Time for an overhaul!... now what do I do?

officer dick

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Apr 10, 2007
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So my stang's been burning loads of oil for some time now and it just crossed over 100k. I know I need to replace my piston rings, but I figure since I'll be getting that deep into the engine, why don't I just overhaul it and build it up a bit in case I do decide of throw a turbo on it. I have a full machine shop at my disposal and a garage with all the tools I need. Now what? What brands should I go for, how much should I boar it over? If I go with 331 or 347 would I have to get new heads right away?
So many questions, can someone point me in the right direction? Any info that can help is welcome.
 
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Well if you are going to the trouble to replace the piston rings I would def rebuild the whole thing....IF you go with a 331 or 347 I would get a set of heads to as stock heads are not going to flow enough air for that displacement. If you want to keep the stock heads you better get a HUGE port and polish job. And also you mentioned that you might want to put a turbo. If you get the bottom end now you bettter know if you want forced induction or not. The reason is the compression of your piston will matter. You can run FI on a high compression motor so this is up to you. I would go around stock compression and throw some gas on it for now if you want to go stroker. You will need to upgrade alot of things if you went stroker and turbo. ie clutch, tranny, rearend,tires, and possibly ways of stiffining the body
 
All right, well I've been researching this now, and I haven't made much leway. I still don't know specifics on different combos. I've decided to go N/A and if I at some point want to go turbo, well, then I'll kick myself, oh well. I'd like to be running around 330-400 hp, what should I buy? I'm in the military, so I have the benefit of an on base shop, and a machine shop. I talked to them and they gave me a estimate of $3100. This includes all necessary machining, crank, rods, pistons, heads, custom cam and intake, assembly required.

Can I do better? I forgot the specific brands he sighted for this setup, but he says it's worked out great before. It seems like a good shop to me.
 
if you need an overbore, the machine work should be well under a grand. if not, $500 or less is appropriate. Keep the stock crank and rods. Get new pistons. Replace all bearings, rings, oil pump, gaskets, and water pump. then you get into performance stuff.

$3100 for everything is too cheap unless they are doing the machine work for free. Get the specifics and let us know.

if you can spend the money, get heads, cam, pushrods, lifters, intake, throttle body, maf, etc. it may be a good idea to buy something like the trick flow top end kit for $2500.

330 to 400hp is going to be tough n/a without stroking. I would keep the compression around 9:1 and plan on getting a turbo or a blower at some point. you'll well eclipse that power mark and if you keep the components mild, the car will drive great.
 
Well, I've decided I'm going to prep it for a turbo. So here's what I'm looking at. lowering my compression ratio via larger cc heads. (What's the stock cc btw?) Keep it a 306 w/ all forged internals. Now what are some specs I'll want to be looking for in heads, cam and intake? I'm thinking either a 65-60mm turbo or dual 50-55mm. Thanks for the insight.
 
look at the CHP website. they offer some great package deals and they have great customer service if you need to have any questions answered.
 
Last I checked, you can buy a stroker 347 shortblock for under 2000 from Fordstrokers.com, put on a pair of Canfield heads and a good cam from the custom grinder of your choice(I use Jay Allen) and your Mustang will reach your goals easily. There are some other things to consider though, subframe connectors/torque box re-enforcement, HD clutch, what gear to run etc, you will also probably need both more tire and for sure more frequent changing of the back tires if you build it like that!

Have fun

Matt