Suspension upgrade in progress

[65fastbackresto]

Need some advice guys, here is a list of parts I have ordered, most of which are already here, let me know if I need to pickup anything else while I`m at it.

Rear of car
Meiyer Racing leaf springs stock height
Shock supports
U bolts
Shackles
Subframe connectors
Car already has air shocks on the back.

Front of car
Meiyer racing coil springs 1 inch lowering.
spring perches
coil spring isolators 1/4 inch thick.

If anyone has any suggestions as to what else I need, please let me know. I`m taking a 6 cyl car and getting it ready for a V-8. Already have 5 lug bolt pattern and disk brakes are next.

 

[2bav8]

Replace the air shocks with anything else
Roller spring perches
Adjustable length strut rods with heim joint

 

[65fastbackresto]

The air shocks were necessary till now

Car has 17 inch wheels and the tires were rubbing in the front and back.

Mustangs Unlimited said if the 1 inch lowerings coils in front are too much and I have clearance issues, I can install 1 inch spring isolators to raise it back up.

 

[2bav8]

What is the backspacing of your rims?
That is probably the source of your rubbing.

 

[65fastbackresto]

I`m not sure what the backspacing is

I`ve only had the car for a month, but I can see some cuts in the side of the tire, and when I let all the air outta the shocks it settles like 1 inch over the tire. Prob only rubbed in a corner I assume, I hope these new stiffer leafs fix the problem.

The springs on it are BAD, total rust from one end to the other, I`m sure they are sagging.

I kinda thinks the springs were flexing enough for the rear end to move from side to side, but I`ll know more later.

 

[65fastbackresto]

2BAV8

THAT is a nice ride man. I`m kinda on a budjet but one day I want to be able to corner real good without a lot of body roll, which is why I went with the Meiyer racing equipment. Figured if I spent alot in the right spots it will help me later.

 

[RUSTYNUT]

Sway bars, urethane bushings, synthetic grease. Ditto on ditching air shocks. They where popular in the 70's until found they put alot stress on shock mounts and had a nasty habit of leaking. Better to correct the problem with tire rub. I would use rubber on strut rods. You may be able roll the lips if the new springs don't keep the tires safe. Did you already do the Shelby drop?

 

[65fastbackresto]

Rusty Nut

I have not done the Shelby drop, but I am considering it. Control Freak makes a nice set of tubular control arms, but they cost alot, I`ll have to save for a while to get them.

 

[RUSTYNUT]

You will really want to do the drop to make a big differance with low bucks. The tubular stuff is way cool but the drop will make very noticable change. Same with the roller spring pearch already mentioned. Stock parts can be beefed up cheap if you weld.

 

[65fastbackresto]

RustyNut

I have a buddy who is a welder, mig welder I think? Uses a argon gas welder thats wire fed, its what we used to fix the rusted frame rails.

Are you talking about beefing up the control arms?

 

[Decurion]

Lets see if maybe I can clearify things a bit. Ill just sum up what I think everyone else has/will say. First and foremost is to make sure that what wont be replaced is in good working order. (tie rods, balljoints, bushings, etc) It may be cheapest and easiest just to get a complete front end kit from some place like PST or where ever that comes with assembled upper and lower control arms, and linkage as needed. Then throw away the brand new spring perches the kit came with and order a set of roller perches from Opentracker. If you order the kit that came with shocks from PST, those will be KYB gas-adjust and are good budget minded shocks. Springs are up to you, lots of people talk about 620lb springs, but personally I think that may be a bit stiff. You may just get a set of stock springs (480lb ?) and cut em a bit to get the right stance and increase spring rate a little at the same time. Before you put all this stuff on, do the Shelby drop to the upper control arms, and dont forget to align it WITH UPDATED SPECS. The original alignment specs were designed with the old geometry and bias ply tires, neither of which you will have. Last is a nice fat sway bar. 1" should do the trick, again available from PST.
As for the rear suspension, if you havent already ordered the springs, you might consider the mid-eye or other lowering springs. It sounds like you dont want it super low, but if you want to be able to handle corners, youll want it lower than stock and the mid-eye shouldnt drop it much. In any case, even stock springs with all new bushings and KYBs should be all you need.

 

[65fastbackresto]

Decurion

Opentracker seems to have everything I need, and I really like the guy. He is even giving alot of advise on how to check the steering components myself so I`ll know whats good and bad up there. His point was same as yours, dont spend money unless it needs spent, and believe me, I need to be as budget minded as possible. All my new parts are designed for stock ride height, and they pretty much have to be for now, cause of my monster freaking wheels. 17 inch by 10`s all the way around. If they weren`t so pretty I`d change them out, but I like em, and the car looks really cool at the stance it has now.

 

[C6AE]

Opentracker is top notch

 

[68RCodeConv]

Air shocks are bad news. Besides putting undue stress on the shock mounting points (leading to broken/torn shock mounts) they also take weight off the rear springs leading to axle windup and thus wheel hop. Plus they raise the center of gravity because the load is being carried up high. And they are too stiff for good handling. IMO they are one of the WORST things you can do to the rear suspension of a Mustang.

 

[HistoricMustang]

It is all about funding. Here is mine.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

Summary of the front end set up:
Shelby Drop
1 1/8" Front Sway Bar
Front Coils cut to height for 2 1/2" front end
drop
Poly bushing everywhere
Monte Carlo Bar
Ford original Export Brace
KYB shocks
Toe In - 1/8" total
Camber - 1 degree negative
Caster - 2 1/2 to 3 degrees positive
Quick Steering Box with Shelby pitman arm
Granada spindle and brakes
Brake Master Cylinder from 1970 Ford Mustang
Ford Upper and Lower Control Arms
7" x 15" Torque Thrust Wheels
245 x 45 Hoosier Street TD's
Fender lips are rolled

Rear End set up:
5 leaf springs with reverse eyes
1" Nylon lowering block with wedge
Above two items drop rear about 2 1/2"
9" Detroit Locker Rear End narrowed 1/2" each side
No rear sway bar
Standard off the shelf Mustang shocks
Poly bushings
8 1/2" x 15" Torque Thrust
245 x 45 Hoosier Street TD's
Fender lips are rolled

Good enough for a Daytona win!

 

[65fastbackresto]

I finally got ONE of the leafs on.

Some previous owner undercoated EVERYTHING, made a fairly simple job into a b#@##.

But, on the brighter side, I cant bounce the car on the side I fixed, its pretty stiff.

 

[65fastbackresto]

Backspacing

4 1/4 inches with 10 inch wheels all the way around. They actually fit pretty good if I can keep the body off of them with these mods.

What is the backspacing of your rims?
That is probably the source of your rubbing.

 

[HistoricMustang]

Opentracker is top notch

Yes, you are correct. I have seen his stuff and it is top quality.

Trying to find time to get the Opentracker roller spring perches on the 'stang.

HistoricMustang

 

[65fastbackresto]

This is frustrating

I want to just jump on the car and knock it all out, but life keeps getting in the way....I`m averaging like 2 days work a month on my car and its gonna take me 20 years to get it done like this.