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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Super Stiff Rear Spring/shock Combo

  • Thread starter Thread starter stykthyn
  • Start date Start date Feb 20, 2017
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#21
  • Feb 20, 2017
  • #21
If the springs were an issue they would sag on one side and/or have a lot of travel, you got some meat under dat azz,
Don't over think this.
Most spring failures come from frequent overloading, or stress from bad shocks, a spring heats up when compressed or stretched, regular up and down of street driving has little heat build up mostly because of the shocks, take the shocks off and bounce the car up and down for several minutes and you could feel the heat build up, a sway bar, as ya'll know, is just a spring in a different shape, lateral instead vertical, it will have no effect on ride height or harshness,
 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
Mod Dude
Jul 20, 2014
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#22
  • Feb 20, 2017
  • #22
Also vote for sway bars/springs


Cause the factory one be tiny

Shiny New aftermarket-
 
Reactions: General karthief

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
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#23
  • Feb 20, 2017
  • #23
That's the eibach kit isn't it?
 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
Mod Dude
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#24
  • Feb 20, 2017
  • #24
Yes sir- stole the pic from AM
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Feb 20, 2017
#25
  • Feb 20, 2017
  • #25
Stiffer is not always better. Still needs to match the spring/shock combo.

93 cobra actually got a thinner bar
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#26
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #26
Oh and btw offer the "wore out" springs for sale. A budget minded drag racer should be interested in them.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#27
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #27
I'd focus on a matched spring/shock combo before going with roll bars. A stiffer shock will slow down the rate of body roll and give the spring time to react and oppose the force.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,892
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Feb 21, 2017
#28
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #28
Mustang5L5 said:
I'd focus on a matched spring/shock combo before going with roll bars. A stiffer shock will slow down the rate of body roll and give the spring time to react and oppose the force.
Click to expand...
Roll bars?
I'm sure you meant anti-roll bars, right?
 

Black1987

my wife Bedazzled my input shaft
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#29
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #29
stykthyn said:
That's the eibach kit isn't it?
Click to expand...

Wait was that your car with the fender flares in primer?

Do you have subframe connectors or even a strut tower brace? What size sway bar do you have now?

If you do have a rag joint, is it worn?
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
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#30
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #30
Black1987 said:
Wait was that your car with the fender flares in primer?

Do you have subframe connectors or even a strut tower brace? What size sway bar do you have now?

If you do have a rag joint, is it worn?
Click to expand...
God no. Wish that was my car. I have subframes. No stb. Swaybars are stock.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#31
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #31
You definitely got something wrong, and it's damn sure not the fat tires fault.
The Monster wears 315's and has stock sway bars.

While I haven't thrown it into a curve like Super Mario, I have driven it through the whoopties that you see in the vids at 50 MPH.
I have no discernible body roll, and certainly not enough to call it anywhere near obnoxious. Course I have ditched the stock springs for a C/O setup, but they are inboard of the stock spring location. If anything,..I should be the one w/ handling problems.

Looking for broke,...worn out,.... defective..or collateral damage to the suspension and it's mount points. those would be my objectives if I had your issues.
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
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#32
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #32
You could go aftermarket, stiffer Springs, then use an adjustable arm the the MM or J&M.

Joe
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
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#33
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #33
Most of the body roll is generated at the front of the car, but the Eibach rear swaybar makes a noticeable improvement, and pretty cheap too. The only problem is it hangs down ridiculously low at the corners.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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#34
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #34
MFE92 said:
Most of the body roll is generated at the front of the car, but the Eibach rear swaybar makes a noticeable improvement, and pretty cheap too. The only problem is it hangs down ridiculously low at the corners.
Click to expand...
All things considered for a car that will not be raced would you suggest sticking with struts/springs or going through with the coil overs?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#35
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #35
I will stick with my bigger sway bars front and back suggestion for a street car with a footprint like yours but I like simplicity that works.
Has this thing always acted like a land yacht?
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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#36
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #36
No. Prior to the 5 lug swap and the tokicos it behaved like a normal car. I'm thinking the shocks are the common denominator here.
 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
Mod Dude
Jul 20, 2014
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#37
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #37
Not a lot of experience with coil overs, but I really like the adjustable aspect of them
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
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#38
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #38
RaggedGT said:
Not a lot of experience with coil overs, but I really like the adjustable aspect of them
Click to expand...
I do too, but my only motivation to use them at this point is for the MM control arms that I have. Lately for simplicity I've just been kicking around the idea of keeping the factory arms and going with a proven set of shocks / springs such as the eibach kit.
 
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MFE92

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#39
  • Feb 21, 2017
  • #39
Personally I'll never with conventional springs again. I think coilovers are worth it, but that's me. As for wallowing, strut/shock damping shouldn't control how much of it happens, just how fast it happens.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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Feb 22, 2017
#40
  • Feb 22, 2017
  • #40
stykthyn said:
No. Prior to the 5 lug swap and the tokicos it behaved like a normal car. I'm thinking the shocks are the common denominator here.
Click to expand...

Well the springs they are paired with are stiffer than standard Fox springs. I have Tokico Blues paired with Mach 1 springs, and find the handling to be quite nice, while giving me a decent ride.

I think your issue is soft, high milage springs, combined with shocks/struts designed to work with stiffer springs, so the valving may be a little "slow". Like I said before, I'd probably go with a shock/strut that is adjustable, and run them pretty firm, or find a decent spring/shock combo that is pretty matched.
 
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