The quickest way to gain 40 hp

[BurningRubber]

75 shot and call it a day. 50 shot isn't that noticeable, 75 is fairly safe and it's there when you want it, not when you dont... plus you will end up with more torque than spending the money on heads/cam/tune/longtubes and spend a LOT less.

 

[BurningRubber]

And on the note of LS1's...

Catback only SS, A4 went 12.9x on street tires. Buddy's M6 T/A, lid and catback went 12.80's on street tires.

 

[DogVomit]

If you go more than a grand in, you're throwing money at 40 whp, which will still allow Japcraps to hand you your ass.

Save and get blown, man. Then you will be running with the big boys... might even hand a few specialized imports cars their ass, sporting 400 plus to the wheels

 

[twogts4us]

More Horsepower... I quoted your post which was all about horsepower.

More power = more acceleration when you're not burning rubber or shifting poorly. Whether you run a scalding quarter mile time for what you have or not, the car with a better power to weight ratio will give you more SOTP feel. Power does matter in that regard.

You didn't quote me.

 

[twogts4us]

im making 265HP 301 TQ dynod at MPH in atlanta.. i think that may be close to 300 crank.

Flowmaster Catback
O/R H pipe
Accufab plenum
75mm throttle body
K&N FIPKII intake
DIablo tuner (which sucks, i have SCT now so i may b making more power)

Is this a 2V? To be honest, I am skeptical about this claim. I'm not saying it's your doing, but more likely the dyno operator. A stock 2V typically generates an honest 225 HP (+-5). I really have a hard time believing that these bolt ons added up to 40 RWHP.

 

[Winters98GT]

First, I would learn to the drive the car properly. Take the car to the track and make 15-20 passes over 2-3 trips. Save your slips, post them up and see what you can improve on each time. If you want to race, the first mod needs to be a drag radial. Nitto makes a great beginner tire, and will allow you to get out of the hole and make more consistant passes than a street tire since you have stock gears and power. Then look at a set of MT or BFG drag radials if you start adding gears and more power.

 

[Skidzz]

Is this a 2V? To be honest, I am skeptical about this claim. I'm not saying it's your doing, but more likely the dyno operator. A stock 2V typically generates an honest 225 HP (+-5). I really have a hard time believing that these bolt ons added up to 40 RWHP.

I agree. My PI-swapped '96 with cams, tune.....well just read my sig. It only makes 265 rwhp with all that. BUT I have beating a few LS1's, but I beat the drivers. Most of the LS1's that I've lost too were auto's. Just goes to show how important the driver mod is.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

What kind of K-member brace is that in the picture in that link? Is that for a convertible?

Yeah, that car must have been a convertible.

No way you're going to gain 30 RWHp without at least long tubes and under drive pulleys in addition to catback, midpipe and cold air intake and maybe a tune. I think you'd be hard pressed to get 300 RWHP without stage 3 cams/springs and some well matched heads.

Read my post again below...I said 300RWHP with cams and longtubes. No headwork needed. The dyno sheet in my link proves it. His cars have safe tunes and live a long time. He's been in business 20 years.

260HP engines put down about 211-220RWHP. With a mid pipe, cat-back, and a cold air induction you should lay down 240-250RWHP. With pullies, TB, longtubes, cams and a tune, you could reach almost 300RWHP.

Read this: 1999-2004 Mustang GT Naturally Aspirated Performance Package

 

[ChillPhatCat]

You didn't quote me.

Whatever, that's really not an important detail, I assumed the person I quoted was the same that questioned what I meant by the post...

Yeah, that car must have been a convertible.


Read my post again below...I said 300RWHP with cams and longtubes. No headwork needed. The dyno sheet in my link proves it. His cars have safe tunes and live a long time. He's been in business 20 years.

I was more disputing what you said about gaining 30-40 Hp on a midpipe, catback and and an intake. I wouldn't believe that for a second unless I personally installed those parts and saw it dynod before and after, I meant that pullies, longtubes and a tune on top of those mods would probably get you to 240-250 RWHp.

300 hp with those other parts you listed, set up by someone that has been doing it for a while... I could believe that a lot easier. I don't think you're going to see those gains from just buying some performance parts online and then installing them in your garage, unless you buy a proven "package". Part matching is a big part of making good numbers out of mild parts, when you do come across those builds.

 

[Mike97gt]

The upper limit for the block is around 400 RWHp... Probably best to dial it back to 375 RWHp to stay in safe limits. That'd be what maybe 8 lbs on a roots blower? I'd imagine the TR3650 should be fine if you're not going to be tracking the car regularly... it's rated to something like 360 Ft-lbs of torque.

Just to clear this up for him it's the internals not the block that will crap out first. The modular blocks are plenty strong it's the factory pistons, rods, crank that you would need to replace if you want to go much over 400

 

[ChillPhatCat]

Just to clear this up for him it's the internals not the block that will crap out first. The modular blocks are plenty strong it's the factory pistons, rods, crank that you would need to replace if you want to go much over 400

Sorry, yeah, I have a bad habit of just saying "block" where I mean that the stock short block can't handle such and such power. In most any engine the internals are what go first when you put some boost through it.

 

[twogts4us]

Just to clear this up for him it's the internals not the block that will crap out first. The modular blocks are plenty strong it's the factory pistons, rods, crank that you would need to replace if you want to go much over 400

Factory Pistons and Rods - agreed.

Factory Crank - ? I disagree, it will take you well over 400 HP. For those forging their bottom end, adding a Cobra crank is a natural move, but not totally necessary. How many broken cranks have you seen?

 

[Mstngman]

I'm fairly new to the 4.6 liter motor. I just bought an 02 Mustang GT, and it is rated at 260 hp. Thats a stupid number. I mean, why not 300? So, what I want to know is, what is the most cost effective way to bump this car up into the 300 horse range?

-Justin-

I just finished a 2002 Mustang GT: Here is what I installed, Mid JBA Headers,JBA H-Pipe,Edelbrock Victor Jr. manifold,MSD Coils,Edelbrock fuel rails,21lb injectors, but bought some 42lb for when I re-do the engine and install a Pro Charger,BBK 78mm throttle body,Stage 2 Comp Cams,Comp Valve springs,BBK Cold Air Intake,4:10 Gears from Ford Racing, Front and Rear Eiback springs,shocks, and Sway bars,BBK Camber Caster plates,Racing Clutch. This car was tested at GTR Performance in Riverside,CA and the rear wheel horsepower was at 296+. This is a naturally aspirated engine that has over 140,000 miles on it and for these numbers I think it was really great.
Remember that at the rear wheels these cars will give you 210hp so at 80 more horsepower it was well worth it. My buddy was really happy with the car. It sounds like a Monster. Oh I also installed Borla exhaust wich sounds unreal...

 

[Clayton302]

Dynos are used for tuning not so great for comparing one car to another or just for numbers. Although a dyno readout from a good shop will get you a ball park figure of how the car is doing. Read up on the truth behind dyno results. They are a tool. You could change a result by simply changing the correction factor. Every dyno reads different. So if you need or want dyno service then pick a trusted and preferably local dyno shop to run a baseline on and go back to that dyno and insure that the setup is the same (correction factor) and operated by the same person then look for the changes in HP and TQ after mods. Anyone that posted "my car makes X amount of power so yours should too or this car did this" on and on and on.. Those people might benefit from reading this: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1103_chassis_dyno_testing/viewall.html

I'm going to do kinda of the same thing as an example: A friend of mine bought a nasty build LS3 car and took it to a dyno shop and got a readout of 430 corrected RWHP. He was disappointed with the results so he took it to the shop that built it and got 530 corrected RWHP now he tells everyone he has 530 RWHP and I follow behind and tell them he has 430 . Not really but which number to you think would be closer?

To answer the OP: Just start with the basics (intake, exhaust, gears, email tune (joe at tricktuners) oh and the most important good tires) and go from there. If you really want 300 to race with on a budget do something like a zex wet kit and set it up for 75-100. The only reason I suggest the Zex kit is because of the safety features for beginners (will shut off the NOS if fuel pressure drops) that's about the safest kit you can do for low cost.

Have fun with what ever you do!!