Shock Tower Crack Repair: Which Manual for Dimensions?

jabb

Member
Dec 14, 2007
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Hey all. I was just "fortunate" enough while scraping underbody coating off my passenger shock tower interior (gotta love that gooey stuff) to find a nice pair of stress fractures. I've decided that I'll do the prep work of pulling the engine and realigning everything myself before having someone who doesn't suck with a welder stick it back together.

I'd been told the proper dimensions could be found in a "Mustang Chassis Manual." My big question is: whats the actual title of the manual I need? I've found "1967 Chassis Assembly Manual" "1967 Body Assembly Manual" "1967 Shop Manual" etc. I'm guessing its the first one, but it could also be something I've not found yet.

Thanks!
 
I suspect they meant this. If you plan on doing your own work, you need this:

1968%20FORD%20MUSTANG%20shop%20manual%20COVER.jpeg
 
Where is the crack located on the tower? Base, middle, top? I doubt that any of the physical dimensions have changed from two cracks. Not saying that they didn’t, but I find it unlikely. I’m assuming that you just have some small cracks along the base of the tower? If it was just me I would weld the cracks out as they are. After 30+ years or use and abuse I’m sure nothing on the front end your car would diamond out the same dimensions as the day it rolled out the door. How do you plan on tweaking it back into specs anyway?? There’s not a lot to push or pull on under there. Let us know how it works out
 
The Factory manual is what you need.
It is the best and comes in a CD format or you can download it directly from the publisher. The "key' lets you install the program on 3 computers.
Here are all the manuals available for a 67:
http://www.fordmanuals.com/estore/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=102

Here is the digital download shop manual for $16:
FordManuals.com - 1967 Cougar, Falcon, Mustang Shop Manual (Digital)

Here is an assembly manual that really can help for $15:
FordManuals.com - 1967 Mustang Part and Body Illustrations (Digital)
 
Cracks are near the middle bottom by where the upper control arm mount is. There are two 3 pointed cracks, one on each side. As and engineer it looks everything like tensional cracking and based on the control arm looking like its never been greased I can guess why. Comparing the joint between the shock tower face and the frame rail to the other shock tower it looks like there's at least 1/8" of deflection inward but there is no separation of the cracks themselves. It seems to me that just pressing the metal back into place, welding the cracks, and then welding on some reinforcing plates should be just as strong as new. Probably want to drill the ends of the cracks out to prevent stress risers too.
 
Cracks are near the middle bottom by where the upper control arm mount is. There are two 3 pointed cracks, one on each side. As and engineer it looks everything like tensional cracking and based on the control arm looking like its never been greased I can guess why. Comparing the joint between the shock tower face and the frame rail to the other shock tower it looks like there's at least 1/8" of deflection inward but there is no separation of the cracks themselves. It seems to me that just pressing the metal back into place, welding the cracks, and then welding on some reinforcing plates should be just as strong as new. Probably want to drill the ends of the cracks out to prevent stress risers too.

The vast majority of cracked towers I have seen is on 67-70 cars with aftermarket wheels having a positive (sticking out farther) offset.