Progress Thread Snow - 93 GT Vert. My first Ford, Mustang, convertible, ...

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#843
Idling around 700-800 now. I will test drive shortly.

It sure 'sounds' like I have a vacuum leak. I would guess at the upper intake gasket/plenum whatever its called. Just sounds like it when I put my ear there.

Anyone have a smoke machine they like?
 
#845
So I found another un-used harness. It is on the rear of the fuel line harness. It is a 2-pin connector with colors Red, Black/Blue. Its right next to EGR Position Sensor and the Throttle Position. Any ideas what it could be?

Here is a link to the diagram: https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/lower-intake-manifold-sensors.734820/#post-7301523

Pic

IMG_2870.jpeg
 
#846
My temp sending unit keeps leaking (front of lower intake by thermostat housing somewhat under distributor). I had been using thread sealant. Is that not good enough? Should I be using plumbers tape instead? Any other tricks?
 
#847
JAA said:
My temp sending unit keeps leaking (front of lower intake by thermostat housing somewhat under distributor). I had been using thread sealant. Is that not good enough? Should I be using plumbers tape instead? Any other tricks?
Click to expand...
5 revolutions of plumbers tape and a light coating of sealant. Still went in smooth. It almost feels like retapping this made it too clean, lol.

IMG_2871.jpeg
 
#848
JAA said:
It almost feels like retapping this made it too clean, lol.
Click to expand...
What did you chase the threads with?

Existing threads should never be chased with cutting taps or dies. The threads can actually be made too big (in the case of female threads) or too small (male threads). Always use chase taps and dies, like these (or similar)....

Amazon product ASIN B00DTEFSWY
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTEFSWY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I got a set of those and recommend them.

Taken from the AutoServiceProfessional website:
"Chaser taps are specifically designed to re-form and clean existing threads. The spirals on a chaser tap are designed in such a way to follow an existing helical thread spiral path without removing material. While you may be able to accomplish the task by using a standard cutting tap, you run the risk of weakening the existing threads."
 
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#849
85GTStangGuy said:
What did you chase the threads with?

Existing threads should never be chased with cutting taps or dies. The threads can actually be made too big (in the case of female threads) or too small (male threads). Always use chase taps and dies, like these (or similar)....

Amazon product ASIN B00DTEFSWY
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTEFSWY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I got a set of those and recommend them.

Taken from the AutoServiceProfessional website:
"Chaser taps are specifically designed to re-form and clean existing threads. The spirals on a chaser tap are designed in such a way to follow an existing helical thread spiral path without removing material. While you may be able to accomplish the task by using a standard cutting tap, you run the risk of weakening the existing threads."
Click to expand...
Thanks for this.

I do have that set. The issue I am having is that the lower intake had either damage to the threads or some sort of power-coat-something which did not allow me to thread down the heater tube nor this 3/8 NPT. To be specific, this isnt gunk or sealant, tape, etc, but bad threading.

Back earlier in the thread I was discussing the heater tube issue as the chaser kit did not have the proper size. I was recommended to get a tap for it to clean up the threads. I went with the below one. I used that kit for this instance and that is how we got to where we are at today. When I cleaned the threads there was definitely metal particulate which came up. I figured this was a good thing as I was cleaning up whatever was in there that was blocking the 3/8 from threading all the way down.

So, if I retapped my threads 'too well', what is my next step here?

Thank you


Amazon product ASIN B07X2VFBZZ
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X2VFBZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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#850
JAA said:
So, if I retapped my threads 'too well', what is my next step here?
Click to expand...

Thread sealant (I like Loctite 565).... but it seems as if you've already gone down that route. So I'm not sure what your next step should be. :shrug:

I definitely prefer thread sealant over thread tape. Loctite (Henkel) brought a demonstration truck to the company I work for and put on a really good show for the engineering dept, and ever since then I've been sold on their 565 sealant. Not only is it a great sealant, but it's lubricity eases part assembly and also helps prevent thread galling.
 
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#851
85GTStangGuy said:
Thread sealant (I like Loctite 565).... but it seems as if you've already gone down that route. So I'm not sure what your next step should be. :shrug:

I definitely prefer thread sealant over thread tape. Loctite (Henkel) brought a demonstration truck to the company I work for and put on a really good show for the engineering dept, and ever since then I've been sold on their 565 sealant. Not only is it a great sealant, but it's lubricity eases part assembly and also helps prevent thread galling.
Click to expand...
Thank you

Funny enough I liberally used the permatex sealant on the heater tube. I swear it’s no more than 3 to 4 threads down. Hell if it’s leaking a smidge.

I watched a plumbing video about the tape/sealant application. I’ll be staring the car in a couple hours, we will see the outcome.

I looked a bit at the heli coil. Certainly an option, but not sure about it for pressurized coolant.
 
#856
Don't know whey I didn't try this earlier, but I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the tree (the capped B/R port). I started the car and got a 19 reading (see below). I didn't see any flutter away from 19. When I would hit the gas it would go down and them come back up, even over 19 and then right back to 19 and stay solid. Is this expected?

IMG_2872.jpeg
 
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#857
PS - I saw a minor leak coming from my plumbers special on the temperature sending unit. WTF - is the right play here just to not start the car so I dont have any problems?

Ill take it for a ride today to see how bad it gets. I also ordered some of the loctite 565.

In all seriousness, Im wondering if Im not letting the sealant cure enough. It should be done in like 24 hours, but Im wondering if it would be helpful to give it more time. Id like to stop by the Friday afternoon car show again. As long as the leak is minimal ill prolly do that Friday night and then redo it with the 565 sealant liberally over the weekend and give it a number of days to settle.

If that doesn't work all I got is to tap a larger port and use a reducer, though that's a bit of scary territory.
 
#858
This is the sealant Im using, pretty standard. Though I dont see any psi ratings on it: https://www.permatex.com/products/t...lants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe-4-oz/

The loctite 565 states this:

Product Description​

Testing and approvals are CSA International, UL Listed for US, ULC Listed for Canada, NSF/ANSI 61, CFIA, AGA. Ideal for pipe, thread. Acrylic Ester chemical compound. Paste or Gel physical form. 10000.00 psi maximum pressure. Chemical resistance. 1.1 specific gravity. 300000.0 cP viscosity.
Click to expand...

There is a Permatex high temp/psi here: https://www.permatex.com/products/t...rmatex-high-temperature-thread-sealant-50-ml/

SUGGESTED APPLICATIONS
Head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units and sensors, oil and coolant lines, fuel fittings, rear axle fill plug, brake and power steering fittings
Click to expand...
 
#860
Loctite 592 (im still going to go with the 565) Q/A from Amazon:

I have a brass engine coolant temperature gauge leaking. Do i have to drain the coolant before using and let dry completely?

Answer:
The fitting must be clean and dry prior to applying the 592, and it should be allowed to cure for at least 24 hours (preferably 72) before adding the coolant back into the system. Any other questions, please reach out to our technical team at 1-800-LOCTITE

By Elizabeth Casatelli MANUFACTURER on October 15, 2021
For best results, clean and dry the parts being mated before applying 592. Unless the gauge is on the bottom of the engine, you may not need to completely drain the fluid.

By Eugene on October 15, 2021
No! Remove gauge and clean gauge and engine threads. Wipe clean and dry. Put sealant on gauge threads one or two threads from end of threads.
Make sure rest of threads are evenly coated up to gauge back. Screw in gauge to desired position. Immediately remove all excess sealant. Let set for a few minutes. The longer it sets the harder it gets. It will be hard in a day or so

By william 111 on October 15, 2021
Click to expand...
 
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