Suspension Suggestions Needed

91GtMattTx

Member
Dec 23, 2016
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Hey guys. I know this has probably been beaten to death but there are so many different opinions on what to go with. I'm looking for some suspension ideas (RCA's, shocks/struts/subframes, etc) to go with eibach sportline springs. The car is 90% a street car. I don't daily drive it by any means, usually just spirited weekend cruising. It's a mostly stock 5.0 with a few bolt ons. Stock AOD, and stock rear end gears (for now). The car will see limited track time (maybe twice a year), and straight line performance is my biggest concern. I know sportlines are terrible for drag racing, but as I said it's mostly a street car. Looking for some input from some of you with more experience on the matter than myself. Suspension is not something I am familiar with. Any input is greatly appreciated. Again, sorry if this is the 10,000th time y'all have seen this thread.
 
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  • max motorsports RCA
  • Stock Ford upper rear control arms
  • Steeda or H&R springs
  • Max motorsports full length subframe connectors
  • Tokico Blue or 5 way adjustable shocks
  • Poly sway bar link bushings

Proven setup that has been done 1000's of times
 
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Thanks for the reply. I was leaning towards that exact setup honestly. I've heard that going full poly on control arms causes binding and tears things up. Now on the MM LCA, do I need to go with an adjustable or fixed arm if it's lowered?

the adjustable is preferred if you want to be able to dial in your ride height. I have teh non adjutable and couldnt be happier. They also use a heim type joint at one end so there is no binding. You are correct, I do not like the puly bushing on both end type as they have a tendency to bind and squeek.
 
They aren't knock offs. Our bushing design is very different compared to other 3 piece bushings. Our 3 piece poly-ball uses a very hard 95 durometer synthetic elastomer ball that allows full articulation for cornering but eliminates the fore and aft movement to help with corner exit and straight line traction. The outer cups are made from a very soft synthetic elastomer to allow the ball to rotate similar to a spherical bearing. By using a center ball instead a center squared off section you don't have the extra load on the corners of the bushings that make them fail over time. Our bushing design works so well we give a lifetime warranty on them.
 
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knockoffs

Kevin Slaby recommended either the MM or the J&M to me, stating that they were both quality made and to stay away from others. I have been very happy with the product itself, although their customer service left something to be desired. In the end it got resolved and I am happy with their product.

Joe

Edit: my experience is with the J&M, not MM.
 
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I believe the main reason to stick with rubber bushings on the upper arms was to avoid binding. This is a street car recipe we are discussing, so the compliant rubber gives the solid axle better articulation as it transitions side to side.

You certainly can install aftermarket arms here. Most come with poly bushing but the bushing in the axle is still rubber unless you change it out.

Steeda years ago sold a boxed version of the ford upper arm. This is what I run with rubber bushings in the upper arm and axle. It's a shame they no longer sell these
IMG_9333.JPG
 
reviving this thread. Looking at adjustable MM LCA's. This won't be a track car, but want to gt suspension right. Have subframes from MM already, starting with LCA's, and then looking at shocks/struts/springs or coilovers. Starting my winter project purchses now to spread out cost.

Differences between these three? (other than price?)

$459
https://lmr.com/item/MM-MMRLCA341/maximum-m-adjustable-rear-lower-control-arms-mustang-79-98

$459
https://lmr.com/item/MM-MMRLCA32/79...justable-Extreme-Duty-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms

$379
https://lmr.com/item/MM-MMRLCA2/79-98-Mustang-Maximum-Motorsports-Adjustable-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms
 
Biggest improvement with mine was MM pan hard bar and its seen several track days. Design of control arms allows rear axle to be able to move side to side making it squirrely leading to snap oversteer. See MM website about it explaining operation.