Suspension Standard length sfc vs full length

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Convertible needs all the help it can get stiffening up the body since there's no roof structure to hold things together. I say go full length MM. They also have the bracket's that stabilize the seats. Convertible is also supposed to have a crossbar that goes from the radiator support to the k-member and further back to body under the foot well. Also, make sure nobody removed the front bumper support that goes under the bumper cover. People strip all kinds of important things to try and loose weight. They ruin a car for minimal gains in weight loss. It gets quite silly
 
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I've put these on every fox body I've owned. Just bought another set for the 86 from LMR

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If you could, please update this thread. I contemplated doing the same swap in my coupe but decided against it. I’d be interested in hearing your results.
I'll tell you what I noticed after installing full length sub frame connectors. Before installing them, when the rear tires would loose traction under power, the rear end would usually kick to one side as the wheels were spinning. With the subs installed, the rear tendency to kick to the side is substantially reduced. To me it indicates the more rigid body structure is not flexing as much under power. It will still break traction but when it does, it definitely tracks straighter.
 
Would it be best to have all of the drivetrain in the car before installing SFC's? My engine/transmission is out and I wonder if the lack of there installed weight would "tweak" the car differently for the weld in?
Second question... I would think the powdercoated SFC's would be ruined after welding them in?? Any experience or recommendations to go plain or Powdercoated??
 
I’m not sure about having the drive train out. I would suspect it doesn’t matter, providing you have the kmember and trans crossmember installed and the weight on the suspension.

I wouldn’t worry about the powder coat. You’ll have already ground it off for welding. Not to mention you’ll need to paint the welds anyway so it’s not a big deal. MM is the preferred brand around here. Also check out stifflers. They’re similar and have masked off areas for welding.
 
I’m not sure about having the drive train out. I would suspect it doesn’t matter, providing you have the kmember and trans crossmember installed and the weight on the suspension.

I wouldn’t worry about the powder coat. You’ll have already ground it off for welding. Not to mention you’ll need to paint the welds anyway so it’s not a big deal. MM is the preferred brand around here. Also check out stifflers. They’re similar and have masked off areas for welding.
So the welding would only effect the actual areas that your welding and the rest of the Powdercoat should be OK? ( Not a welder here)....
 
Let's get an observer 's view.
Hang'n round the shop as I do (mustly 'cause they ain't lettin me touch tools, for some reason that particular wrench is missing the day after I use it) for too many years I have witnessed 'cooter' weld on cars with full interior and only once there was smouldering carpet, but gone unnoticed could have been a disaster.
I can dig the ice bag trick, I bet a good welder would only use one bag with enough left for martinis. Better safe than an insurance claim.
 
My MM full length welded connectors are close to the coolest mod for my vert. Car feels super solid and it's nice to be able to put a jack under them. Completely different feel. Mine were installed last year on a '93 that probably has 195k miles on the body.