If the springs were an issue they would sag on one side and/or have a lot of travel, you got some meat under dat azz,
Don't over think this.
Most spring failures come from frequent overloading, or stress from bad shocks, a spring heats up when compressed or stretched, regular up and down of street driving has little heat build up mostly because of the shocks, take the shocks off and bounce the car up and down for several minutes and you could feel the heat build up, a sway bar, as ya'll know, is just a spring in a different shape, lateral instead vertical, it will have no effect on ride height or harshness,
Don't over think this.
Most spring failures come from frequent overloading, or stress from bad shocks, a spring heats up when compressed or stretched, regular up and down of street driving has little heat build up mostly because of the shocks, take the shocks off and bounce the car up and down for several minutes and you could feel the heat build up, a sway bar, as ya'll know, is just a spring in a different shape, lateral instead vertical, it will have no effect on ride height or harshness,
Also vote for sway bars/springs
Cause the factory one be tiny
Shiny New aftermarket-
Cause the factory one be tiny
Shiny New aftermarket-
Stiffer is not always better. Still needs to match the spring/shock combo.
93 cobra actually got a thinner bar
93 cobra actually got a thinner bar
Oh and btw offer the "wore out" springs for sale. A budget minded drag racer should be interested in them.
I'd focus on a matched spring/shock combo before going with roll bars. A stiffer shock will slow down the rate of body roll and give the spring time to react and oppose the force.
Roll bars?I'd focus on a matched spring/shock combo before going with roll bars. A stiffer shock will slow down the rate of body roll and give the spring time to react and oppose the force.
I'm sure you meant anti-roll bars, right?
That's the eibach kit isn't it?
Wait was that your car with the fender flares in primer?
Do you have subframe connectors or even a strut tower brace? What size sway bar do you have now?
If you do have a rag joint, is it worn?
God no. Wish that was my car. I have subframes. No stb. Swaybars are stock.Wait was that your car with the fender flares in primer?
Do you have subframe connectors or even a strut tower brace? What size sway bar do you have now?
If you do have a rag joint, is it worn?
You definitely got something wrong, and it's damn sure not the fat tires fault.
The Monster wears 315's and has stock sway bars.
While I haven't thrown it into a curve like Super Mario, I have driven it through the whoopties that you see in the vids at 50 MPH.
I have no discernible body roll, and certainly not enough to call it anywhere near obnoxious. Course I have ditched the stock springs for a C/O setup, but they are inboard of the stock spring location. If anything,..I should be the one w/ handling problems.
Looking for broke,...worn out,.... defective..or collateral damage to the suspension and it's mount points. those would be my objectives if I had your issues.
The Monster wears 315's and has stock sway bars.
While I haven't thrown it into a curve like Super Mario, I have driven it through the whoopties that you see in the vids at 50 MPH.
I have no discernible body roll, and certainly not enough to call it anywhere near obnoxious. Course I have ditched the stock springs for a C/O setup, but they are inboard of the stock spring location. If anything,..I should be the one w/ handling problems.
Looking for broke,...worn out,.... defective..or collateral damage to the suspension and it's mount points. those would be my objectives if I had your issues.
All things considered for a car that will not be raced would you suggest sticking with struts/springs or going through with the coil overs?Most of the body roll is generated at the front of the car, but the Eibach rear swaybar makes a noticeable improvement, and pretty cheap too. The only problem is it hangs down ridiculously low at the corners.
I will stick with my bigger sway bars front and back suggestion for a street car with a footprint like yours but I like simplicity that works.
Has this thing always acted like a land yacht?
Has this thing always acted like a land yacht?
No. Prior to the 5 lug swap and the tokicos it behaved like a normal car. I'm thinking the shocks are the common denominator here.
I do too, but my only motivation to use them at this point is for the MM control arms that I have. Lately for simplicity I've just been kicking around the idea of keeping the factory arms and going with a proven set of shocks / springs such as the eibach kit.Not a lot of experience with coil overs, but I really like the adjustable aspect of them
No. Prior to the 5 lug swap and the tokicos it behaved like a normal car. I'm thinking the shocks are the common denominator here.
Well the springs they are paired with are stiffer than standard Fox springs. I have Tokico Blues paired with Mach 1 springs, and find the handling to be quite nice, while giving me a decent ride.
I think your issue is soft, high milage springs, combined with shocks/struts designed to work with stiffer springs, so the valving may be a little "slow". Like I said before, I'd probably go with a shock/strut that is adjustable, and run them pretty firm, or find a decent spring/shock combo that is pretty matched.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 0
- Views
- 272
- Replies
- 76
- Views
- 5K
- Replies
- 3
- Views
- 285
- Replies
- 4
- Views
- 789
Wheels-Tires
Quad shock quandry
- Replies
- 13
- Views
- 2K