Took some pics, i do really own a mustang...

Mustang5L5 said:

Spendy knob.

On the search for something non-Ford so keeping my options open. Problem is I can't get the darn shift boot to lay right with the MGW shifter handle. I feel i need to solve this first because if i drop $200 on a knob and the boot doesn't fit properly it will drive me nuts.

I'm trying to find one of the older MGW 1-peice shift handles. The 2-peice new units sit oddly.

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Mine isn't exactly the pinnacle of perfection either.

The lower boot and front of the shifter is tight to the front of the shifter bezel. I made some clearance on my old bezel, but i'd like to not to this time.

I just purchased new bezel to console clips and boot to bezel clips. Hopefully can get it to stay in place during shifts.
For the longest time i just let the leather boot sit don't under the console. Never really bothered me until i bought this shift knob.
So you are right to be concerned about it, because now i'm.

So last week i realized my brake lights were sometimes staying on after i got out of the car.
Did a little investigating and turns out that the brake light switch would sometimes come to rest against the back steering column bracket.
Must have been like this for a long time. You guys won't have that issue but because of how i installed the hydroboost 15 years ago, the eye hook was pointed downward about 30-45 degrees. In my defense 15 years ago there was no real off the shelf solution and honestly it seemed to brake just fine.

I was going to grind down the bracket (needed like 1/16 off the corner and it's crazy thick), but when i dropped the column down I changed my mind and it was suddenly time to install the MM kit that i've been looking at for years.
Pedal box went relatively easy (I took the entire column out of the car, which turned out for me was a necessity).
But holy hell, getting the hydroboost out with a 4v in the car was the worst thing i've ever had to do, period.
There is zero room. Lots of crows foot sockets, tons of smashed hands and using extendable magnates to get them when they drop.
Basically (and i'm oversimplifying) i took the bolts that hold the master cyl out and bent the mc out of the way (and can only go forward) and then pulled out the hydro unit. This is where removing the column (and having a car lift) comes into play, the lower bolt on the MC cannot be accessed from the top, i don't care how good or how small your hands are, not happing. The flaw in my plan was i already took out the hydro bolts in the car, the wrench didn't move far underneath so when i turned the wrench the booster turned and it couldn't be cracked loose. Luckily with no lower dash, no column and no pedal box it was easy to put the bolts back on.

The main difference in the kit is where the rod is attached to the pedal it's about an inch higher. I may have gotten away with just doing the pedal bracket, but i liked the idea of nice and neat and finished (something i was not about 20 years ago).

The hydroboost kit itself is fairly easy to install. If this were a pushrod engine, i'd guess it's 2 hours of work the first time around. My guess is i have 6 hours in it at 30 minute increments. I chose the walk away and come back fresh method due to heat and frustration. Normally i like one sitting, but in this case i most likely would have broke something. That big custom socket looks daunting, but that was about 1 minute worth of work with my milwaukee 1/2 impact. One thing i'll say is that i'm kinda surprise at how short the adapter plate studs are, they don't even sink all the way into the nuts under the dash and it's not really something you can mess up, the inside pedal box plate fits in formed holes that are already there and the hydro goes flush to the firewall. My guess is they should be a quarter of an inch longer.

Some other notes, when i did the column swap years ago, i repinned and replaced (you can depin the connectors so you don't need to crimp on the wires), which surely would have falling apart. I also redid my 25 year old headlight switch repair which was falling apart (would have failed if i drove at night), but again in my defense, back then all we had were junkyard connectors to replace already bad ones.

Another complication was that 15 years ago in my infinite wisdom, i ran the drivers side harness through the triple tree of hydroboost lines. No excess to pull, more crows feet to get them out (the hydro lines themselves a pain because of how they attach.

I realize not many of you guys other than Mike will want the hydroboost, but one of the nice things about is that it pretty much works with any brake caliper. I'll be going to radial mount calipers and soon as i figure out if i want to learn to powdercoat or pay to have it done.

I wish i took pics of the pedal brackets together, but it was 95 degrees and better pics were not on my mind.

Edit: And the car started when i was done, i disturbed so much under the dash and on the column, i was skeptical of that happening. Especially with the extra wiring going to the column from the 03 cobra computer.

Took an hour drive to test out all my latest handiwork. Not to mention I think the clutch is supposed to get 1200+ cycles for break in, not a clue how much driving that is. But assuming 5 shifts per stop, this could take some time unless I drive to somewhere with a lot of traffic.
Some thoughts on how it went,
The new shift knob is perfect, feels smooth and soft and not rubbery like the leather one I had. It was like a luxury version of the old Hurst with the clear plastic medallion. Yeah it was expensive, but I would do it again.
Correcting the hydroboost rod angle was a huge positve for brake feel, the first couple inches grab quick and solid then and as you press harder it stays smooth. Really didn't take much time to adapt coming from another vehicle.
The MM brake pedal which is 100% metal feels better than the stock rubber pedal too.
As for the clutch, a few pages back I said I wasn't impressed by low effort pedal feel, well judging how it feels parked is not an accurate way of coming to a conclusion. It's much lighter when cruising around and crazy light under aggressive driving. Not sure if it's just the pressure plate or a combination of the disc/pressure/lightened flywheel, but it's really smooth engagement all around, I found it especially easy to rev match for downshifting.
I was accustomed to a heavy clutch that worked like an on/off switch, so far the twin disc appears to be a worthy upgrade. Reminds me of the ceneterforce pressure plate/motorsport disc I used to run back in the day, just with more hp capacity.
Keep in mind I have a new steeda cable and quadrant too, so it was a lot of change in general since my last ride.

I do have to check to see if the clutch safety is adjustable, I had to really drive it to the floor to start the car. I had the pedal box out, so I wouldn't doubt something is slightly off. I took the floor mat out for the time being, I'll figure it when I get my mm adjustable clutch pedal kit.

I don't believe the pedal kit is going to affect the safety switch, I suppose it could if I moved the pedal up, but I'm going to move it down. So it will still bottom out at the same spot.

I was under the impression that the kit changes the pedal angle without affecting any of the mechanicals. Not sure it matters, I'm sure as soon as I get in there I'll figure it out.

So far I'm liking this clutch, it's nice that it doesn't chatter during non aggressive driving. Though It's odd that in the driveway it feels moderately heavy, but on the road it's as light as can be.

On a other note, I was thinking about how far I have to press the clutch to release the safety. I came to the conclusion the adjustable pedal is lto make my issue worse if I lower the pedal. So I watched a couple videos and the switch is actually adjustable. It must have gotten knocked around when I removed the pedal box. I'll take a better look when I get the adjustable pedal kit. I'd do it now but I don't feel like taking the seat out twice (though they are now studs in the rear I'll also buy a ratcheting wrench with a hinge).

My old clutch was rated for like 700rwhp and it was somewhere between 15-20 years old. I used it on 3 different engines and flywheels.
I don't think back then high hp clutches were all that good. It literally was a light switch, either engaged or not, just was no in between, i really hated it, i should not have waited 15+ years to swap it out.
Clutch cable routing is good, i switched it to the steeda cable for a new edge. Longer cable, gentler curve.
It's probably just in my head or it's just I have fond memories of one of my old clutches, Centerforce pressure (just the basic) plate and motorsport disc. That clutch was so smooth and so light that the first time i drove it, i thought the cable wasn't connected.

Another thing that may have altered how things feel is the removal of my old quadrant and the swap to the steeda, i think a couple pages back i put up comparison pics, the curve on the two are nothing alike.

Here's a few pics to prove that i actually have a mustang. I'm just not much of a photographer, so photos aren't normally on my mind.
Some parts of the car need paint, this winter i'll do a new front valence, the Pside front fender has rust around the antenna (it's a junkyard fender from 20 years ago) and the hatch needs to be stripped and repainted. That should probably be good for a while and it's a lot easier to get a place to paint a few panels than it is a whole car.
And as much as i want real quarter windows, i'll be doing repros this winter and then the mustang decals. I watched Mike's video on it, though i think they should be designed to be easier. Why not make the decal paper fit into the corner of the window then you peel and pull off the rest leaving it in the right place.

Thanks, I'm big on period correct.

I also rebuilt both doors. Added component speakers to both and the dash, new door pins on the passenger all new hardware, new armrests (looked fine in garage, but they really need painting after seeing them in the sun) kilmat where I could fit it, New vapor barriers, door switch covers, map pockets (which did match). I also changed the rod bushings on one side with the square thing that slides in the bracket. After doing one side I determined that without damage it would be pointless to do again.

Turns out most of rattles were coming from the doors and the drivers side only had 1 pushpin that was effective.
BTW, I have a new best way to change door pins. I put hooks in the ceiling and used my beach tow strap to hang it. So easy (once I dremeled out the pins).

AeroCoupe said:

So now you can get new Coupe quarter windows with Mustang on them but I’m not seeing hatch quarters with it? Weird.

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I think you always could get them for a notch (well you have been for a while), they are more expensive, probably because they are licensed (or at least i'm assuming it's licensed).
I would pay the $700 to get hatch quarters with the mustang logo in them.