well you smoked my ass in everything the 1st 1000ft lol i cant hook at all it seems like!(i should be able to now with the 28 inch mt drags) im using a holley 750dp 69jets upfront with a powervalve, the back is sportin 77 jets. my altitude is approx 900ft. I also need to have my distributer re-curved. DAMN i really need to work on my 60ft times! those are killing my overall ET!86bluecobra said:
tonight is the night
- Thread starter Modular2v
- Start date
I have never torn into a carb. I guess i should start reading and take a hand full of jets with me to the test and tune day to see if i can dial her in better. I want a 10 secong time slip and a warning from the track officials to slow down or be kicked off. I think N/A right now i run like a 12.0 AFR at WOT. I bet im even richer on the juice. I'm going to have to take my car for a spin tomorrow and Data log some afr data and see what it is. hard to look at the wide band while you are driving.
How are you leaving on the bottle? Do you have a window switch? Im curious because im still new at this launchin on juice thing! Are you setting there reving and letting the motor use the nitrous while you are watching the tree drop?86bluecobra said:
not a bad idea! my rev limiter is set at 6200 but i swear it felt like it fell on its face just after crossing the traps86bluecobra said:
edit: i just remembered that the nitrous was pulled at 6000. . . thats why it felt like it fell on its face! lol
No i only have a WOT switch and obviously the arming switch. So i have throttle only partially pushed when i launch. Not ideal for consistant rpm launches but seems to work so far. The onl arguement i have for not liking launching with my foot on the floor boards is that then the accelerator pumps have given up there extar fuel shots already. Oh yah and the fact that I have factory axles. So basically I arm the system purge it. then sit at 3500 rpm punch it and juice is on.
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/analyzer.cgi
I seem to use this site for my calculator work all the time.
http://www.mustangworks.com/analyzer.html
I seem to use this site for my calculator work all the time.
http://www.mustangworks.com/analyzer.html
It is a good idea to have safety equipment like that so that you don't lose an engine. LOL an Auto eh? I guess you will be quicker with one. Do you drive this car on the street? never as fun with an auto.Modular2v said:thats not a bad idea! But i like my window switch staying active incase i miss a shifti think im going to get a c4 this winter though
is it really worth driving 200miles to just get kicked off the track at fun ford this weekend ? Or should i just have fun and run all motor? I will get there around noon tomorrow so i might ask the guy if i can make one bottle pass during the test and tune session and still be elligible to compete saturday and sunday after running one pass faster than 11.49 w/o a cage
Thats what im thinking86bluecobra said:
But it would kind of be like spitting in their faces if i ran a low low 11 or high 10 without a cage
I think im going to go out and buy a video camera b4 i leave so one of my friends can film. My camera broke last week for some odd reason(dropping it
352Ford2
New Member
Modular2v said:i pull the tires all motor. . . i did not pull them on the juice! i cant launch on the juice,well i can but, the rev limiter is set at 6200 rpms and the window switch is set to activation range of 3000-6000 rpm with a full throttle switch. so as you can see i really need a 2 step to launch on the sauce. Although i wonder if i launched off the rev limiter, do you think it would bounce back below the 6000 mark activating the nitrous?
When you install your 2 step you need to wire it so the juice will not come one when you are sitting on the low (or any for that matter) rev limiter. N2O + Rev Limiter=bad. It is easily done with a relay. MSD does have I wiring diagram for this, but it is not on their website last time I checked. The tech support will fax/e-mail it to you if you ask though.
I used the factory clutch switch with a momentary set switch to activate mine. On our factory clutch switches there are 2 harness going into it, one is for the computer (leave it alone) the other for the ignition kill. Go to the junkyard and get an 80’s ford car plug with wiring that goes into that clutch switch. In your car pull the plug on the ignition harness and bypass it (so now the car will start/turn over without the clutch in) and use the plug you got from the junkyard to activate the 2 step. So when you put the clutch in and you push and release the momentary switch it sets the 2 step to the low rpm limit until you pull the clutch out. You need the momentary switch because if you use the clutch to shift it will turn on the low level rpm limit every time the clutch goes in.
The 2 step will really help you leave consistently and smoothly (well for a stick car anyways) just remember if the track isn’t hooking that day, drop that low rpm limit.
About your car falling on its face at 6100, most rev limiters start dropping spark 100 or 200 RPM's before the actual limit, to kind of slow it down. That is why they usually recommend at a minimum a few hundred rpm difference between the limiter rpm and the n2o cutout rpm. So that doesn’t surprise me at all, also your juice turns off at 6000 which then you are down 100 hp.
Actually I can't remember where i got it from. I ordered all that stuff i think from the performance parts store called MOPAC. The ford local dealership ordered it for me and payed a bit of the cost for me. They give me everything at cost. They kinda sponsor me at our local drag races.Modular2v said:
