The pinholes are from dirt/oil. It's called a gas inclusion,..It's exactly like a fish eye in paint,..and for the exact same reason. The metal you were welding may have had some coating on it as well that caused the reaction.
Well I decided to make some subframe connectors tonight.
Some of the welds came out nice, others.... (I'll be really technical here) - others seemed to be full of air and "deflated" as I went, leaving a bunch of little holes in the bead. (the first two pictures show what I mean with the little holes). Since my technique has been under scrutiny lately, I'm offering up pictures of my work in hopes that I'll get some constructive criticism on what to adjust to make the welds better.
I adjusted the wire speed and voltage to no avail. Its a Hobart 220v MIG with 75/25 mix gas, and its incredibly simple to use, just seems to pick and choose when it wants to make nice beads.
I usually run mine at 15, and i'll run the bottle down to 300 or so before I'm worried about filling itThe regulator is set somewhere between 15 and 20 lbs. My only thought was that low bottle pressure was causing it - Im down to around 1500 PSI.... Someone forgot to close the valve one night.
I did have the fans off too.
I'd like to ceramic coat them. I have a buddy who does powder coating in his garage and does a nice job, I'll clean them up and give the headers and rest of the hot side to himAre you going to wrap these headers or at least paint them black?
My initial guess was cast iron, since I made a couple tacks and they immediately broke off, but as I went, the blending of the bead got a lot better sooo....Maybe they're steel? Its all an assumption - I've seen it done dozens of times with good success, so we will see.I thought exhaust manifolds were cast iron. Are LS manifolds cast steel?
My initial guess was cast iron, since I made a couple tacks and they immediately broke off, but as I went, the blending of the bead got a lot better sooo....Maybe they're steel? Its all an assumption - I've seen it done dozens of times with good success, so we will see.
If this doesn't work, I can always take cheap SBF headers and weld on LS flanges. I've seen that done with an SBF on3 kit on a 6.0 and it worked very well.
That's "decent"? What does " Excellent" look like?
Here is an example without porosity. This was done on the roof of a building welding a Drycooler down to the roof. I had to build a cardboard tent to stop the wind but had decent results for a 110v mig welder.
Id say its cast steel then. I remember trying to keep the sparks away from my beerSimple way to tell has already been done. Grind the metal w/ a grinding/flap wheel. If it doesn't spark, or barely gives off any sparks it's cast iron.
Power tools and beer!! Nothing can go wrong here. Lol. Glad you've found some free time for the car.Id say its cast steel then. I remember trying to keep the sparks away from my beer
I'll snap some pics from an upcoming project for yaThat's "decent"? What does " Excellent" look like?
A local buddy with a turbo 351w car gave me some stuff tonight:
The turbo: yes, it's from a tracked vehicle that moves dirt. I'm going to use it to mock up the turbo flange since it's a T6. It'll be March before I can buy the turbo and I refuse to wait.
The tubing is 2.5" for the crossover to use with some bends I already have. Also notice the merge. Teehee I dont have to make one!
I also drilled out the spot welds on the sway bar mounts, ground down the other crap, and began filling holes on the shock towers. I'm hoping Santy Claws will bring me some Scott Rod panels for the inner fenders that I can weld in. I really don't wanna make them again like I did in the Hoopty Build...
One of these days, I'll take the motor apart and fix the main cap I put in backwards. I'm assuming I need a new bearing?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?