Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?

@a91what - tune attached. Tried to test fire the coil, no worky.

Also tried to get a cranking log but had to swap in 2 starters then the battery was weak, so I'll try that again tomorrow.
 

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@a91what - tune attached. Tried to test fire the coil, no worky.

Also tried to get a cranking log but had to swap in 2 starters then the battery was weak, so I'll try that again tomorrow.
You have a few issues.....
spark output needs to be going low for logic level spark i believe.
number of coils should be set to wasted spark

I believe these changes will make a difference.
 
You have a few issues.....
spark output needs to be going low for logic level spark i believe.
number of coils should be set to wasted spark

I believe these changes will make a difference.

Based on the ignition input page,
https://www.diyautotune.com/support...entation/diypnp-v1-5/ignition-control/#vr_ckp

it says use going high, but to switch it if the module gets hot. I'll swap it around and see what happens. As for the trigger pickup, I wired it wrong. I have no idea how I wired it wrong, because I made my notes based off the link above, but going back through my pictures, I can see that I did not run the negative wire for the sensor to VR-. That's really frustrating... I took a lot of time to make sure I did it all right too.

Edit*** wait, maybe it's right. ...reading...


Edit2 - Ok, so I have the red, new style HALL SENSOR. I wired it up based on these directions:

New (red body) threaded sensor

Hall effect crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. This is a new version, distinguished by its red anodized aluminum housing. Threads are M12 and mounting nuts included. Runs off 5 to 24 volts, and gives a nice square wave so there’s no variable voltage issues. Has a 1 meter long, 3 wire pigtail. Here’s what the wires do:

Brown – Supply voltage; connect to either VREF or 12 volt switched power.

Black – Output signal. On a MegaSquirt, connects to pin 24. We just set our MegaSquirt up for the VR conditioner and it works great. V3.0 MicroSquirts can also do this, but older MicroSquirts will need to use the Hall effect input. Note that this one requires a pull up resistor. This tees into both the supply voltage and the output signal wire. Use a 1K resistor teed between the VREF and signal wire to pull this up.

Blue – Ground.

Be careful if you are switching to this from a previous version of our sensor. The wire colors do not match and a pull up resistor is required for this version.



So I did that and the signal goes in to VR+ .......... Which is where I think I screwed up. I modded for a VR sensor. I think I need to do this for a hall sensor:

"For an optical or Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, most of the time you’ll wire OPTO IN + to the sensor and put a jumper across the two pins of OPTO GND. Many of these need a pull up resistor; in most cases, a 1K resistor in the 12 volt position on R3 will do the trick. There are a couple of other circuits you can try if this doesn’t give a steady signal. The most common versions are to use different pull up resistors, or to remove the Opto GND jumper, do not connect OPTO IN +, and connect OPTO IN – to the sensor. If connecting Opto IN – to the sensor, you must have a pull up resistor – the circuit won’t work without it. This version requires the opposite Ignition Input Capture setting from the normal version."



Based on that, I need to do the following:
1) move the signal input from VR+ over to OPTO IN +
2) verify OPTO GND has a jumper, but I believe it does from the TFI circuit previously.
3) Install a 1k resister in the 12v position on R3
 
Last edited:
0E5C8E1B-F9C8-4951-BD09-034457186FF4.gif
 
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Based on the ignition input page,
https://www.diyautotune.com/support...entation/diypnp-v1-5/ignition-control/#vr_ckp

it says use going high, but to switch it if the module gets hot. I'll swap it around and see what happens. As for the trigger pickup, I wired it wrong. I have no idea how I wired it wrong, because I made my notes based off the link above, but going back through my pictures, I can see that I did not run the negative wire for the sensor to VR-. That's really frustrating... I took a lot of time to make sure I did it all right too.

Edit*** wait, maybe it's right. ...reading...


Edit2 - Ok, so I have the red, new style HALL SENSOR. I wired it up based on these directions:
New (red body) threaded sensor

Hall effect crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. This is a new version, distinguished by its red anodized aluminum housing. Threads are M12 and mounting nuts included. Runs off 5 to 24 volts, and gives a nice square wave so there’s no variable voltage issues. Has a 1 meter long, 3 wire pigtail. Here’s what the wires do:

Brown – Supply voltage; connect to either VREF or 12 volt switched power.

Black – Output signal. On a MegaSquirt, connects to pin 24. We just set our MegaSquirt up for the VR conditioner and it works great. V3.0 MicroSquirts can also do this, but older MicroSquirts will need to use the Hall effect input. Note that this one requires a pull up resistor. This tees into both the supply voltage and the output signal wire. Use a 1K resistor teed between the VREF and signal wire to pull this up.

Blue – Ground.

Be careful if you are switching to this from a previous version of our sensor. The wire colors do not match and a pull up resistor is required for this version.



So I did that and the signal goes in to VR+ .......... Which is where I think I screwed up. I modded for a VR sensor. I think I need to do this for a hall sensor:

"For an optical or Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, most of the time you’ll wire OPTO IN + to the sensor and put a jumper across the two pins of OPTO GND. Many of these need a pull up resistor; in most cases, a 1K resistor in the 12 volt position on R3 will do the trick. There are a couple of other circuits you can try if this doesn’t give a steady signal. The most common versions are to use different pull up resistors, or to remove the Opto GND jumper, do not connect OPTO IN +, and connect OPTO IN – to the sensor. If connecting Opto IN – to the sensor, you must have a pull up resistor – the circuit won’t work without it. This version requires the opposite Ignition Input Capture setting from the normal version."



Based on that, I need to do the following:
1) move the signal input from VR+ over to OPTO IN +
2) verify OPTO GND has a jumper, but I believe it does from the TFI circuit previously.
3) Install a 1k resister in the 12v position on R3
Ok must only be an issue with the ms2 with going high melting the coils for logic level spark.
dont forget to change it to wasted spark not wasted COP failing to do this will only fire one of the coil sets.
 
I was able to sneak out in the garage for what felt like 10 minutes last night. I reconfigured the MS jumpers, changed the settings in tunerstudio, still got nothing. I need to spend some time on the battery cables. There isn't really enough juice to turn the motor over fast enough to get some decent cranking logs.
 
Hmm that sucks, how exactly do you have the jumpers configured? Do you have a Jimstim? Pictures inside ecu.... I tested mine with a 12v diode, just need to do a tiny bit of ohms law and figure out the "resistance" of the diode then pair it with a resistor that will get you to the value you need. Or just solder a 470ohm resistor to it.
Then go into testmode and enable your ignition outputs then have them pulse. You should see the diode pulsing if the outputs are working.
 
Hmm that sucks, how exactly do you have the jumpers configured? Do you have a Jimstim? Pictures inside ecu.... I tested mine with a 12v diode, just need to do a tiny bit of ohms law and figure out the "resistance" of the diode then pair it with a resistor that will get you to the value you need. Or just solder a 470ohm resistor to it.
Then go into testmode and enable your ignition outputs then have them pulse. You should see the diode pulsing if the outputs are working.
The signal from the crank trigger comes in on pin 56 like the factory signal did and goes to OPTO + IN now.
 
OK did you add anything on the input side? pullup ect...

Hoopty ign log.PNG
here is the ignition log you sent me, i can see 3 teeth on the log then it quite. the spacing looks normal-ish on the first 3 teeth, you may want to check the spacing on the sensor to the wheel.
 
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OK did you add anything on the input side? pullup ect...

Hoopty ign log.PNG
here is the ignition log you sent me, i can see 3 teeth on the log then it quite. the spacing looks normal-ish on the first 3 teeth, you may want to check the spacing on the sensor to the wheel.
Cool! Yes, I added the 1k resistor on R3 in the 12v position, and verified there was a jumper on OPTO GND.
 
I HAVE SPARK!

For whatever reason, I was only getting spark on the Spark D (MS has 4 spark outputs, A->D) for all of the coils. After opening the case, I found one strand of wire had come loose from the spark A output and was touching spark B. After consulting with @a91what , I rigged up an LED and used Tunerstudio's coil testing function to test fire the coils, and I have all 4 outputs sending spark like they should be. Unfortunately, that's as far as I got... My wife came home and that was all she wrote last night.

Now, @CarMichael Angelo , I can comfortably say I'm an hour from running :D
 
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Oh, Steve - forgot to mention that I moved the Hall sensor closer to the wheel. I logged it, but forgot to send it. Seems to have done better??

I only have the lite version of megalog viewer, so I dont have the ignition log viewer.
 
I HAVE SPARK!

For whatever reason, I was only getting spark on the Spark D (MS has 4 spark outputs, A->D) for all of the coils. After opening the case, I found one strand of wire had come loose from the spark A output and was touching spark B. After consulting with @a91what , I rigged up an LED and used Tunerstudio's coil testing function to test fire the coils, and I have all 4 outputs sending spark like they should be. Unfortunately, that's as far as I got... My wife came home and that was all she wrote last night.

Now, @CarMichael Angelo , I can comfortably say I'm an hour from running :D
well that ain't No Freaking Fair!!!
You're working on yours, while I'm stuck in some Mexican Beach Resort town...
Overlooking the ocean...
Watching the pelicans cruise an inch over the water...
Drinking coffee, and breathing in the Pacific Ocean sea air.....

Dammit!!!
 
Send it to me I have the full version of everything. I'll screenshot it for you
The tuning laptop is at home, I'll get it to you later, but thank you!
well that ain't No Freaking Fair!!!
You're working on yours, while I'm stuck in some Mexican Beach Resort town...
Overlooking the ocean...
Watching the pelicans cruise an inch over the water...
Drinking coffee, and breathing in the Pacific Ocean sea air.....

Dammit!!!
Yeah, that sucks. I've been grinding out 10 hour days, negotiating and writing contracts, listening to people tell me why they can't get to budget, then going home to a crying baby and a tired wife, somehow managing to scrape 30 mins of free time off the bottom of my shoe and savoring it oh so sweetly. Then repeating it 5 times in a row, until saturday rolls around and the day is seemingly over before it starts.
Not sure how you manage that situation youre in there, buddy. ;)
 
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