Starter soleniod??

asecretfile

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Feb 11, 2007

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Mar 28, 2008

#1

• Mar 28, 2008

• #1

Working on a 3G alternator upgrade and once I add the 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the positive side of the starter soleniod, theres so much crap plugged in there that I cant get the new wire on and the nut fastened because all of the length of the soleniod stud is occupied. Can one of those be jumped or pigtailed or something to make room?

thanks

 

fastford91

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Aug 15, 2006

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Mar 28, 2008

#2

• Mar 28, 2008

• #2

hmmm i did the same thing but didn't have any trouble getting it onto the solenoid ! do you have the wire crimped into one of those eyelet things for wires? that how i did it! worked OK for mine!!

 

asecretfile

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Feb 11, 2007

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Mar 28, 2008

#3

• Mar 28, 2008

• #3

ok thanks that worked

also the screw broke off the old solenoid when I was loosing the nut and I bought a new one and the wiring diagram shows it wires reverse of what the old one was...whereas the positive post was on the left, new one its on the right

had to double check to make sure I didnt have it upside down and nope cause it has the mounting holes in the wiring diagram for orientation

hmm

 

jrichker

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Mar 29, 2008

#4

• Mar 29, 2008

• #4

Starter solenoid wiring
Connect the fused 4 gauge wire to the alternator and the battery side of the starter solenoid.

 

TRWXXA

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Mar 29, 2008

#5

• Mar 29, 2008

• #5

Do you have an aftermarket starter relay? The Motorcraft ones have longer threaded studs then the ones I've seen from parts stores.

If you still need to to make room on the stud for the new alternator wires, you could run one 10 ga. wire, with terminal ring, from the relay to a distribution block or insulated power stud, like this

, then hook the power window, EEC, and old alternator wires to it. Mount the distibution block or stud close to the relay, and all the wires should reach it.

Just one solution to consider.

 

HISSIN50

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#6

• Mar 29, 2008

• #6

TRWXXA said:

Do you have an aftermarket starter relay? The Motorcraft ones have longer threaded studs then the ones I've seen from parts stores.

If you still need to to make room on the stud for the new alternator wires, you could run one 10 ga. wire, with terminal ring, from the relay to a distribution block or insulated power stud, like this

, then hook the power window, EEC, and old alternator wires to it. Mount the distibution block or stud close to the relay, and all the wires should reach it.

Click to expand...

A block like this is a nice way to do it. I would use a larger jumper cable however.



One note to TRWXXA: I'd suggest making a note about that alternator statement. Someone might not realize that you meant to do this if you have a 3G and do not have the alternator-side of those charge-wires connected. Otherwise, if those stock charge-wires are carrying any alternator load, the 10 AWG jumper wire [between the stud and solenoid] could become an issue.

We all knew what contingencies you had in mind, but it's nice to be real explicit for those who are not as familiar with the logistics.

 

Shakerhood

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Mar 30, 2008

#7

• Mar 30, 2008

• #7

I have thought about taking the Nut to the Hardware store and buying a couple that are thinner, then there will be enough room on the Stud.

 

Fett

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Nov 2, 2004

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Mar 30, 2008

#8

• Mar 30, 2008

• #8

Chevy uses a nice junction block on some of their cars. It is a red, covered, two stud block, with a flip open top. Looks very clean.

 

TRWXXA

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Mar 30, 2008

#9

• Mar 30, 2008

• #9

HISSIN50 said:

One note to TRWXXA: I'd suggest making a note about that alternator statement. Someone might not realize that you meant to do this if you have a 3G and do not have the alternator-side of those charge-wires connected. Otherwise, if those stock charge-wires are carrying any alternator load, the 10 AWG jumper wire [between the stud and solenoid] could become an issue.

We all knew what contingencies you had in mind, but it's nice to be real explicit for those who are not as familiar with the logistics.

Click to expand...

Good point!

I assumed everyone would understand that:

A.) This is for the 3G conversion with wiring upgrade.

and

B.) They should NEVER use the factory power wires when doing the upgrade.

But I realize that if I A-S-S-U-M-E this, someone will make an A-S-S out of... THEMSELVES by not reading any of the 192,328 threads on how to do the 3G conversion.