Progress Thread Tanner's "there's Probably A Name For This Illness" Builds Thread

tannerc91gt · Dec 31, 2015

K member, CC plates, coilovers, strange 10 ways, sn95 brakes All got thrown on tonight (wild New Year's Eve I know)
Tommorow is my birthday so we usually get the family together, had to get it done while I could.

The rear end isn't done, it's all over the floor. But I lowered the rear down over the tire to give myself some motivation I guess.

If I get a chance this weekend I want to clean up the front end and box in the frame rail ends.

old_blue · Jan 1, 2016

Looking good. So why is there no longer a core support? You building something from scratch?

tannerc91gt · Jan 1, 2016

old_blue said:
Looking good. So why is there no longer a core support? You building something from scratch?

Yes sir.

tannerc91gt · Jan 3, 2016

@hoopty5.0
What did you do for rear shocks/springs when you minitubbed?

I keep going back to wanting to tub this car. I just do, that's as far as the reasoning goes. I want to be able to lower the car. Possibly narrow the rear and run a better looking wheel and a bigger tire.

Obviously that cuts out the factory shock mount.

Team Z's kit has a support bar between the rear wells and moves the coilovers inward. This is the only logical answer I think.

I'm sure there are more choices

@84Ttop am I overlooking anything?

hoopty5.0 · Jan 3, 2016

I did exactly that ^ Really easy install with the floor of the trunk out.

84Ttop · Jan 4, 2016

tannerc91gt said:
@hoopty5.0
What did you do for rear shocks/springs when you minitubbed?

I keep going back to wanting to tub this car. I just do, that's as far as the reasoning goes. I want to be able to lower the car. Possibly narrow the rear and run a better looking wheel and a bigger tire.

Obviously that cuts out the factory shock mount.

Team Z's kit has a support bar between the rear wells and moves the coilovers inward. This is the only logical answer I think.

I'm sure there are more choices

@84Ttop am I overlooking anything?

What you have pictured is the easiest way to skin this cat, if you are putting a roll bar in this car and wanted to do something a little more trick, you can mount that cross bar as part of the roll cage and run a longer shock through the floor.

If/when you mini tub the car, make sure that you notch the rails to get enough clearance to slam the car if that's what you're after. You will also need to consider adjustable mounting points for the upper control arms once the car is that low to the ground to fix the suspension geometry that you just destroyed

hoopty5.0 · Jan 4, 2016

Ah yes, along the lines Nick mentioned, the Wolfe kit I bought came with the plates to notch the frame. I had forgotten about that and it was kind of a pain, but very do-able.

Wolfe Race Craft
- Detail

tannerc91gt · Jan 4, 2016

Good info. I've read the "how-to"s a bunch of times now on the frame notching and all that, actually got my own plate because I assumed it wasn't included lol

Almost seems a shame considering how well fox suspension works in stock configuration.
But I guess that's the whole point of this car, doing all the stuff I didn't do on my other cars due to my previous made up time constraints.

tannerc91gt · Jan 4, 2016

84Ttop said:
What you have pictured is the easiest way to skin this cat, if you are putting a roll bar in this car and wanted to do something a little more trick, you can mount that cross bar as part of the roll cage and run a longer shock through the floor.

If/when you mini tub the car, make sure that you notch the rails to get enough clearance to slam the car if that's what you're after. You will also need to consider adjustable mounting points for the upper control arms once the car is that low to the ground to fix the suspension geometry that you just destroyed

I'm trying to decide if/what I want to do about a cage. So that's a good point I probably ought to consider.
I really want to put an 8-10pt in the car while it's a bare shell. My sole concern is driving around town in a car with a halo bar that will surely kill me in an accident without a helmet. These cars are death traps anyways I guess.

Option 1: no cage. Saves a good chunk of change. Get kicked out of every track

Option 2: there's a couple really nice chassis shops within 100 miles of here. Most expensive but definitely the best choice. Tin Soldier Race cars is 80 miles away. Theyve built some nice x275 stuff here recently
Option 3: a wolf hang and tack kit. Nothing but good reviews on fit and finish. Still going to require I have a superior welder do the finish work.

hoopty5.0 · Jan 4, 2016

LOL. I can't tell you how many AH HA! moments I've had this time around.

Edit*

I hate to keep comparing my experiences to what you are going to do, but my first shot at the hang and tack roll cage was a mess. If I did it again, I'd buy a nice tubing notcher, fit it all together nicely and tack it. Then take it somewhere for finish welding. It was an absolute pain in the d*ck.

tannerc91gt · Jan 4, 2016

Oh no, I appreciate all the info and experience I can get. This thing will be a slow progress but I'm kind of at a fork in the road here.

Need to tackle the rear end but have to decide if it'll get Tubbed, caged and narrowed or none of the above.
If I'm honest none of the cage work interests me at all. I'm probably willing to pay the "let a pro do it" tax.

For once, I'm going to stop and think it over for a while

84Ttop · Jan 4, 2016

tannerc91gt said:
I'm trying to decide if/what I want to do about a cage. So that's a good point I probably ought to consider.
I really want to put an 8-10pt in the car while it's a bare shell. My sole concern is driving around town in a car with a halo bar that will surely kill me in an accident without a helmet. These cars are death traps anyways I guess.

Option 1: no cage. Saves a good chunk of change. Get kicked out of every track

Option 2: there's a couple really nice chassis shops within 100 miles of here. Most expensive but definitely the best choice. Tin Soldier Race cars is 80 miles away. Theyve built some nice x275 stuff here recently
Option 3: a wolf hang and tack kit. Nothing but good reviews on fit and finish. Still going to require I have a superior welder do the finish work.

Need, Need, Needs a cage... If you're building anything with some horsepower you need to have one... The reason I haven't gone to a 25.x chassis as of yet is the street driving with a funny car cage, the 10 point doesn't really scare me though. It's tucked away a good bit and high enough to the roof that I can't easily hit my head. Installation of the bar is key here, while the tack and weld deal is an option it will never fit like a custom bent cage from a good chassis shop.
I'm currently far beyond the point of needing a 25.5 in my car but can't stomach cutting my car up further, you will always find yourself having this struggle in some form if you are doing any racing. It's far to easy to make stupid horsepower these days. Without letting too much out of the bag here, my 84 will be slowing down to the "safe" zone with the 10 point and a "new" 25.3 chassis will likely replace it after the 2016 season.

tannerc91gt · Jan 4, 2016

84Ttop said:
Without letting too much out of the bag here, my 84 will be slowing down to the "safe" zone with the 10 point and a "new" 25.3 chassis will likely replace it after the 2016 season.

You're building a promod right? Everyone's building promods. Everyone.

Promod.

tannerc91gt · Jan 4, 2016

You're probably (definitely) right though. I think it'll sit til it can get caged

84Ttop · Jan 4, 2016

tannerc91gt said:
You're building a promod right? Everyone's building promods. Everyone.

Promod.

I prefer to think of it like "promod" instead of promod if you know what I mean

tannerc91gt · Jan 5, 2016

Got my chassis shop quote back today. Was a lot higher than I had hoped, but you can pretty much bank on that with everything.
I had them include a mini tub and front tube work as well as the moly 8.50 cage and it doubled the cost. I know I can handle those jobs myself so I'll probably re-figure it without them

84Ttop · Jan 5, 2016

tannerc91gt said:
Got my chassis shop quote back today. Was a lot higher than I had hoped, but you can pretty much bank on that with everything.
I had them include a mini tub and front tube work as well as the moly 8.50 cage and it doubled the cost. I know I can handle those jobs myself so I'll probably re-figure it without them

Don't forget to include a "chassis jail" factor... So after you approve the work, double or triple the amount of time they say things will take

tannerc91gt · Jan 5, 2016

84Ttop said:
Don't forget to include a "chassis jail" factor... So after you approve the work, double or triple the amount of time they say things will take

They were pretty upfront with that part lol
Can't take it on until April and I told them I wasn't in a hurry to have it done. Probably my first mistake. $3,400 for a chromoly 8.50 cert doesn't seem too astronomical considering their work history. But I've got no other quotes to base that on?

Noobz347 · Jan 5, 2016

What the date today?

Oh. Promod. thx

tannerc91gt · Jan 5, 2016

Promods for errbody

Progress Thread Tanner's "there's Probably A Name For This Illness" Builds Thread

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

mechanicus terribilis

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

mechanicus terribilis

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

mechanicus terribilis

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

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