supercharged B303 setup???

[drummerboy5.0]

I have a rebuilt motor with a Gt40 intake, B cam, and Stock E7's.

I am thinking of adding a blower but I'm not sure how it would run with the cam and stock heads.

I have heard horror stories about B303 computer issues, and my dad tells me that the cam has too much overlap to work well with the supercharger.

anybody have an answer? I really don't want to tear the engine apart again to change the cam and I don't want to spend $1000+ on new heads either...

 

[Foxfan88]

i ran a similar setup for a while back in late 07.

had thumper ported e7s, b-cam advanced 4*, and a typhoon intake. with the usual bolt ons and etc. i ran a v1 vortech, started out with around 6 psi (stock SC trim setup plus a powerpipe)

car ran great, managed 12.1 @113 1.64 60' with 6 psi, i pullied it up some more at around 9 psi, car seems to run great up there. but since i was running an SC trim kit, i had no form or spark retard working for me at all.

i actually had base timing advanced a few degrees, so with a stock EEC i was seeing around 28-29 total timing at WOT under higher boost. obviously too much for 9 psi non intercooled. my own stupid noobness at the time lol.

i was running stock injectors with an FMU, so sort of tuning or WB feedback, so in a nutshell i was blind. car ran great for a while, i then proceeded to blow a headgasket at the track. but it did pick up a few MPH, ran 12.1 @115 1.7-1.8 60'(bad traction) i managed the same ET with a crappier short time. perhaps i could have seen a high 11 with better traction i dont know.

i pulled it apart and ended up upgrading to some twisted wedge heads and an f-cam. i also smartened up and bought a tweecer setup and a WBo2. got the car running and started to tinker and tune with the EEC, also was using 42# injectors this time around.

took a while to get the car running real good with the tweecer but once i did it was alit quicker, the boost dropped to 6-7 psi with the new heads and cam, but the car ran ALOT quicker. kept fooling around trying to keep tuning which took a while to really get the hang of it and i ended up throwing a smaller blower pulley on the SC. i saw 12-13 psi. and the car was hauling pretty good lol. never made it to the track but i am guessing it would have been in the 11.5ish zone around 120ish MPH, just a guess.



now to your question, if your running a MAF based EEC (89-93 5.0 eecs, also 88 CA computers were MAF) then dont worry about the cam hurting performance. the difference in airflow you will see with the cam will just simply be rocognized by the EEC as a change in airflow, so the EEC will not need any modification on that front.

if your running an 87-88 SD based EEC you will most likely have issue. SD relies most on manifold pressure to calculate air mass, so the cam change is going to change manifold pressures during operation, the car should run, but not well.

in a nutshell the SD EEC will be looking at the wrong cell of the fuel and spark tables during operation.
during WOT i'd expect there to not be any differnce, since manifold pressure will increase to roughly atmospheric pressure like any other N/A engine. its going to be the idle and drivability that will suffer with the cam swap on SD. of course it can be tuned for but there isnt much support for the SD eecs in mustangs. if your SD, your far better off doing a MAF swap.

now i highly reccomend a custom tune either way you go, even with the MAF eec, solely for accurate fuel and spark control. the stock EEC doesnt even recognize load/VE over 100% (boost) so in untuned applications, you rely on BTM boxes and FMU, to handle the spark and fuel, a BANDAID fix IMO. there is no replacement for an actual tune, the car will run better, make more power and be safer from knock.

so invest in a custom dyno tune with WB feeback to get the fueling and spark right.

sorry for the long reply but hopfully i answered your questions.

good luck

 

[drummerboy5.0]

Thanks FoxFan.

that sort of answered my question. I've been planning on a dyno tune and a chip anyways just to solve my idle and driveability problems.

So you are basically saying that If I get the blower just to keep it under 9 psi and to upgrade the injectors? I bought a set of 24#'s that i have never got around to installing cause I need a different mass air meter. think they would be adequate for the supercharger or should I return them and get bigger ones?


I also have a spare set of E7's from my old motor sitting around.
Is it worth it sending them in to thumper (I'm canadian so shipping would probably be alot)
were the thumpers good bang for the buck or should I just save for a set of TFS or eddy's??

you've run both heads.. whats the difference compared to stock??

 

[Foxfan88]

Thanks FoxFan.

that sort of answered my question. I've been planning on a dyno tune and a chip anyways just to solve my idle and driveability problems.

So you are basically saying that If I get the blower just to keep it under 9 psi and to upgrade the injectors? I bought a set of 24#'s that i have never got around to installing cause I need a different mass air meter. think they would be adequate for the supercharger or should I return them and get bigger ones?


I also have a spare set of E7's from my old motor sitting around.
Is it worth it sending them in to thumper (I'm canadian so shipping would probably be alot)
were the thumpers good bang for the buck or should I just save for a set of TFS or eddy's??

you've run both heads.. whats the difference compared to stock??

24s wont be enough by themselves. i say get at least 42s, with the proper tune it wont hurt anything to oversize them a bit.

and i wasnt saying to keep boost under 9 psi, i was just using that as an example as to what can happen if you start upping boost without properly adressing fuel and spark. if i had good control over the fuel and spark i wouldnt have blown a HG and could have upped the boost even more.

before i took the SC off i was running 12-13 psi and it ws running awesome and didnt have a problem.

as for the heads, the thumpers i used worked great, i originally ran a stock motor with bolt ons 3 years ago, i assembled a different engine to put in, i got the thumpers, a tmoss ported stock intake and the b-cam advanced 4 degrees.

i swapped the motor and noticed a pretty good jump in performance. i ended yp swapping the tmoss intake for a typhoon intake, i noticed a slight loss in the LOW end but it picked up a bit in the higher revs. i ran this combo for a year so and the best track times i managed was 13.3 @103, ran pretty good but i THINK i could have got a little more out of it if i kept tinkering. added the supercharger and i got to where i explained in my first post.

as for the TW heads, they make more power across the board. i removed my SC a few months ago and am going to do a turbo setup, but i can remember what the car felt like with thumpers and what i have now, the TW heads make alot more power and the car seems to be alot faster.

the thumpers worked awesome, for a mild setup they work great. but i was looking for more power and i got the better heads.

as for what to get, its all up to what your goals are. if your looking for for a quick street car and arent after max power then ported stock or budget iron heads will be what you can use. if you want more power get the aftermarket heads, there is no denying that they make more power.

IMHO i say if your going to buy new heads get some TFS or edebrocks etc. but if your on a budget you may go the other route. either will be a good bit faster from stock.

 

[drummerboy5.0]

thanks alot.
That helped me figure this out much better.