More Horsepower... I quoted your post which was all about horsepower.
More power = more acceleration when you're not burning rubber or shifting poorly. Whether you run a scalding quarter mile time for what you have or not, the car with a better power to weight ratio will give you more SOTP feel. Power does matter in that regard.
im making 265HP 301 TQ dynod at MPH in atlanta.. i think that may be close to 300 crank.
Flowmaster Catback
O/R H pipe
Accufab plenum
75mm throttle body
K&N FIPKII intake
DIablo tuner (which sucks, i have SCT now so i may b making more power)
Is this a 2V? To be honest, I am skeptical about this claim. I'm not saying it's your doing, but more likely the dyno operator. A stock 2V typically generates an honest 225 HP (+-5). I really have a hard time believing that these bolt ons added up to 40 RWHP.
What kind of K-member brace is that in the picture in that link? Is that for a convertible?
No way you're going to gain 30 RWHp without at least long tubes and under drive pulleys in addition to catback, midpipe and cold air intake and maybe a tune. I think you'd be hard pressed to get 300 RWHP without stage 3 cams/springs and some well matched heads.
260HP engines put down about 211-220RWHP. With a mid pipe, cat-back, and a cold air induction you should lay down 240-250RWHP. With pullies, TB, longtubes, cams and a tune, you could reach almost 300RWHP.
Read this: 1999-2004 Mustang GT Naturally Aspirated Performance Package
You didn't quote me.
Yeah, that car must have been a convertible.
Read my post again below...I said 300RWHP with cams and longtubes. No headwork needed. The dyno sheet in my link proves it. His cars have safe tunes and live a long time. He's been in business 20 years.
The upper limit for the block is around 400 RWHp... Probably best to dial it back to 375 RWHp to stay in safe limits. That'd be what maybe 8 lbs on a roots blower? I'd imagine the TR3650 should be fine if you're not going to be tracking the car regularly... it's rated to something like 360 Ft-lbs of torque.
Just to clear this up for him it's the internals not the block that will crap out first. The modular blocks are plenty strong it's the factory pistons, rods, crank that you would need to replace if you want to go much over 400
Just to clear this up for him it's the internals not the block that will crap out first. The modular blocks are plenty strong it's the factory pistons, rods, crank that you would need to replace if you want to go much over 400
I just finished a 2002 Mustang GT: Here is what I installed, Mid JBA Headers,JBA H-Pipe,Edelbrock Victor Jr. manifold,MSD Coils,Edelbrock fuel rails,21lb injectors, but bought some 42lb for when I re-do the engine and install a Pro Charger,BBK 78mm throttle body,Stage 2 Comp Cams,Comp Valve springs,BBK Cold Air Intake,4:10 Gears from Ford Racing, Front and Rear Eiback springs,shocks, and Sway bars,BBK Camber Caster plates,Racing Clutch. This car was tested at GTR Performance in Riverside,CA and the rear wheel horsepower was at 296+. This is a naturally aspirated engine that has over 140,000 miles on it and for these numbers I think it was really great.I'm fairly new to the 4.6 liter motor. I just bought an 02 Mustang GT, and it is rated at 260 hp. Thats a stupid number. I mean, why not 300? So, what I want to know is, what is the most cost effective way to bump this car up into the 300 horse range?
-Justin-
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