Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

a91what · Jul 24, 2016

As long as you know that wled is the pin your wired to all that needs to be done is to set the port option "wled" to run the fan.....

So to make it clear as mud.....
Wire the fan relay ground to the wled pin.

Go into the programmable input/output menu select the wled port path and input your settings. If in doubt you can hookup a test light and program the output to tps>20 this should let you test the output pin with the gas pedal as a switch (koeo)

a91what · Jul 24, 2016

DarrenKK said:
Thanks for the input guys the documentation it came with is what is vague regarding the options port as it doesn't outline all of the pins, it tells what is what but knowing which pin is WLED doesn't really tell me if its considered to be "output1" in TS, it seems (naturally) that there is more detail on the build it yourself units in areas like this.

This may well be a thing that is worthy of an email to DIYAutotune's support department, so I'll do that and report back, I really appreciate all of the help.

Oh and @a91what the first startup today didn't yield any dying and only some surging at first, I did notice that when it surges and the rpm gets really low its going max lean, I did set the timing table to 16° on the cells around idle and it showed to be within those areas.

next time you are going to start the car cold begin the datalog first then fire the engine up. once you have captured the log file with the AFR during the surge and after it has warmed up a bit go thru the log slowly and find the rpm/ kpa value that goes super lean.... then add fuel to that area.... the surge is caused by large swings in afr or timing during startup, this will become a lesser issue as the tables get more accurate. I have only recently [after tuning my own car for months] got my monster to start and idle perfectly with no hunting or any hiccups with just a turn of the key.

DarrenKK · Jul 25, 2016

Well DIYAutotune responded pretty quickly for me from none other than Matt Cramer himself, here's his response....

WLED is Output 2 and ALED is Output 1. The connector will supply ground.

Thanks,

Matt Cramer
DIYAutoTune.com support

I was close but had ALED and WLED backwards but I suppose this doesn't necessarily prove that the info was left out but I'm betting it is since I couldn't find it and he didn't point it out.

And thanks again Steve for your input above, I'll keep at it.

hoopty5.0 · Jul 28, 2016

Hey Steve -

I'm currently building another MS DIYPNP for a local guy. Last night I was building the jumpers from the main to the adapter boards and noticed the instructions differed from how mine on my car was built.

Mine: IGN1 on main board runs to pin 36 on the adapter board.

New one: IGN1 on main board runs to the IGN in the TFI area.

Do I follow the instructions as they are written, or do I build it like I did mine because I know it works?

a91what · Jul 28, 2016

Use the IGN in the TFI area.

The new boards have the TFI circuit built in the breakout board. I think it's then routed over to pin 36 in the board traces. I know the one I built has the TFI circuit on the breakout.

hoopty5.0 · Jul 28, 2016

a91what said:
Use the IGN in the TFI area.

The new boards have the TFI circuit built in the breakout board. I think it's then routed over to pin 36 in the board traces. I know the one I built has the TFI circuit on the breakout.

That's what I figured, just hoped you would agree, haha. Makes me want to crack mine open now and see what's there. It was only a few months ago that I built it.

a91what · Jul 28, 2016

Well I shouldn't say built-in. You actually build the tfi circuit on the breakout board

hoopty5.0 · Jul 29, 2016

I finished up building another DIYPNP for a buddy last night. I think I may start doing these on the side for extra cash as it was pointed out it was easier and pays better than digging holes. I couldn't argue that.

a91what · Jul 29, 2016

lol I'm doing the same thing for guys here around Tampa FL. Not just for mustangs either, you can make a small fortune building these for Honda guys.

90sickfox · Jul 29, 2016

I don't have the patience to stare through a magnifying glass that long.

Boosted92LX · Jul 29, 2016

a91what said:
lol I'm doing the same thing for guys here around Tampa FL. Not just for mustangs either, you can make a small fortune building these for Honda guys.

Selling false hope to Honda guys... You should be ashamed of yourself!

BranSVT · Aug 4, 2016

Hey guys,
I built a DIYPNP earlier this year for my SN95 1994 5.0 Cobra because the stock ECU was piggybacked with an outdated AutoLogic chip that can no longer be tuned (also has been running lean, losing power when warm, etc...).
Specs are:

Original 302 Block
Original Cobra Upper & Lower Intake
SVO Aluminum Heads (I think I have aftermarket 1.6 RRs)
Mild Cam (I dont know cam specs)
BBK Shorty Equal Length Headers, BBK H-Pipe, Flowmaster Super 44 Mufflers
BBK Cold Air Intake
New Spectra Distributor
MSD Street Fire Coil

I started tuning around April/May and have since put it off because of work.
I had idle hunting issues with my tune. I'm trying to figure out ASE and WUE so i can get it to idle smoothly.
Can someone look over my .msq file settings (94CobraEdited1.21.msq) and let me know if everything is set right so I can start tuning again?
I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

a91what · Aug 4, 2016

Ase does not need any adjustment from the base tune.

Wue is only for warm up. And should only be tuned after the car is idling correctly warm.

BranSVT · Aug 4, 2016

I see. What about hunting? What could cause that? I'll get a log up as soon as possible.

a91what · Aug 4, 2016

A lot of things can cause a hunting idle the air fuel ratio could be too lean swinging timing curve or even overly aggressive closed loop idle settings. I'm at work right now so I can only guess as to the problems but as much tuning is I've done with this system nine times out of ten it's all about timing and air fuel ratio your air fuel in idle should be around 13.6 13.8 you're going to want to change your ignition settings curve that way your timing stays the same from 500 RPM to 1000 RPM set the kPa Benz from 70 all the way down to 30 between these two RPM points about 16 degrees of timing should settle everything down

BranSVT · Aug 4, 2016

No problem, thanks for taking the time to answer. I'll adjust the tune asap.

DarrenKK · Aug 4, 2016

I've still been working on things as well. I successfully got my cooling fan con trolled by the MSPNP2 and I got the settings the way I like them. Here's another log file for your viewing pleasure.

@a91what If I am to solve the going rich at idle when the fan kicks on am I going to have to use table switching to fix that?

a91what · Aug 5, 2016

NO.....

the kpa blocks above the idle range are the issue, when the fan kicks on the engine load increases which causes a drop in vacuum/rpm.... I suggest using the IDLE ADVANCE... set it to adder, set the curve to add a degree or two of timing as the rpms drop and take a degree out as the rpm rises.. [ so like this timing 2 rpm -150 timing 0 rpm 0 timing -2 rpm 150]
this will have the effect of adjusting the timing with load on the idle curve, Link this to CL PID so it will use your CL idle rpm target to adjust the timing.

I will look thru all the posted logs later today.

stangboy · Aug 5, 2016

a91what said:
lol I'm doing the same thing for guys here around Tampa FL. Not just for mustangs either, you can make a small fortune building these for Honda guys.

How much do you charge to build one? I'm already planning to get one in the future(in a year or so). I was gonna buy the MSPNP and just roll with that but with turbos dancing around in my dreams I may need one built to handle that. I'm not the guy to build it tho. Electronics aren't my cup-o-tea.

a91what · Aug 5, 2016

stangboy said:
How much do you charge to build one? I'm already planning to get one in the future(in a year or so). I was gonna buy the MSPNP and just roll with that but with turbos dancing around in my dreams I may need one built to handle that. I'm not the guy to build it tho. Electronics aren't my cup-o-tea.

a MS pnp can and will handle anything you throw at it. In fact it is what I use in my car. I run boost and use the MS to control fans, shift light, launch control, it also has a built in boost control circuit.

I would charge you 200$ to build a pnp unit with options.
that would include pinning it out for any extra outputs/ inputs you want. the options pigtail would be labeled so its no fuss to wire, with instructions as to which outputs they are wired to.

still saves you 300

Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

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