Should I buy this 67 S-code fastback

[RedPonyGT]

I live in Charleston, SC the guy who owns this s-code 67 fastback lives in nebraska. I have had some people look at it the car is as the seller described. However, he wants $10500 and I have to pay to have it shipped down here which is another $700. The people who when to look at it said it was worth about 8 or $9,000. But it is a factory S-code...
The interior needs to be replaced because it was stored for 10 years and just brought out to sell. The body has rust on the quarter pannels and it eats through on a small spot on the back fender as well as in the trunk. The hood needs new hood pins because they are busted.
The car runs well and has matching numbers.
Should I pay 10,500 for this car?
I really need help on this from knowledgable people.
Thanks,
John

 

[jb1dsl]

how about some pics

 

[ratio411]

I am no expert on this Stang, but if it were me...

I would make a solid offer for what you think it is worth.
By solid, I mean let the seller know without a doubt that you are serious and this is what you think it is worth. Make them confident that they WILL get the money if they agree.
Kinda like flashing the cash to bait a seller into accepting less.
It is just harder to do it long distance. You have to convince them that you have a 'wad' in hand and that is all you think the car is worth.
There is a mind game when dealing...
If you are selling, the object is worth it's weight in gold, and that is how you project it.
If you are buying, the object is one of a million available for the price you are offering.
You not only project this, but you convince yourself too as protection for impulse buying.
Someone out there will sell you this same quality vehicle for what you are offering.
Dave

 

[RedPonyGT]

I have a pic but its too big for the upload.
I am going to tell him either her takes $9,000 or I'm gone because that rust will cost me a pretty penny to repair.

 

[reenmachine]

The rust kind of scares me off, but then again I'm spoiled living out here in the Southwest. You've got to find out what the undercarriage looks like. In my opinion, that's where 50% of the value of the car is. I've paid way more than that for 100% rust-free fastbacks that were only C-codes and it was totally worth it.

You'll definitely pay a premium for a solid car, but compare that to what it takes to do quality rust repair and it stacks up favorably, considering the added value you'll have owning an all-original sheet metal car.

It also comes down to what you want to do with the car. If you're planning a stock restoration or see the car as an investment, I'd be more concerned with original metal. If you're going restomod or something along those lines it's less of a concern. And if that's the case, why pay extra for an S-code in the first place?

Good luck -- '67-8 fastbacks are becoming harder and harder to find. I'm always in the market for solid, rust-free cars and they're pretty scarce these days, especially with the Eleanor fad in full swing.

 

[TBP]

That seems like a pretty high price. I know fastbacks are fetching a premium these days, but for that much work, that just seems to much.

 

[FFR428]

As decribed I'd be sure to see it in person before taking anything. Somes views are different than others.....what might be horrible to you, not bad to others...etc. and that's a good chunk of change also. If it was $1-2k sure no biggie but almost 10 large I'd want a look myself. Have you verified the running gear is all original? Casting numbers and date codes? I'd be sure all that is in order to. That 390 will not have the vin number on the block as that started in 69 I beleive. I sure you have covered these but be carefull. a lot can happen to a car in 37 years. JMO, G.

 

[Timmy]

If it’s been stored for 10 years, you may find issues when you start driving it. That rear main seal will more than likely start leaking if it’s not already.

My 69 was stored for a few years before I bought it and I have had to replace almost every seal and gasket that I can get to without tearing the motor down. I also had to replace the wheel cylinders, shocks, window seals, and weather stripping.

It really starts adding up. Also, you will not know the “real” condition of the motor. When I dropped the oil pan to replace the leaking gasket, I found two piston skits were broken which mean I’m rebuilding the motor now.

10K can quickly run into 15 to 20K before you know it. I would look at the car in person before I dropped that kind of cash.

 

[FFR428]

FWIW check out the classifieds at www.fordfe.com someone has a nice 67 S code for $15K Original 56K mi car. Solid no rust. Check it out, G.