The stang has issues...

my66coupe

Founding Member
Apr 30, 2002
1,134
0
36
Arizona fountain hills
Ok in the past year, I have added new cylinder heads, switched from the performer intake, to the wieand stealth intake, went from a holley 600 to a edelbrock 600, went from 2:79 gears to 3:55 gears, Ive also done a shift kit to the C-4, and now have a B&M megashifter. The car just doesnt feel right. In park, the car sounds good and revs up fine, but driving it around, it just doesnt feel right. When i put in the new heads and intake, with my crappy holley carb, I used to be able to burn out in drive and not have to stick it in low but after the gears, shift kit and shifter the car went down hill. My question is, Will a incorrect installation of a valve body, mess up my performance? Like bad acceleration, not being able to do burnouts anymore, ect... I think im going to go back to my stock shifter because the B&M has been nothing but trouble. Any ideas??

Mike
 
Sorry I cant really help but I know how you feel.

For the past two months my car has been having issues and doesn't ''feel'' right. while I am yet to get the kinks out, the engine does run but has no power. Bad acceleration, can hardly chirp the tires, and ''mood swings''. It all adds up when just months before the engine was great and felt powerful and now so weak. :( And when you cant find out what the problem is, it is really frustrating.

Just keep on man, and I am sure you will get the car to feel right again.
 
Well, since this started after you place the shifter kit, shifter, and gears in; I would say it would be one of those. It's not your gears, as 3.55's will not make doing burnouts hard.:rlaugh: So it's sounds like it's either your shifter kit, or shifter. I don't know too much about either, but I would assume the there would be a problem with the shift kit before the shifter. I had a Cressida that had a problem kind of like this. When I placed it into drive, it would either stall, our idle really low and rough; and I would be able to go from 0 all the way to about 55ish before it would shift again. It made me think that when I put it in drive, it was in like 2nd or 3rd; but I donno how that would make it stall. Does the amount of resistence in a torque converter varrie depending on what gear the tranny is in. :shrug:
Edit: I just though of something else. It's it possiable that you have a bad motor mount?

-Shaun
 
You have a good package there. What size engine and What are the heads you put on. and what cam do you have and what # shift kit was it. This type of question is hard.
With all this work you done make shore that your getting all the shifts, start out slow and listen for the correct shift pattern.
I personally dont like Edelbroke carbs but thats me.
It sounds like your starting out in 3rd gear or the heads have to big a cc volume
and you lost compression. You have the timing correct right? Need more info....
 
Stock size combustion chambers, they are ported and polished, 1.90 Intake 1.60 exhaust valves. The engine is a pretty fresh mexican 302. The shift kit was a TransGo kit, which is the only one offered for the 65-66 C-4. Im starting to think, in the installation guide for the kit, it said to use a heavy grease on the valves, but I just coated them in extra tranny fluid....Maybe a valve is stuck? Yesterday I switched my tranny vacumm lines around and now have it hooked up to the vacumm port that has vacumm at around 2k RPM. It improved a lot, but shifting is still poor. With the megashifter, I will go from 1st to second, and it is still in 1st, but when i go from 2nd to Drive it goes into second and then shifts into third. My shifter is adjusted pretty well. Im going to go mess around with it today. Thanks

Mike
 
my66coupe said:
Ok in the past year, I have added new cylinder heads, switched from the performer intake, to the wieand stealth intake, went from a holley 600 to a edelbrock 600, went from 2:79 gears to 3:55 gears, Ive also done a shift kit to the C-4, and now have a B&M megashifter. The car just doesnt feel right. In park, the car sounds good and revs up fine, but driving it around, it just doesnt feel right. When i put in the new heads and intake, with my crappy holley carb, I used to be able to burn out in drive and not have to stick it in low but after the gears, shift kit and shifter the car went down hill. My question is, Will a incorrect installation of a valve body, mess up my performance? Like bad acceleration, not being able to do burnouts anymore, ect... I think im going to go back to my stock shifter because the B&M has been nothing but trouble. Any ideas??

Mike

Does the car feel like the tranny is slipping? Did you upgrade your torque converter? You could very easily of blown out the stock TC with the motor upgrades and then the shift kit as well......neutral drops and repeated burnouts are hard on transmission components.
 
Yesterday I switched my tranny vacumm lines around and now have it hooked up to the vacumm port that has vacumm at around 2k RPM.

The trans needs a direct vac port, it should be hooked directly to the intake manifold that provides the highest vac.

as for the lack of performance try working the timing curve on the dist.
you should see some improvements.

PB
 
my66coupe said:
Ok in the past year, I have added new cylinder heads, switched from the performer intake, to the wieand stealth intake, went from a holley 600 to a edelbrock 600, went from 2:79 gears to 3:55 gears, Ive also done a shift kit to the C-4, and now have a B&M megashifter. The car just doesnt feel right. In park, the car sounds good and revs up fine, but driving it around, it just doesnt feel right. When i put in the new heads and intake, with my crappy holley carb, I used to be able to burn out in drive and not have to stick it in low but after the gears, shift kit and shifter the car went down hill. My question is, Will a incorrect installation of a valve body, mess up my performance? Like bad acceleration, not being able to do burnouts anymore, ect... I think im going to go back to my stock shifter because the B&M has been nothing but trouble. Any ideas??

Mike

When you changed to the B&M shifter, does it take into account the goofy shift pattern on the 65-66 C-4's? I had the same issue with mine because it was actually starting in D2 when the shifter said D1 (large dot). The end result was always starting in second, which does wonders for preventing burnouts!

Just a thought.

Frank
 
Frankies65 said:
When you changed to the B&M shifter, does it take into account the goofy shift pattern on the 65-66 C-4's? I had the same issue with mine because it was actually starting in D2 when the shifter said D1 (large dot). The end result was always starting in second, which does wonders for preventing burnouts!

Just a thought.

Frank
Hmmm, Good point Frank
not all C4 tranys are the same, I think they done that shift pattern in 65 then changed it in 66. I found this out on my 65 vert. I was driving around with the shifter on the first dot which I thought was right, but it started out in 2nd gear and had no power pulling out,, I was bummed, till I figured it out.
the next dot gave me all three gears so if you have an early C4 and the shifter thinks the first thing after (N) IS DRIVE, then that might be your problem because as Frank said its really starting out in 2nd.
:cheers: