Steering/ Suspension Suggestions/ Opinions

[88ponyGTconv]

Installed the aluminum drive shaft and the severe "clicking", squeaking and vibration seemed to go away completely. The new shaft was a HUGE improvement, but there still seemed to be a slight "clicking" sound. I was out this morning running my kids around and decided to stop into a trusted tire and wheel shop, so we could put her up on a lift and get under it. We go from one end to the other and when we grab the front tires, we are able to rattle them around pretty good. As many times as I have had her up on jack stands, somehow i had never bothered to try to wriggle the front tires. The rack and outter tie rods are toast.
My question:
Go back with OEM or do you guys have some other suggestions? The long term goal is to get to 350+HP.
Thanks!
-Kevin

 

[MFE92]

I don't know where you're located, but if you're anywhere near a big city, you probably have a local rack rebuilder who can replace the inner tie rods and rebuild YOUR rack so you don't have to play the parts store lottery. Outer tie rod ends, whatever. Pick one and don't pay the lowest price.

 

[88ponyGTconv]

Thoughts?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Why not just replace the inner and outer tie rods? Pretty easy, and it's a dry process.

I personally wouldn't do a manual rack on a street driven car, and not 20:1. Great for drag cars, but for cruising around I'd stick to a 15:1 rack.

If you want to put some $$$ into this, SN95 rack swap and max Motorsports solid steering shaft.


However, you can prob replace the inner and outer tie rods for less than $50

 

[90sickfox]

I got a ( quick ratio ) rack for my car years ago ( from Advance Auto ) and would never look back. I no longer have to really move the steering wheel to change lanes and the steering response feels great. I'd also recommend getting a 3/4 inch 36 spline by 3/4 DD universal joint to replace the rag joint. I had my stock shaft machined and drilled and it turned out great.