@CarMichael Angelo id still like to point out that Ford is at fault for putting a 91 harness in a 90 model car. Had they not pulled the ol switcheroo, I’d be doing burnouts in my driveway already
Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?
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Oh come on now we both know thats not how it works.... look at the manufacture date on the car I bet it is into the 91 parts year. I learned this same lesson when i first started rewiring my car, now i verify wire color based off the ecu pin and ring the wires out before making things permanent.
And you'd be right back where you were when you experienced 20+ psi with sht blowin' off your engine and landing across the street somewhere.
I'd wait on the burn out parts.....and I'd be real cautious with my new turbo engine until I knew that it was only gonna make XXX boost at XXX AFR, with XXX timing.
It sputtered yesterday, but the timing is way out. But, we are headed in the right direction
So... I ended up pulling all the plugs out and rigged up a momentary switch so I can stand at the front of the car and turn it over freely while I try and time it. Unfortunately, the timing is all over the place. With the plugs back in, it tries to start, but just wont catch. To me, that says the crank trigger signal is erratic. Just not sure how to fix it at this point.
I sent a log to Steve and posted in the MS group on bookface to see what others say. After some light research, I saw where some have mentioned the OPTO circuit doesnt work too well and that the VR circuit is much better. Will keep an ear out and see what happens.
I sent a log to Steve and posted in the MS group on bookface to see what others say. After some light research, I saw where some have mentioned the OPTO circuit doesnt work too well and that the VR circuit is much better. Will keep an ear out and see what happens.
I'm talking with him now.
Another dude pointed out that I'm using the wrong pull up resister. Need to fix that by switching to 5v power supply instead of 12v.
lol you need to use what the input wants. In this instance the opto input if im not mistaken uses a 5v input. the vr input may like the 12v pullup better. sometimes you have to use a 10k resistor in the r23? [that will need to be confirmed] to lower the threshold voltage for the input.
Hopefully I haven't fried anything. I'm going to switch it to 5v and change the ground to SG and see what happens. I bet it fires right the fck up.
Guys, I'm at a loss here. I went and d*cked around in the garage late last night and somehow managed to go from intermittent, random spark to none at all when cranking.
The ignition outputs (everything from the MS to the LS coils) works as it should, I can test spark A-D and they all work.
I'm certain it's something with the crank trigger and related circuitry. It has 3 wires:
- Power -- which I have a 5v lead coming from what used to be the factory MAP. Voltmeter shows a rock solid 5v
- Ground -- which I have tied to the signal ground wire in the harness. Triple verified it's the correct signal ground wire, also stolen from the factory MAP.
- Signal -- Goes to pin 36, then to OPTO +
- I installed the supplied resister between the power and signal wires
Inside the Megasquirt, I completed the OPTO circuit by installing the 1000 ohm resister in the 12v position and grounded the OPTO ground.
I can run an ignition log, see the square waves, but something isn't doing what it needs to be doing.
At this point, I think I'm going to rip it all out - even though I am certain it's correct - and start over. I thought briefly about sticking the distributor back in, but I can't find the TFI harness connector that goes into the module. Maybe it's a sign?
The ignition outputs (everything from the MS to the LS coils) works as it should, I can test spark A-D and they all work.
I'm certain it's something with the crank trigger and related circuitry. It has 3 wires:
- Power -- which I have a 5v lead coming from what used to be the factory MAP. Voltmeter shows a rock solid 5v
- Ground -- which I have tied to the signal ground wire in the harness. Triple verified it's the correct signal ground wire, also stolen from the factory MAP.
- Signal -- Goes to pin 36, then to OPTO +
- I installed the supplied resister between the power and signal wires
Inside the Megasquirt, I completed the OPTO circuit by installing the 1000 ohm resister in the 12v position and grounded the OPTO ground.
I can run an ignition log, see the square waves, but something isn't doing what it needs to be doing.
At this point, I think I'm going to rip it all out - even though I am certain it's correct - and start over. I thought briefly about sticking the distributor back in, but I can't find the TFI harness connector that goes into the module. Maybe it's a sign?
so you can see the input? but get no action? the car requires that it see 35 even square waves before it will call it one revolution... the last log you sent did not have that. Did you change any ignition settings?
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