Spring Install Question

C

CALYP50

New Member

Dec 5, 2006

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1

San Antonio, TX

Mar 22, 2008

#1

• Mar 22, 2008

• #1

I've looked through about a dozen different threads and haven't seen any information regarding 'clocking' of the rear springs. Is there a particular way they go in or just shove them in and go?

In the middle of the install of my Eibachs and just want to be sure I get this right. Thanks!

 

C

COBESGT

Member

Oct 19, 2004

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Dubuque, Iowa

Mar 23, 2008

#2

• Mar 23, 2008

• #2

I just finished my install, Eibachs also. I installed mine the same way the stock ones were. For me this meant, the end of the spring on the top side was on the front of the spring perch and also pointed towards the center of the car. Same for both sides.

Don't forget to install the rubber isolators that go on the lowest coil of the front springs. You'll have to pull them off of the stock springs.

Hope this helps.

 

H

Hoboattacker

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Sep 7, 2005

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Baton Rouge (LSU) / Houston, TX

Mar 23, 2008

#3

• Mar 23, 2008

• #3

Drop the sway bar when you do the rears. It makes it 100000000000000x easier. I did that trick and both of the rear springs took me less than 10 minutes (including jacking it up and everything). When you do it this way the spring will almost fall out of place and you can just slip in the new spring and start on the other side

And I just shoved them in and went. Haven't had any problems (3k miles) with them. Put them in with the Eibach logo right side up, though.

 

C

CALYP50

New Member

Dec 5, 2006

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San Antonio, TX

Mar 23, 2008

#4

• Mar 23, 2008

• #4

COBESGT said:

I just finished my install, Eibachs also. I installed mine the same way the stock ones were. For me this meant, the end of the spring on the top side was on the front of the spring perch and also pointed towards the center of the car. Same for both sides.

Don't forget to install the rubber isolators that go on the lowest coil of the front springs. You'll have to pull them off of the stock springs.

Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Uh oh. Now you tell me! seems to be the only part I missed. How critical is this piece? I dont think any of the three sets of instructions I had mentioned this.

Outside of that, the install was simple and I love the new look and feel of the stang. It does look like I'll need an adjustable panhard bar though...

Thanks once more for all of the help and advice. I can't believe the dealership wanted $950 for the install.

 

H

Hoboattacker

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Baton Rouge (LSU) / Houston, TX

Mar 23, 2008

#5

• Mar 23, 2008

• #5

You actually don't need it. The eibachs come with that clear piece that does the same thing as the black piece on the stockers. From what I understand, it is there to help reduce noise and what not. I didn't put them on my car, and my 2 friends didn't put them on their cars (the black pieces) and our cars are perfectly fine after many many miles between the 3 of us.

 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.

10 Year Member

May 23, 2004

692

10

89

East Moline, IL

Mar 23, 2008

#6

• Mar 23, 2008

• #6

I transferred the isolators just to be safe. The Eibach ones are on the 2nd or 3rd coils. I put the stock ones on the first coils. But you should be ok.

 

C

CALYP50

New Member

Dec 5, 2006

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San Antonio, TX

Mar 25, 2008

#7

• Mar 25, 2008

• #7

Thanks for the help, everybody. I had the springs completely installed Saturday evening, had it aligned on Monday morning. Drove around the great state of Tx and put a little over 600 miles on them in the last 2 days and they seem to be doing great.

The shop I had it aligned at said the alignment "turned out sweet" and that it was really easy to get it back into spec with the camber bolts. (Only small "grrr" is that they charged me a half-hour of labor to install the bolts)

Now, once I get my adjustable panhard, we'll be doing great. I didn't figure there'd be any harm in driving it w/ the rear end shifted a bit?? I didn't measure, but it was enough to tell just by looking at the fender gap that there was an issue.

+1 on the Eibach Pro Kit too.

 

H

Hoboattacker

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Baton Rouge (LSU) / Houston, TX

Mar 26, 2008

#8

• Mar 26, 2008

• #8

No harm in driving w/ out adjusting the rear back into spec. If you have wheels/tires (aftermarket) you need to find a pair of stockers so you can do a plumb drop and measure each side (distance from wheel to string attached to fender). Once you find the difference, you can adjust the panhard bar so the rear is back in spec.

Oh yeah, you need to do the plumb drop with the car in the air and the suspension UNLOADED.

 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is

May 1, 2005

3,015

1

79

7200 feet

Mar 27, 2008

#9

• Mar 27, 2008

• #9

Hoboattacker said:

Oh yeah, you need to do the plumb drop with the car in the air and the suspension UNLOADED.

Click to expand...

why do you need the stock tires? and why with the car in the air, unloaded? as long as your aftermarket tires dont stick out of the fenderwell after adjustment, you should be fine with any tire. also, how do you center the axle if the suspension is unloaded? once you set the car down to ride height it will throw the axle off center? i dont know anyone that drives a car with the suspension unloaded, so why center an unloaded suspension??

 

H

Hoboattacker

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Baton Rouge (LSU) / Houston, TX

Mar 27, 2008

#10

• Mar 27, 2008

• #10

I meant adjust the suspension while it is unloaded. I don't know how you can do it while the suspension is loaded and my mechanic did it while it was unloaded. Also, my tires do stick out so I would need the stock tires. When we reloaded the suspension, it was perfectly in spec.

 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is

May 1, 2005

3,015

1

79

7200 feet

Mar 27, 2008

#11

• Mar 27, 2008

• #11

if it is loaded, the car moves over the axle, you dont pull the axle across the ground. it may be easier to tighten the jam nuts when it us unloaded to get a better angle on them, but not required.

your tech must have measured on the ground, and adjusted the length while it was up. i dont see how you can check the centering while the car is up, unless he did some geometry calculations real quick with a 3 link, the axle moves in an arc as the suspension moves and does not stay centered when unloaded.