Subframe connector question

[B0udreaux]

Looking to install subframe connectors in my ‘86 gt hatchback.

Looking to order them and see a large price variance. The SVE ones on LMR are like $130ish, whereas the steeda ones are like $250ish.

Are the steeda ones higher in quality to the point where double the price is justified? Am I foolish getting the cheaper one or is it basically the same and I’m paying for the steeda name…I’m okay to spend more if it’s not just for vanity.

If it matters I’m not going for a hardcore racing build, just spirited street driving and restomodding.

As a secondary question: for what I’m doing are subframe connectors enough? If I can afford it should I do the strut tower brace and torque boxes too, or is that overkill and only really for people boosting HP massively? If, down the road I decide I want more stiffness is it easy enough to do down the road, or should I do it all at once?

 

[limp]

Looking to install subframe connectors in my ‘86 gt hatchback.

Looking to order them and see a large price variance. The SVE ones on LMR are like $130ish, whereas the steeda ones are like $250ish.

Are the steeda ones higher in quality to the point where double the price is justified? Am I foolish getting the cheaper one or is it basically the same and I’m paying for the steeda name…I’m okay to spend more if it’s not just for vanity.

If it matters I’m not going for a hardcore racing build, just spirited street driving and restomodding.

As a secondary question: for what I’m doing are subframe connectors enough? If I can afford it should I do the strut tower brace and torque boxes too, or is that overkill and only really for people boosting HP massively? If, down the road I decide I want more stiffness is it easy enough to do down the road, or should I do it all at once?

Maximum Motorsports in mine..

 

[gkomo]

Don't quote me, but the SVE connectors may be made of thinner metal compared to Steeda/Griggs/Maximum Motorsports/etc (the higher priced ones).

Whether it will make a big difference in your application and use case i'm not too sure.

I also run the Maximum Motorsports full length connectors.

Can you weld or have a welding hookup? The installation of my connectors FAR exceeded the cost of the connectors themselves. But that is a skill i don't have so i gotta pay for it.

 

[Noobz347]

Here is an article from the MM website that may help you decide:

Why should subframe connectors be the first upgrade to my Mustang?

 

[Warhorse Racing]

Full transparency, I haven't personally used the SVE subframe connectors you're considering. I looked at the photos and description on LMR's website and two things stood out: (1) The SVE subframe connectors are listed as having a bare finish. (2) The design requires more welding than the Stifflers subframe connectors I've used on two of my autocross cars. The Stifflers subframe connectors are $190 and they come with a powder coat finish that is pre-masked to make prepping them for installation easier. Some painting is needed after they are welded in place, but not nearly as much as with the SVE connectors.

I've been extremely happy with the Stifflers subframe connectors. In my opinion, they're a better overall bang-for-buck choice than the SVE version.

 

[LILCBRA]

I bought some cheap subframe connectors a few years ago, though I don't remember if they were SVE or some other variant. I never had them installed as the project was on the back burner for forever. I recently bought a set of Stiffler's because I really think I want to go with their FIT web braces for my vert. I just went out to the garage and took a couple side by sides for you. The "other" brand is smaller in every dimension except maybe wall thickness, I didn't measure to know. But the Stiffler's are also pre-bent to follow the floor pans more closely whereas the "other" brand is just a flat tube the full length. There is definitely more "beef" to the Stiffler's product than there is to the "other" brand. I'm gifting the "other" brand to my brother for his T-top car - they've got to be better than not having them at all - but I'd bet that the Stiffler's product would work better for heavier duty use.

 

[LILCBRA]

If it matters I’m not going for a hardcore racing build, just spirited street driving and restomodding.

As a secondary question: for what I’m doing are subframe connectors enough? If I can afford it should I do the strut tower brace and torque boxes too, or is that overkill and only really for people boosting HP massively? If, down the road I decide I want more stiffness is it easy enough to do down the road, or should I do it all at once?

Oh, and my opinion here - I'd spend the money on subframe connectors first. That should tighten the whole car up and most likely make a noticeable difference. A strut tower brace would probably be my 2nd choice afterward, just because of it's ease of installation, then I'd go for torque box reinforcements. And you can most certainly do this all in steps, imo there's really no big need to tackle them all at once for a street car.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Maximum Motorsports or Global West. Have heard great things about the Steedas as well. There was a thread on here about the wall thicknesses of several brands and firmament. I’ll see if I cannot dig that one up.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Post #16 but the whole thread is really good.

Suspension Thread 'What about these Subframes'

Jan 30, 2025

Wondering if they should be fine to use? My car is just a weekend mostly driving street car, no track and it gets driven normal more than I dawg my cars but I do have fun with them from time to time. Building a 331 stroker now for it and with my combo expecting somewhere around 330 to 360 whp.

The price at $85 is right vs the $140 I spent on the I believe Sve ones I put on the 94 back in around '21 '22 and they look the same lol..

For Ford Mustang 1979-2004 Black Subframe Connectors Full Length Raw #555-5245 | eBay

For Ford Mustang 1979-2004. Color: Black. Part Number: Replace for 555-5245. Installation：Easy to install, ensuring a hassle-free installation process. We will reply you in 24 hours. Surface Finish: Powder Coated.

www.ebay.com

• from6to8
• Replies: 55
• Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

 

[rednotch]

Post #16 but the whole thread is really good.

https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/what-about-these-subframes.929298/[/EMBE

I bought those on temu since they where pretty much free with there promos they run, just threw it in a order to meet the min. Spend since I was getting everything but the sales tax back. , they currently have $200 back on a $200.01 purchases if you can catch them, but there designed to trick you and hope ppl fail them so make sure read all the dumb rules if you use the app, I use it for cheapy Amazon type tools and supplies but you do see some of the China sourced mustang junk on it now and then.


There not bad, decent coating, ends are not capped but for sub $100 you can fix that when welding them up, has the torque box side plating also. there less that $62 shipped on temu with no promo.. There chilling in my shed for now, when snow clears up I can snag some pic if need be.

 

[7-UP BILL]

Ive had Kenny Brown subframe connectors for 30 years on my car. had then
m welded on. they were also zinc oxided coated. They still look like the day they were installed. Kennys son Paul runs HPM motorsports and they have the original design ones. Not sure if Paul went to Gasoline Alley after Kenny passed, but you can look them up.

 

[B0udreaux]

Don't quote me, but the SVE connectors may be made of thinner metal compared to Steeda/Griggs/Maximum Motorsports/etc (the higher priced ones).

Whether it will make a big difference in your application and use case i'm not too sure.

I also run the Maximum Motorsports full length connectors.

Can you weld or have a welding hookup? The installation of my connectors FAR exceeded the cost of the connectors themselves. But that is a skill i don't have so i gotta pay for it.

Yeah, I have a shop guy who can weld them if I bring them in.

I ended up going with the steeda ones, it looked like the choice was between the cheap ones, then like 4 other brands in the same range.

The only difference I see myself from the item descriptions are that one is one inch by two(cheaper ones) and the other is one and a half by two…which tbh doesn’t mean that much to me, like, I know what the numbers represent dimension wise, but no clue on the impact of the half inch difference. Only one of them mentioned wall thickness. So ‍idk really.

However, seeing one at such a low price point and then like five others all similarly priced said to me to get the more pricey ones, and steeda was the name I recognized so I went there.

Excited to get this in the past so I can move on to suspension questions and beyond!

Thank you!

 

[KRUISR]

I made my own with two 4 foot pieces of 1x2x 0.100 tubing. Bent them to follow the floor pan. Added a piece of angle iron to each to pick up the seat mounts. Welded in place. Cost - approx. $50 in materials and a few hours. Will be building the same for my son's car shortly and will document the process in the build thread.

 

[Noobz347]

Bent them to follow the floor pan.

What did you use to do this?

I was thinking about getting a bender that can do square tube.

 

[KRUISR]

25 years ago my brother bought a bender like this - I don't remember what tonnage it is. I use the die that the rectangle tube just fits within the vertical sides. I set the two other rollers close to the middle if I recall. I am not putting a huge bend on the rectangle tubing (17 degrees total if I remember the Mathis book numbers off the top of my head) so other than the bend it doesn't deform my subframe connector - or at least it didn't 10 years ago when I bent the ones for my car.

 

[B0udreaux]

Post #16 but the whole thread is really good.

Suspension Thread 'What about these Subframes'

Jan 30, 2025

Wondering if they should be fine to use? My car is just a weekend mostly driving street car, no track and it gets driven normal more than I dawg my cars but I do have fun with them from time to time. Building a 331 stroker now for it and with my combo expecting somewhere around 330 to 360 whp.

The price at $85 is right vs the $140 I spent on the I believe Sve ones I put on the 94 back in around '21 '22 and they look the same lol..

For Ford Mustang 1979-2004 Black Subframe Connectors Full Length Raw #555-5245 | eBay

For Ford Mustang 1979-2004. Color: Black. Part Number: Replace for 555-5245. Installation：Easy to install, ensuring a hassle-free installation process. We will reply you in 24 hours. Surface Finish: Powder Coated.

www.ebay.com

• from6to8
• Replies: 55
• Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Oh hell yeah, this was exactly the info I was looking for!

From post 16 on that thread:

Maximum Motorsports - Made of 1.5" x 2" x 0.083" wall thickness rectangular tubing
SVE (LMR) - 1"x 2" Steel Construction, noodled around and found the wall thickness is 0.0625"
Steeda - 1.5" x 2.0" x 0.083"
Kenny Brown - 1.5" x 2.0" x 0.083" mild steel
UPR - 1.25" x 2.0" x 0.083"

 

[Stang9050]

Shortly after buying buying my '90 LX coupe, the first thing I did was Dugan subframe connectors ( I don't know if they are still in business). Next, I did a strut tower brace followed with a g-load brace for the K member (both from Steeda). The only modification that I could say made a difference was the k member brace. I'm sure the strut tower brace and subframe connectors kept the the car from twisting.

 

[Stang337]

Back in '89 when I picked up my vert at Saleen (that's another story ) the tech's told me to take it to JBA in San Diego for weld in subframe connectors to get rid of the window rake. I had weld in subframe connectors installed, rear shock tower brace installed and bought their rear seat torque bar that I installed. (bolts into floor like a roll bar but only as high as rear seat bottom) Car is stiff and doesn't flex!

 

[Bullitt347]

My Saleen started off life going straight to JBA for modifications.
Yes, that is the original paint from 1989

 

[Rcdgl]

Subframe connectors are one of the best things for a Fox. Have them on my 79 and 82. For the 82, I bought some 1x2 in tube and bent them at home in a HF press and welded them with flux core. Been there 25 yrs or more, and had the roll bar welded to them when installed by a shop in 2012 or so. Probably any brand would work, I like the cross brace kind, and made those pcs for the 82. Try the lower cost ones, and you will probably love them. Welding is required for them to be effective.