HELP ! My '95 cobra jumped time according to mechanic at a local ford dealeship. I elected to repair myself. When I removed the timing cover the cam sprocket and crank sprocket appeared to be 180 degrees off. The manual that I have says the timing mark on the crank should point up and the mark on the cam should point down, towards each other. is this correct?
Timing issues
- Thread starter gregclay
- Start date
That's correct but I can't imagine it being 180* out. Before you adjust anything make sure #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
You are correct. But remember, the crank rotates twice for each rotation of the camshaft. You're probably not on the compression stroke.
Thanks Guys, I already lined the marks up an put her back together. She starts and runs but shes just not right, Idles a lightly lower than normal and the power is not there. I ran out of time last night so I didnt get to play with the dist. timing.
I didnt realize the crank turned twice, so its is possible that i may not be on the compression stroke? I did verify the dist. was pointing to the #1 plug when the marks were lined up. So I probably need to verify that #1 cyl. is on the compression stroke.
I didnt realize the crank turned twice, so its is possible that i may not be on the compression stroke? I did verify the dist. was pointing to the #1 plug when the marks were lined up. So I probably need to verify that #1 cyl. is on the compression stroke.
desertcox05
New Member
if it were 180 out, the motor would be backfiring and running like crap.
sounds like your timing is off. 10*btdc is stock, I'm running 12* using 89 octane but others run 14* or more using 91-93.
sounds like your timing is off. 10*btdc is stock, I'm running 12* using 89 octane but others run 14* or more using 91-93.
I believe when the marks line up the engine is at 0*. The distributor needs to start at 10*BTDC (before top dead center). If you don't have a timing light, this is the time to buy one. Also don't forget to pull the SPOUT connector near the inlet tube, it's a gray plug in a black connector. Pull the connector to stop the computer from adjusting the timing.
I just wanted to add a bit of very basic info 
There are two kinds of ... time ... we speak of here
One is the crank to cam time
and
The other is the dizzy to cam time
I know ... I know ... most know that but we got some folk who are just
starting out and I thought it would be good to point that out
Usually when a mechanic talks about a car ... Jumping Time
He is talking about a high milage motor that has a lot of slack in the
t chain thus it shears off a tooth or two on the cam gear and slips
just a wee bit
OR
The slack is so much it just jumps over a tooth or two on the cam gear
Anyhow ... just a bit of trivial stuff
and yes ... There are two tdc's on a 4 stroke motor in a complete cycle
Grady
There are two kinds of ... time ... we speak of here
One is the crank to cam time
and
The other is the dizzy to cam time
I know ... I know ... most know that but we got some folk who are just
starting out and I thought it would be good to point that out
Usually when a mechanic talks about a car ... Jumping Time
He is talking about a high milage motor that has a lot of slack in the
t chain thus it shears off a tooth or two on the cam gear and slips
just a wee bit
OR
The slack is so much it just jumps over a tooth or two on the cam gear
Anyhow ... just a bit of trivial stuff
and yes ... There are two tdc's on a 4 stroke motor in a complete cycle
Grady
Good info Grady. It's easy for us regulars here to forget the basics and presume the new guys know them too. Always good to state it anyway for folks using the search or for when Google indexes this page.
Well, Thanks for all the usefull info guy's. I was driving her the other day and and she sputered and died, and would not restart. When I got her home I discovered the magnet popped off of the distributor= No Filre!, any way Now i am wondering if this was the problem to begin with and the dealership either lie to me or mis diagnosed the problem.
So I suppose I have to re-time everything from the conpression stroke on #1 Cyl. and replace the Dizzy. Any one have any suggestions on Dizzy's. This is a dailey driver.
So I suppose I have to re-time everything from the conpression stroke on #1 Cyl. and replace the Dizzy. Any one have any suggestions on Dizzy's. This is a dailey driver.
If you just have to replace the dizzy you don't need to match up with the compression stroke. You just have to mark which direction the rotor in the dizzy is pointing. I use a bit of tape on the engine somewhere nearby. When you put in the new dizzy, you can then get the timing close to what you had before. You should still set the timing to make sure you are on 10* BTDC.
The magnet you mentioned - are you sure it's a magnet? Is it part of the cap or the rotor (pointer)? If so, those are cheap replacement parts that can be bought separate from the dizzy. The metal ring below the rotor can also be replaced easily.
As for replacement dizzy's, you can get remanufactured ones at your local auto parts store for ~$80 or so. You may have problems with those, since the PIP in the dizzy is only tested, not replaced. But it's certainly an easy way to test if your dizzy is the problem.
The magnet you mentioned - are you sure it's a magnet? Is it part of the cap or the rotor (pointer)? If so, those are cheap replacement parts that can be bought separate from the dizzy. The metal ring below the rotor can also be replaced easily.
As for replacement dizzy's, you can get remanufactured ones at your local auto parts store for ~$80 or so. You may have problems with those, since the PIP in the dizzy is only tested, not replaced. But it's certainly an easy way to test if your dizzy is the problem.
Well, it may be that it is just magnetized. but it is the the part that triggers the pickup as the dizzy rotates. It is just below the Metal Plate, I can see where it was attached, looks like it just broke off. When I popped the cap off i saw it stuck to one of the screws in the bottom of the dist. So theres nothing to trigger the pickup. I was Thinking about an MSD Anyone have any knowledge of those?
Sounds like the PIP finally failed. It would definitely cause the problems you listed. I would personally stay away from MSD - I keep hearing of folks having problems with their products. When they work, they do well - but I keep hearing of failures or problems. If you are looking for a nice replacement, I recommend these guys:
5.0 Ignition Products
Their Dyna-Module coil is pretty impressive even with the stock dizzy.
5.0 Ignition Products
Their Dyna-Module coil is pretty impressive even with the stock dizzy.
The dizzy is identical between the GT and Cobra. In fact, the engine block and rotating assembly (usually called the short block) is identical. The Cobra has the GT-40 cylinder heads and Cobra intake that add the extra horsepower.
Look for a 94-95 5.0 dizzy.
Look for a 94-95 5.0 dizzy.
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
When i bought a PIP for my stang i did some research on the part numbers. The Cobra PIP is the same part number as the 94-97 351 PIP....I could be wrong but i believe the Cobra/ 351 PIP supports higher RPMs. Either way i would get the Cobra one.
I know this is a dumb question but did you just adjust the timing or did you buy a new timing set? Just covering all bases.
Chris
I know this is a dumb question but did you just adjust the timing or did you buy a new timing set? Just covering all bases.
Chris
Interesting, I've never heard of this before. Do you have the part numbers handy? Also, I wonder if the Cobra PIP you found was for the 95 Cobra R, which was of course a 351.
Yes, I did install a new timing set. The old chain had llot of
slack in it.
Before i removed the dizzy, I removed the plug from #1 ,removed the belt, disconnected the battery , marked the #1 on the insde of the dizzy cap and rotated the crank around. when I started to get close to #1 I stuck my finger in #1 plug hole. I had compression! so Timing should be right, Marks on the pulley are lined up and I have compression when Rotor is pointed to #1.
The Part Number on the dizzy I removed is F4ZE12127AA.
Wonder why they didnt put a bearing or bushing in the aluminum housing.
Thats whats wrong with mine, the shaft just wore out the aluminum, so now it has a lot of slop in there.
slack in it.
Before i removed the dizzy, I removed the plug from #1 ,removed the belt, disconnected the battery , marked the #1 on the insde of the dizzy cap and rotated the crank around. when I started to get close to #1 I stuck my finger in #1 plug hole. I had compression! so Timing should be right, Marks on the pulley are lined up and I have compression when Rotor is pointed to #1.
The Part Number on the dizzy I removed is F4ZE12127AA.
Wonder why they didnt put a bearing or bushing in the aluminum housing.
Thats whats wrong with mine, the shaft just wore out the aluminum, so now it has a lot of slop in there.
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
OK so i just called my local parts store. The pip for a 302 Cobra is the same part number as the PIP for the 351 (1995) F350. But the reg. 302 GT is a diff part number. Not sure why. But i use a Cobra/ 351 PIP in mine.
Try calling a parts store and see if they'll cross reference part numbers for you. BTW im using the 351 Truck /302 Cobra PIP with a stock 5 (T4M0) computer no issues!!!
Chris
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