Engine Spout connector (Code 18)

Not having the extension piece only means that the bolt in the engine harness 60 pin connector would not retain the harness as intended by the factory which you alluded to in Post #8. Not ideal by any means but like the General stated and you have done punt it until you resolve the issue to rule it out.

In all honesty I would say it probably does little more than a good tune up and bumping the timing to 14 degrees did back in the day if the motor is stock. I am one of those guys that fully believes that the only way you get your money's worth from a tune it to put it on a dyno and tune it on a dyno. And if you are doing this you better have changed the heads, cam, intakes, injectors, cold air intake, etc otherwise tuning a basically stock EEC-IV motor won't net you the hp to make the dollars spent worth it unless you are in some type of stock class racing bracket or series.

Noobz347 said:

None of that looks burned but I have no idea what it is.

Click to expand...

Since there's no active circuitry on that, the resistors are probably there to alter sensor values seen by the ECU. Usually the strategy is to make intake air and coolant temps look lower than they are so the engine runs more fuel and timing. It might even make the (narrowband) O2 sensor signal look lean to again increase fuel. Usually all they do is reduce fuel economy. They were a huge ripoff for what they cost back then. It might be handy as a breakout board though.

If that breaout box is for a MAF conversion alls you need to do is do the modification the right way by taking the schematic posted by a member and rewiring the plug yourself or you can go on eBay and order a new breakout box...

Theres a great guy on ebay that can fix your ECUs screw-in nutsert if needed and verify your ECU is functioning correctly..






The hardest part is removing the red plug and using a small jewelers screwdriver and a jewelers loupe to very gently flick the terminal locks back to remove or add the terminals then to gently flick them back so the red locking plug wont break the locking tabs off..

You can get the terminals on ebay by buying an EEC-IV terminal plug thats been cut from the harness..






While youre repinning and rewiring the ECU plug you can take the time to do a continuity and resistor tests from the ECU plug to where it terminates to to find any open or shorted wires/connections..

I hook up all the sensors atc and I test the wiring harness as a whole system and I check and verify all my data etc using my laptop and a QH chip//



Another thing to note is where terminals 40 and 60 terminate to as this spot is very important and needs to be ultra clean with a great grounding point and have no other wires spliced into them ...

I find its easier to sometimes remove the whole harness and rebuild them and also remove the salt n pepper shaker connections ....

The other alternative would be to buy a speed density ECU from EBay and plugging it in and running your car as speed density which isnt bad and are easier to trick than a MAF system without needing a tuning chip if you decide to do upgrades like a bigger TB ///



Good Luck