Hot tanking is just a method of cleaning the block after it has been disassembled. It gets all of the old crap and looks, essentially like a newly made block. It is very effective, not as many shops perform this properly anymore because of EPA mandates with the chemicals used and disposal of the wastes after cleaning the block. Uncle Sugar wants his dime in other words.
Magnafluxing the block is a method of checking for problems in the integrity of the block (cracks).
The actual number is .010 on the block. This mainly means a hone will be run down each cylinder to restore the cross hatching the rings need to provide a seal and prevent blow by of oil to the combustion chamber or air fuel mixture into the oiling system. If you hear of a larger number like .030 (30 thousandths) or larger, it means at least a slight over bore of the cylinder. .010 would mean new rings, .030 and larger means new pistons usually. When the number is larger than your .010, it means it's being rebored. When you hear of a 347 or a 363 engine based on a 5.0. It means it's been rebored extensively and/or had the connecting rods changed for a longer stroke, which means a new crankshaft as well. All in effort of more cubic inches. Because there's no replacement for displacement (ok, a turbo or sc can be argued here, @Boosted92LX ?).
This made my head hurt .
If it is already costing 5K, walk away. you can buy a crate engine for that price and then some.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3060ct/overview/make/ford
Put the intake and accessories on and your done.
I think the point most are missing here is the shop is not only removing the engine for you, but rebuilding, and reinstalling the engine.......which times that by a shop rate and parts......makes sense sort of.
Most people forget LMR sells GT40Ps for 600 dollars
If you do not procure the parts yourself, a shop will charge out the a$$
might as well just do the stock rebuild save up for a 2013 5.0 engine and dump that in there ... BTW will the new 5.0 even fit in a SN95??
it was warped or bent or whatever .. its what shot the engine toWhy on earth would have had to replace the crank? All it would have needed was the journals polished.
Those are actually pretty fair prices from a shop and none of those items are in a rebuild kit. It's an itemized break down of everything purchased and he laid hands on. Those extraneous items never make it into the Summit or LMR ads offering stroker or rebuild kits, but damn if you can't get the engine back together without them.and this was why the rebuild was so much just over 4K
what i dont get is i would call some of this stuff part of the engine rebuild ... like the harmonic and the coolant and spark plugs
Ahhh.. that will do it. What's the car doing that you need to take it back? You're coming off a fresh rebuild, keep in mind there is a period of time for things to break and settle in.it was warped or bent or whatever .. its what shot the engine to **** .. well it was the harmonic balancer really the damaged the crank
the starter was covered in oil as the rear main sall was badAhhh.. that will do it. What's the car doing that you need to take it back? You're coming off a fresh rebuild, keep in mind there is a period of time for things to break and settle in.
it wasnt when i picked it up ... it took about 40 miles about 45 minutes for it to start doing itPull codes. In all likelihood there is a bad connection somewhere or perhaps a vacuum leak. If it was stumbling that badly he shouldn't have released the car back to you.
i dont know anyone that can pull codes everyone says that can only read OBD2 .. and mine is a OBD1 ... but there is a ford deal across the street from this guyPull codes. In all likelihood there is a bad connection somewhere or perhaps a vacuum leak. If it was stumbling that badly he shouldn't have released the car back to you.
Take video of the car not performing. Your mechanic needs to see that to correct the issue.
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