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Supercharged guys please help

  • Thread starter Thread starter raistlin77
  • Start date Start date Apr 13, 2011
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raistlin77

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Apr 13, 2011
#1
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #1
Need some direction from people who have installed superchargers and had bad idle/bogging/studdering/hesitation after install. I cannot for the life of me figure what is going on with my car. It is a 93 with a v3 supercharger 5/6 pounds boost. Everything is stock. Had some engine codes but have been fixed. Still having issues. Also been through the bad idle posts sticky and tried the suggestions.
 

Noobz347

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#2
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #2
Sounds like a vac leak. I would imagine that you've checked for that already but did you also install a vac/boost gauge with your S/C kit?
 
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raistlin77

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  • Apr 13, 2011
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I have a vac/boost and a fuel psi and a afr. Vac is showing 10 to 12, fuel at 38, afr at 12 to 14 when idling ok. When it stumbles vac and afr is all over the place. I have checked for leaks visually and with brake cleaner but nothing had showed up. What seems weird is that the idle does settle eventualy. It gets bad when I start the car hot or cold.
 
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Mike in Texas

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Nov 7, 2005
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Apr 14, 2011
#4
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #4
SC

If you're running an FMU, the SC should really have no effect on idle unless maybe the lines to the FMU are reversed. Could try clocking the MAF. How does it run under boost?
 
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raistlin77

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Apr 15, 2011
#5
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #5
I have not Reach boost levels yet due to this issue. I did actually try clocking the mass air with no affect. I am actualy going to try installing a bosch bypass and see if it will help. I am thinking that it may be surging from the s/c causing the issue.
 

midlife89

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Mar 30, 2005
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Apr 16, 2011
#6
  • Apr 16, 2011
  • #6
I think the bypass will only help when coming down from boost to get rid of excess pressure.I had trouble when I first installed my blower,the guy who ended up tuning it for me blamed the CnL maf I was using.Swithed to a SCT maf and have had no problems since.A friend of mine has a N/A set up and he had problems until he went with a ProM Maf.Having it tuned was the best money I spent.
 
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raistlin77

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#7
  • Apr 16, 2011
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I think that I may have to get it tuned. But it bothers me that I need to get this done and other people don't. I figured that I would only have to be concern when I am in boost not puttering around town.
 

Kdubslugga

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Apr 16, 2011
#8
  • Apr 16, 2011
  • #8
What mass air meter are you running? Are you running an FMU with the blower?
 

Rick 91GT

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#9
  • Apr 16, 2011
  • #9
The bypass valve will help as you come off boost so that is not your issue.

Recheck all your connections and clamps, double check everything you touched.

What is the timing set to? Did you swap spark plugs?

To address the C&L comment their meters work fine when in the right configuration. Most of their meters are set from them to be used with a stock airbox, na. If using on a S/C application you need a different sample tube.
 

Rick 91GT

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#10
  • Apr 16, 2011
  • #10
Your vac reading is low for a stock 5.0 btw...
 
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raistlin77

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#11
  • Apr 16, 2011
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My mass air is stock, also used the k/n filter cover and fmu from vortech. I am going to try to do a vacuum leak check again. What is the right vacuum for a stock 5.0 at idle? To explain why I was thinking of a bypass is because when I start the car it rev's as normal but then it has a hard time finding a stable idle, but it does settle down. It also seems to have trouble when I let go of the gas and press in the clutch slowing down to a stop, it starts to act up again but will eventually settle out. I have done a full tune up, 10 degrees timing and tried gapping the new ford plugs from .035 to factory specs as recommended by vortech. I have also just tried different PVC, breather methods as suggested trying to see if that would help.
 

FastDriver

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Apr 17, 2011
#12
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #12
I would definitely be looking for a vacuum leak. Check everything - run down the lines from the intake all the way through. Make sure all the vacuum ports on the intake are either attached to something or plugged.

What kind of injectors are you running?
 
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raistlin77

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#13
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #13
FastDriver said:
I would definitely be looking for a vacuum leak. Check everything - run down the lines from the intake all the way through. Make sure all the vacuum ports on the intake are either attached to something or plugged.

What kind of injectors are you running?
Click to expand...


Running 19 and matching fmu.
 

Rick 91GT

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Nov 29, 1999
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#14
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #14
Most stock motors Ive seen pull 16"-19" of vac..

What breather set-up do you have on the car right now? You should have the closed cap on the oil fill, and I think Vortech still supplies the hose with the filter that goes to the airbox. Make sure all the spark plug wires are connected tight, the ,035" gap shouldnt have been an issue. They are standard core plugs not platnium right?

Try re-setting the EEC, it will take a few mins for it to learn how to idle. Disconnect the battery for 10 mins, then hook everything back up and let it idle, turn the heat on as well, go drive it. Resetting the EEC will not hurt however your vac reading is still low and is suspect to me... Check the vac fittings on the rear underside of the intake, the hose going to the FPR.

IF the car ran fine before the blower install it is definitly from something you touched or moved during the install, retrace your steps and triple check the connections, make sure the MAF harness is plugged tight and the meter is installed in the proper direction.
 
B

BYRDPE

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Nov 4, 1998
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Apr 17, 2011
#15
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #15
yep...definitely a vacuum leak. the ecu is trying to compensate for it.
 
C

clodracer2000

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Apr 11, 2011
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Apr 17, 2011
#16
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #16
Dont feel bad dude. Im Now goin through the same thing. I just put a paxton sn89 on my car and it too is running a lil rough. I do have a cl maf meter not cali for sc, so today imma put my stock 1 back on and go from there.
 

Noobz347

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#17
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #17
Also....


Try removing and plugging the line(s) to your vac/boost gauge. I've seen a couple of occations where the gauge itself was bad and allowing enough of a vac leak to cause an issue... What's noteworthy about these instances that I'm talking about is theat they all had problems during the Vac/Boost transition.
 
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raistlin77

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#18
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #18
I am going to try leak checking with propane gas to see if I can locate a leak instead of the brake cleaner, maybe I will get better results. Also I re plumbed the oil fill neck back to the air filter cover as per vortech instructions. I had it originally plumbed back into the suction side of the supercharger. This also didn't make any differance. The spark plugs are new ford oem and did the idle reset with a computer reboot when I changed the iac.
 
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raistlin77

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Apr 18, 2011
#19
  • Apr 18, 2011
  • #19
Tried leak checking again. Engine intake, solenoids and hoses have been drenched with all kinds of flammable liquids. No change in idle. I did clean the throttle body blade again (wasn't happy with the last time I cleaned it). Sure enough it seems to be better, not perfect but drivable. Still was not able to get my vacuum any better, but I suspect that maybe my gauge is inaccurate.
 
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raistlin77

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Apr 19, 2011
#20
  • Apr 19, 2011
  • #20
Well i tried using a mechanics vacuum test gauge, and it proved my gauge was inaccurate. It is showing 19 hg. So now i still need to figure out what the hell is going on
 
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