I might look into the tfs1. Im really just going for something that pushes close to 375hp. Just to have fun in maybe run low 12s in the quarter mile. Right now I'm basing most of my build off amarican muscles 93 fox build.
I might look into the tfs1. Im really just going for something that pushes close to 375hp. Just to have fun in maybe run low 12s in the quarter mile. Right now I'm basing most of my build off amarican muscles 93 fox build.It's an "ok" cam. There are better, a popular off the shelf cam is a TFS1. Or you can spend more money and go custom. It all depends on your goals for the car. Do you want max HP? Fun street car? Hitting the track? Plenty of guys run the E cam and love it.
I might look into the tfs1. Im really just going for something that pushes close to 375hp. Just to have fun in maybe run low 12s in the quarter mile. Right now I'm basing most of my build off amarican muscles 93 fox build.It's an "ok" cam. There are better, a popular off the shelf cam is a TFS1. Or you can spend more money and go custom. It all depends on your goals for the car. Do you want max HP? Fun street car? Hitting the track? Plenty of guys run the E cam and love it.
375 at the flywheel or to the wheels? Most aluminum HCI combos (heads, cam, intake) will take a 5 spd fox to about 300 rwhp. If you get more than that it's due to a max effort build (porting, custom cam, aggressive tune, etc).I might look into the tfs1. Im really just going for something that pushes close to 375hp. Just to have fun in maybe run low 12s in the quarter mile. Right now I'm basing most of my build off amarican muscles 93 fox build.
Hold off on heads/cam/intake until you have figured out where exactly you are headed.
Before all that... well, in order to make all that work right... you need a fuel pump, exhaust, sub frame connectors, good idea to throw a clutch/quadrant/adjuster and firewall reinforcement in it...
The list of little things will eat you up.
Back in the day, I was running 12.9's out here in the crappy desert with many of the little things, and nothing else. Stock motor /full weight street car... and it took 4.10's to get there. I really liked my 3.73's, but the 4.10's got me into the 12's... and it was my daily driver back then.
Sure was fun beating up on heads/cam/intake cars.
Build a foundation, research, learn, and spend money once on the top end.
Here are some ideasThanks for the tips. Im kinda to the point where I want to regear. I'm not quite sure how I want to take my build anymore. I know I want to go faster than stock but I'm kind of intimidated by all of the upgrading. I don't have a lot of experience. I might try a simple bolt on throttle body (probably wont do a ton for what i'm trying)
I can get some pics of the engine. I pretty much concluded the Stang is stock right down to the factory stainless steel exhaust
Thanks for all this. It will help a lotHere are some ideas
Subframe connectors (SFC's) full length ones are prefered for a stiff chasis
2) Gears: 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 seem to be the popular choices
3) For AOD people: Get a higher stall converter and a shift kit! (don't forget the Tranny cooler)
4) Full Exhuast (headers, hi-flo cats, catback w/ mufflers)
5) Buy a K&N panel filter (no CAI kit required) and put it in the stock box
6) Bumped timing to 12 - 14 degrees (free mod) 10 Degrees is stock.
7) Larger MAF, TB (MAF cars from 1988 california only, 1989-1993)
8) Better Intake Manifold or a Ported one
9) 3G alternator upgrade / electric fan
10) Fix the stock brakes.
Optional MODs:
11) Strut tower brace (necessary on Convertibles IMO)
12) Underdrive pullies (they can't be used on S/C motors and cause charging problems)
13) Weight reduction out of the nose of the car
14) Shocks/Struts and lowering springs
15) C/C plates if you lower the car
16) Short throw shifter (if you have a manual transmission)
17) Cleaning or replacing all of the sensors (TPS, IAC, etc. - not a mod but it helps)
After those basic mods it will be pretty much up to you to pick a final direction for your car. There are plenty of Super Chargers or H/C/I [Heads, Cam and Intake] packages to choose from to really wake up the car.
Also, don't forget about the basic tune up
1) Changing all of the fluids (oil, coolant, trans, rear end, brake and some of the power steering)
2) Plugs: (non-platnum type) Autolite or Motorcraft are prefered
3) Oil filter: Motorcraft or equivalent (not FRAM)
4) Air filter: see first mods item #4
5) Plug wires: Ford Motorsport (FRPP) 9mm units are great
6) Cap / Rotor
7)
Well I placed my first order on American Muscle . I went with some super simple stuff that I know I can do. First thing I bought was a BBK 70 mm TB. and then I went kinda cheap with a SR performance Short Throw shifter. I figured It start pushing me in the right direction. I want to regear but I still don't know if Im up for the challenge. Im going to call some local shops about the diff rebuild. That is definitely out of my league lol. Oh I also plan onpicking up a K&N filter tonight at walmartHere are some ideas
Subframe connectors (SFC's) full length ones are prefered for a stiff chasis
2) Gears: 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 seem to be the popular choices
3) For AOD people: Get a higher stall converter and a shift kit! (don't forget the Tranny cooler)
4) Full Exhaust (headers, hi-flo cats, catback w/ mufflers)
5) Buy a K&N panel filter (no CAI kit required) and put it in the stock box
6) Bumped timing to 12 - 14 degrees (free mod) 10 Degrees is stock.
7) Larger MAF, TB (MAF cars from 1988 california only, 1989-1993)
8) Better Intake Manifold or a Ported one
9) 3G alternator upgrade / electric fan
10) Fix the stock brakes.
Optional MODs:
11) Strut tower brace (necessary on Convertibles IMO)
12) Underdrive pullies (they can't be used on S/C motors and cause charging problems)
13) Weight reduction out of the nose of the car
14) Shocks/Struts and lowering springs
15) C/C plates if you lower the car
16) Short throw shifter (if you have a manual transmission)
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