better et's then most 400 hp cars on here. I guess dyno numbers are just a way to say my e-penis is bigger then yours. It could be me but I woould rather build the car and see how it performs rather then oh me and 99% of the world just threw a blower on the caqr and made good hp numbers on a dyno but can't drive the car to a decent time.
 

twogts4us

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ill just put a D1 like i did on GT.
Good move. You can make some serious HP with the 4V heads, but,
#1 - not with the parts you listed and
#2 - the parts needed to make serious HP gets expensive
3.7 bore boss block/ ported navi heads/ sullivan intake/ custom cams / and around 8k rpms, and i see no problem breaking 500rwhp NA
and puts you out on the fringe of drivability (IE does it idle? - Could your Grandmother drive it?)

Why is everyone so worried about dyno numbers? My 277 hp car can put down better et's then most 400 hp cars on here. I guess dyno numbers are just a way to say my e-penis is bigger then yours. It could be me but I woould rather build the car and see how it performs rather then oh me and 99% of the world just threw a blower on the caqr and made good hp numbers on a dyno but can't drive the car to a decent time.
Truer words have never been spoken - good post! :hail2:

NA 4v's love/need a lot of gear. If I had one 4.30s atleast if not 4.56s
And another good post! :hail2:

Chris:nice:
 

GoBabyVroommm

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BTW don't think I'm mad or anything, i'm just to lazy to put the faces in! lol

Dyno numbers...... NOthing to do with E-peen but horse power to money ratio needs to be there. At 407 rwhp on a 3240lbs car we ran 10.9 with a 1.44 60ft, at 121mph automatic. We also have a Zo6 making 689rwhp doing 11.3 at 134mph. High HP number aren't everything to me but the money i spend has to be worth it. IMO 500 rwhp is all you need on the street. Anything else is just retarded.

From what i have seen in this thread! Ill put a D1, with a nice set of LTs, and run 420 rwhp. That is more than enough to hit 11.5/11.7. That is pretty fast for a street car. Once the motor blows ill run a 03/04 cobra long block with a nice intake and use my D1 on it. This time ill put down 480rwhp maybe, if i can hook and drive better i'll hit a 10.9.

Do my numbers sound right?
 

twogts4us

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BTW don't think I'm mad or anything, i'm just to lazy to put the faces in! lol
No worries :nice: :D

Dyno numbers...... High HP number aren't everything to me but the money i spend has to be worth it. IMO 500 rwhp is all you need on the street. Anything else is just retarded.
I agree! :nice:

From what i have seen in this thread! Ill put a D1, with a nice set of LTs, and run 420 rwhp. That is more than enough to hit 11.5/11.7. That is pretty fast for a street car. Once the motor blows ill run a 03/04 cobra long block with a nice intake and use my D1 on it. This time ill put down 480rwhp maybe, if i can hook and drive better i'll hit a 10.9.

Do my numbers sound right?
Apples to apples, I think the margin between the early Cobra and the late Cobra motors (both with the same D1) would not 60 RWHP (less than that), but otherwise I think you are pretty much spot on.

Best of Luck! It seems that 10 sec timeslips are becoming the expected value for street driven cars these days. I remember when a 10 sec car was a full on race car. (However, this was 30 years ago)
 

bdcardinal

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If i were doing a serious N/A 4v build here is what i would do assuming this would not see street use or very little street use and smog/emissions were not an issue

-Aluminum block, doesnt matter which one they all work without boost
-Darton MID sleeves bored to 3.70", allows the valves to be unshrouded
-insert your fav forged rotating assembly using ARP rod bolts and highest compession i felt comfy with
-Jan 05 casting 4v cobra heads that were polished with a mild port
-Sean Hyland road race cams (sorry i like turning right and left)
-SHM stainless valves with titanium retainers and insert your fav brand springs, oversized valves if budget allowed
-ARP main and head studs
-Dry sump oiling system with remote dual filter and largest cooler i could find along with a 5 gallon sump mounted behind the drivers seat as in NASCAR
-Livernois block drain kit
-Piston tops, skirts, rods, crank and crankcase would be coated with either a heat resistent or oil shedding coating
-Intake and Exhaust ports would be coated
-Whatever that cooling kit is called this week that punches out the core plug on the back of the drivers head and connects it with the heater line on the back of the head. (durability kids)
-Biggest radiator i could find that fit and didnt leak
-Canton coolant reservoir, metal does not leak like plastic
-Sheetmetal intake or else the Grand-Am intake if i could find one and get the IMRC working
-Dual or triple plate clutch preferably Tilton since they are just up the road from me
-Ideally a Hollinger 6 speed if i could get a bellhousing to work, they allow for WOT upshifts and resist left foot braking damage as that is my preferred method of driving.
-Factory coils (yes kiddies they are cheap and work)
-Largest diameter long tube headers with offroad X pipe and your fav brand mufflers, personally Borla Stinger routed through the pass door like a proper touring saloon.
-Torsen T2-R diff with 31 Spline axles and 3.73 or 4.10 gears with a diff cooler assy. If you use a Mocal t-stat and a Terminator heat exchanger you can have a pretty cool diff cooler for cheap.
-insert your fav large brakes from Willwood, Brembo, Alcon, AP Racing, Performance Friction, Carbon Industrie and your fav suspension setup with a cage and proper seats and there you have a fun little track toy.
 

GoBabyVroommm

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No worries :nice: :D



I agree! :nice:



Apples to apples, I think the margin between the early Cobra and the late Cobra motors (both with the same D1) would not 60 RWHP (less than that), but otherwise I think you are pretty much spot on.

Best of Luck! It seems that 10 sec timeslips are becoming the expected value for street driven cars these days. I remember when a 10 sec car was a full on race car. (However, this was 30 years ago)

Lol yea 10sec is a street car. We have a big housing T88 turbo on a 408 making 914rwhp on a mustang dyno and we cruise it!!!
 

GoBabyVroommm

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If i were doing a serious N/A 4v build here is what i would do assuming this would not see street use or very little street use and smog/emissions were not an issue

-Aluminum block, doesnt matter which one they all work without boost
-Darton MID sleeves bored to 3.70", allows the valves to be unshrouded
-insert your fav forged rotating assembly using ARP rod bolts and highest compession i felt comfy with
-Jan 05 casting 4v cobra heads that were polished with a mild port
-Sean Hyland road race cams (sorry i like turning right and left)
-SHM stainless valves with titanium retainers and insert your fav brand springs, oversized valves if budget allowed
-ARP main and head studs
-Dry sump oiling system with remote dual filter and largest cooler i could find along with a 5 gallon sump mounted behind the drivers seat as in NASCAR
-Livernois block drain kit
-Piston tops, skirts, rods, crank and crankcase would be coated with either a heat resistent or oil shedding coating
-Intake and Exhaust ports would be coated
-Whatever that cooling kit is called this week that punches out the core plug on the back of the drivers head and connects it with the heater line on the back of the head. (durability kids)
-Biggest radiator i could find that fit and didnt leak
-Canton coolant reservoir, metal does not leak like plastic
-Sheetmetal intake or else the Grand-Am intake if i could find one and get the IMRC working
-Dual or triple plate clutch preferably Tilton since they are just up the road from me
-Ideally a Hollinger 6 speed if i could get a bellhousing to work, they allow for WOT upshifts and resist left foot braking damage as that is my preferred method of driving.
-Factory coils (yes kiddies they are cheap and work)
-Largest diameter long tube headers with offroad X pipe and your fav brand mufflers, personally Borla Stinger routed through the pass door like a proper touring saloon.
-Torsen T2-R diff with 31 Spline axles and 3.73 or 4.10 gears with a diff cooler assy. If you use a Mocal t-stat and a Terminator heat exchanger you can have a pretty cool diff cooler for cheap.
-insert your fav large brakes from Willwood, Brembo, Alcon, AP Racing, Performance Friction, Carbon Industrie and your fav suspension setup with a cage and proper seats and there you have a fun little track toy.
Funny thing about all that stuff u listed it won't last long. I've learned that buying a motor that is stock and built by ford/gm is the best thing to do. Example buying a 5.4 s/c motor! Sure its a lot now but give it some time. But that thing will make some serious hp. Whatever to each there own.
 

bdcardinal

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Funny thing about all that stuff u listed it won't last long. I've learned that buying a motor that is stock and built by ford/gm is the best thing to do. Example buying a 5.4 s/c motor! Sure its a lot now but give it some time. But that thing will make some serious hp. Whatever to each there own.
O i know the factory stuff is all that and a bag of chips, but if built right this motor should last at least 4 or 5 years of hard track days if properly maintained.
 

GoBabyVroommm

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O i know the factory stuff is all that and a bag of chips, but if built right this motor should last at least 4 or 5 years of hard track days if properly maintained.
See this totally depends on your build and how your driving it. From what we/I have seen, assuming we're not trying to push over 1000hp. A stock btm end seem to last the longest.

That being said, knowing that the motor is stock other that H/C/I <heads,cam,intake> we focus on other things. Like putting the car on a diet, the right gear, with a good stall, suspension etc....

In my opinion we have a lot of great engine builders in chicago/Il but the bottom line is. Sometimes its other things that case your motor to go. Example tune, wrong octane,computer takes a crap, cooling system fail. On a stock car is no big deal but on a car with a built motor that is making some serious HP they get hurt quick. Just like our 427LSX block, its apart over something stupid as hell.

No i don't know everything just going by what I have seen. :shrug:
 
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