Speaking of which, I checked mine today for the first time since I bought the car, and didn't know anybody with a timing light. It was set at 26 degrees! Some how the car was running alright at that timing, but it does run smoother now.
Speaking of which, I checked mine today for the first time since I bought the car, and didn't know anybody with a timing light. It was set at 26 degrees! Some how the car was running alright at that timing, but it does run smoother now.
was the spout out when you tested it? was the car running with locked timing. i cant imagine you backed it off 16* and it ran decent both ways.
if this sounds surprising to you, check the balancer. when the elastomer degrades, the outer ring (with your timing marks) slips and you will often get funky timing readings.
Speaking of which, I checked mine today for the first time since I bought the car, and didn't know anybody with a timing light. It was set at 26 degrees! Some how the car was running alright at that timing, but it does run smoother now.
Stock timing is 10 degrees btdc with the spout removed and the engine completely warm and at idle. Plug the spout back in and the computer will usually add something on the order of 8 to 12 degrees advance to that initial setting - for a reading of 18-22 btdc. If someone had set the initial timing to 14-16 btdc, then I can see a spout-in idle reading of 26 btdc. That's about where mine reads - with 16-18 degrees of initial advance. No detonation at all running 87 octane in the middle of the summer. But that doesn't mean they'll all work that way or tolerate that much timing.
Yes. Every car is different. Every car reacts differently with timing. I have seen cars run as high as 19 degrees(not stock) and they run best. If I put mine anything over 11 degrees with 93 it pings so....