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Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

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a91what

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#261
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  • #261
In reality these things are very simple to build.. if you can paint by numbers you can build one of these units. all the parts are bagged and labeled, the board has all the part names printed on it..
the instructions say place a 1k resistor in slot R12, so you take a 1k resistor out of the 1k resistor bag.... and place it in slot R12... then solder...

its dummy proof. a 7yr old built one and the car ran
 
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stangboy

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#262
  • Aug 5, 2016
  • #262
a91what said:
a MS pnp can and will handle anything you throw at it. In fact it is what I use in my car. I run boost and use the MS to control fans, shift light, launch control, it also has a built in boost control circuit.

I would charge you 200$ to build a pnp unit with options.
that would include pinning it out for any extra outputs/ inputs you want. the options pigtail would be labeled so its no fuss to wire, with instructions as to which outputs they are wired to.

still saves you 300
Click to expand...
So all I have to get is the MSPnP and I should be good? No building involved, right?
 

a91what

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stangboy said:
So all I have to get is the MSPnP and I should be good? No building involved, right?
Click to expand...
that's correct.
but the diypnp costs a significantly less
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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If I order the diypnp and attempt to do it.....and it turns into a failure....how much would you charge me to finish it ? Lol, seriously though.

I'm on the fence about building or buying. If you will do one for me and save me mooolaaah it would be awesome.

Steve, you know I've been debating about this for a while. I trust your judgment, man. Thanks for this thread.
 

stangboy

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a91what said:
that's correct.
but the diypnp costs a significantly less
Click to expand...
Oh ok. So how does it plug into the stock harness?
 

a91what

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it literally plugs in where the factory ecu plugs in. The only issue is that the Ford 60 pin connector is no longer available. so you will need to desolder one from an ecu....

there are connector options on ebay
 

a91what

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90sickfox said:
If I order the diypnp and attempt to do it.....and it turns into a failure....how much would you charge me to finish it ? Lol, seriously though.

I'm on the fence about building or buying. If you will do one for me and save me mooolaaah it would be awesome.

Steve, you know I've been debating about this for a while. I trust your judgment, man. Thanks for this thread.
Click to expand...
You wont screw it up I have been following your work and you will do just fine. I can and will help you with the parts of the ecu buildout that are non-standard. This is what really makes it worth it. I deleted my maf, so I used some of the maf pins to trigger my cooling fan relays high/low speed. I used a pin in the diagnostic connector to trigger a cowl mounted led as a shift light.. conversely you could just use the check engine light and install one of those obscenely bright led bulbs. The clutch signal wire was pinned into the ecu so I could use the launch control function...

This thing can do COP, EDIS.... the options are many
 
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90sickfox

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I'm not going to use a maf either. I will be using a knock sensor, turbo, cry O2, launch control, that's all I can think of. I'm sure MS can do that. I've got a spare 60 pin. The knock sensor concerns me. Do you have an idea of what I need to run it ? Also need a earphone jack installed in my MS.
 

Sparky714

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#269
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  • #269
stangboy said:
Oh ok. So how does it plug into the stock harness?
Click to expand...
You remove the stock ecu and plug it in in its place
 

a91what

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  • Aug 5, 2016
  • #270
BranSVT said:
Hey guys,
I built a DIYPNP earlier this year for my SN95 1994 5.0 Cobra because the stock ECU was piggybacked with an outdated AutoLogic chip that can no longer be tuned (also has been running lean, losing power when warm, etc...).
Specs are:
  • Original 302 Block
  • Original Cobra Upper & Lower Intake
  • SVO Aluminum Heads (I think I have aftermarket 1.6 RRs)
  • Mild Cam (I dont know cam specs)
  • BBK Shorty Equal Length Headers, BBK H-Pipe, Flowmaster Super 44 Mufflers
  • BBK Cold Air Intake
  • New Spectra Distributor
  • MSD Street Fire Coil
I started tuning around April/May and have since put it off because of work.
I had idle hunting issues with my tune. I'm trying to figure out ASE and WUE so i can get it to idle smoothly.
Can someone look over my .msq file settings (94CobraEdited1.21.msq) and let me know if everything is set right so I can start tuning again?
I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Click to expand...
This tune file is fubar.

here is a new one.
BranSVT said:
Hey guys,
I built a DIYPNP earlier this year for my SN95 1994 5.0 Cobra because the stock ECU was piggybacked with an outdated AutoLogic chip that can no longer be tuned (also has been running lean, losing power when warm, etc...).
Specs are:
  • Original 302 Block
  • Original Cobra Upper & Lower Intake
  • SVO Aluminum Heads (I think I have aftermarket 1.6 RRs)
  • Mild Cam (I dont know cam specs)
  • BBK Shorty Equal Length Headers, BBK H-Pipe, Flowmaster Super 44 Mufflers
  • BBK Cold Air Intake
  • New Spectra Distributor
  • MSD Street Fire Coil
I started tuning around April/May and have since put it off because of work.
I had idle hunting issues with my tune. I'm trying to figure out ASE and WUE so i can get it to idle smoothly.
Can someone look over my .msq file settings (94CobraEdited1.21.msq) and let me know if everything is set right so I can start tuning again?
I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Try this out. Your tune was completely FUBAR!!!

I rebuilt your tune file for you from scratch. it will probably be lean to start with if the car does not start bring up the ve table and add 20% fuel to every bin until it starts. [do this by highlighting the table and using the multiplication key on the ve table tool bar input 1.2 and this will add 20% fuel..... multiplying by .8 would be removing 20%]

does this car have a wideband hooked up?? if so did you wire it in the the MS the software needs a WB to really do its job. You also need to calibrate the WB in the TS tools menu so it knows what the voltage outputs from the WB mean.
 

Attachments

  • sending BranSVT a tune..msq
    sending BranSVT a tune..msq
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a91what

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#271
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  • #271
DarrenKK said:
I've still been working on things as well. I successfully got my cooling fan con trolled by the MSPNP2 and I got the settings the way I like them. Here's another log file for your viewing pleasure.

@a91what If I am to solve the going rich at idle when the fan kicks on am I going to have to use table switching to fix that?
Click to expand...
You are idling super lean after WUE shuts down at 145* you go from a very stable AFR of 13.8 to the high 14-15 AFR range.. that's to lean to idle cars don't like that causes the idle to hunt around.
 

a91what

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#272
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  • #272
90sickfox said:
I'm not going to use a maf either. I will be using a knock sensor, turbo, cry O2, launch control, that's all I can think of. I'm sure MS can do that. I've got a spare 60 pin. The knock sensor concerns me. Do you have an idea of what I need to run it ? Also need a earphone jack installed in my MS.
Click to expand...
Knock sensor is part of the standard diypnp build out. you will need to install the ear phone jack but I believe diyautotune has a kit you can purchase.
To be honest I'm not sure you are going to need one though unless you plan to run the car on the edge. I simply setup tables to pull timing out as manifold temps increase. you can also pull timing with engine temp. or both. reading plugs is a simple thing
 

BranSVT

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#273
  • Aug 5, 2016
  • #273
a91what said:
This tune file is fubar.

here is a new one.

Try this out. Your tune was completely FUBAR!!!

I rebuilt your tune file for you from scratch. it will probably be lean to start with if the car does not start bring up the ve table and add 20% fuel to every bin until it starts. [do this by highlighting the table and using the multiplication key on the ve table tool bar input 1.2 and this will add 20% fuel..... multiplying by .8 would be removing 20%]

does this car have a wideband hooked up?? if so did you wire it in the the MS the software needs a WB to really do its job. You also need to calibrate the WB in the TS tools menu so it knows what the voltage outputs from the WB mean.
Click to expand...
Oh wow. I didn't realize it! Thanks for fixing it for me! Yes, I have a dual wideband setup, and they are calibrated in TS. I'll try the tune out and get a log.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#274
  • Aug 5, 2016
  • #274
a91what said:
Knock sensor is part of the standard diypnp build out. you will need to install the ear phone jack but I believe diyautotune has a kit you can purchase.
To be honest I'm not sure you are going to need one though unless you plan to run the car on the edge. I simply setup tables to pull timing out as manifold temps increase. you can also pull timing with engine temp. or both. reading plugs is a simple thing
Click to expand...
The knock sensor can pull timing faster than the o2 sensors.... I believe. Its also supposed to adjust the tune for different octane levels. Plus, I like to watch the graph.

The knock sensor isn't a necessity for me but I have one....and seeing how hard they are to find....figured I'd use it. I'll only be running 5 to 7 psi though. That'll put me just under or over 500hp. The motor is a 331 stroker with trick flow heads and a comp xe282hr cam. Its just over 400 by itself. ( supposedly )

Might be too much noise for a knock sensor to read reliable. ;shrug

I could also put a do- hicky in the wire to the knock sensor and make an ear phone jack. They are piezoelectric sensors....I could wire in a cheap oscilloscope and mount it in my glove box ; shrug

You're the MS guru....if you still say its not needed, well by golly, I'll have to alter my plans. [emoji418]
 

a91what

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#275
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  • #275
90sickfox said:
The knock sensor can pull timing faster than the o2 sensors.... I believe. Its also supposed to adjust the tune for different octane levels. Plus, I like to watch the graph.

The knock sensor isn't a necessity for me but I have one....and seeing how hard they are to find....figured I'd use it. I'll only be running 5 to 7 psi though. That'll put me just under or over 500hp. The motor is a 331 stroker with trick flow heads and a comp xe282hr cam. Its just over 400 by itself. ( supposedly )

Might be too much noise for a knock sensor to read reliable. ;shrug

I could also put a do- hicky in the wire to the knock sensor and make an ear phone jack. They are piezoelectric sensors....I could wire in a cheap oscilloscope and mount it in my glove box ; shrug

You're the MS guru....if you still say its not needed, well by golly, I'll have to alter my plans. [emoji418]
Click to expand...
you wont pull timing with the o2's lol... this system is great you can set the timing curve up NA then just have it pull timing as the boost comes in. I pull 1* per pound. but from what I have read a Intercooled Centri does not need to pull any timing until over 10psi
 
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a91what

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#276
  • Aug 5, 2016
  • #276
BranSVT said:
Oh wow. I didn't realize it! Thanks for fixing it for me! Yes, I have a dual wideband setup, and they are calibrated in TS. I'll try the tune out and get a log.
Click to expand...
Hey I didn't know that, cool. In your EGO settings under the fuel menu set your ego sensor settings to dual WB. right now I have you setup as single. you will need to tell MS where the second WB is ported too.. [if you don't know its probably in the documentation that was provided with your MS system].

You may want to review some earlier pages in this thread I have videos posted with some basic tuning tips
 

BranSVT

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#277
  • Aug 5, 2016
  • #277
a91what said:
Hey I didn't know that, cool. In your EGO settings under the fuel menu set your ego sensor settings to dual WB. right now I have you setup as single. you will need to tell MS where the second WB is ported too.. [if you don't know its probably in the documentation that was provided with your MS system].

You may want to review some earlier pages in this thread I have videos posted with some basic tuning tips
Click to expand...
Yea I had it set to dual WB. But as of now I'm only tuning with one table. Ill definitely check those vids out.
 
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a91what

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#278
  • Aug 5, 2016
  • #278
BranSVT said:
Yea I had it set to dual WB. But as of now I'm only tuning with one table. Ill definitely check those vids out.
Click to expand...
that will simplify the process until you get familiar with the system. The way I set you up you should be able [once the car is warm] to simply start the auto tune and let it tune for you.
find it here.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#279
  • Aug 6, 2016
  • #279
a91what said:
you wont pull timing with the o2's lol... this system is great you can set the timing curve up NA then just have it pull timing as the boost comes in. I pull 1* per pound. but from what I have read a Intercooled Centri does not need to pull any timing until over 10psi
Click to expand...
Under a knock or ping situation the computer will retard timing. Thought a lean condition would cause the ecu to retard timing because lean conditions cause ping....guess it would just richen the fuel. It wouldn't know it was pinging....

Man, I was half asleep when I wrote that and my wife was having a full-on conversation with herself..... [emoji85]
 
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DarrenKK

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  • #280
@a91what Here's another log, forgive me I was making a few adjustments during it. Also I have added screenshots of a few things I changed I went to my AFR table and changed the idle area from 14.7:1 to 13.6:1 and I also took shots of the advance idle settings, I'm certain I'm missing something here but it didn't seem to work but I wasn't sure where to add the timing changes? I think possibly it could be that I need to turn on secondary ignition load?(see screenshot)
 

Attachments

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    2016-08-06_16.18.56.msl
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  • advidle.webp
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  • afrtable.webp
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  • 2ndryigld.webp
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