Top end kit advice needed...

I have a 1991 GT and want to do the top end. Does a set of AFR 165's or 185's with a F-303 cam and an Edelbrock Performer RPM II intake seem like a combination that would work well together ? Eventually would like to add a Procharger down the road. Would like to keep it in pump gas as it will be mostly street driven. FB_IMG_1555506113662.jpg
 
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I loved my AFR 165's and Edelbrock intake. I did a whole engine build with Panhandle Performance so they did a custom cam. Best advice I can give is plan every piece to work together and don't just pick parts at random. Well planned combos normally put out more power and better driveability even if some parts aren't technically as "big." You'll get good advice here.
 
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The AFR 165 are nice heads. The Edelbrock Performer RPM II will hurt your bottom end. You would be better off looking for and old Cobra or Explorer intake for less bucks. The gains with the Edelbrock would only be seen over 5K rpm. Personnaly I would keep the stock cam and with those two mods enjoy the vehicle. You did say it was a street vehicle. Depending on which AFR rocker style you opt for install 1.7 rockers if you want. The boost could come later. I run this setup on a '91 GT.
 
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F303 as a boost cam, right? Cheap and use it if you've already got one, but custom is always better. If you're aiming for a torquey street car, I agree with the advice here. Edelbrock performer slightly outperforms the GT40/cobra/explorer intakes and provides the same powerband. I'd run any of those I could get the best deal on. RPM or Systemax with an AFR185 (flycut stock pistons) and you give up a little torque in exchange for more top end power, and probably a faster ET & higher trap speed in exchange for the broad torque bands that are preferable in a street car.
 
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A little more info on the car. It is an auto with a AOD and has 3:73 gears out back. Exhaust is BBK equal length headers, h-pipe and dynomax mufflers. Has a few bolt one already Typhoon intake and 70mm BBK throttle body, mass air meter and cold air kit. Aluminum radiator and electric fan.
 
Keep the typhoon. Could clean up casting flash while it's out. That was a cheap chinese knockoff of the first edition Edelbrock RPM. They run perfectly well with an AFR head, mid 220's split pattern cam and .550-ish lift. 300-320 rwhp. possibly slightly more depending on other bolt-ons.

Edit: Wait, I've seen those numbers with the manuals, but you might not quite get the same numbers from a slushbox.
 
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If you are serious about running boost later I would wait on the cam. Run the current mods you have with the stock cam with an AFR head or TFS 11r. You could probably even find a set of use twisted wedges for a good price. That will be a fun combo on the street and you'll appreciate the stock cam with the AOD. Once you have your boost ready to go, order a decent ots boost cam or a custom grind.
 
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Heads and intake I think will start with. Just can't make myself keep the Typhoon intake. Besides there is a whistling sound coming from the intake. Not sure exactly what it is. Goes away when you give it gas and briefly when taking it in and out of park and the gears.
 
Give it a google search. You'll see it's common. Had one for a couple years on the last fox that I had for 2 1/2 years. Didn't bother me once I got used to it. Accufab TBs are probably the way to go. They made a 70mm but it might be tough to get your hands on one.

Wayne, if yours doesn't whistle around 800 RPM with the blade closed, then you're lucky. Most people do experience this.

And let me put it this way, BigJs91GT, it really didn't register that you had the BBK 70mm TB until you talked about a whistle at idle. That's immediately what I figured. Only then did I go back and confirm it.
 
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Give it a google search. You'll see it's common. Had one for a couple years on the last fox that I had for 2 1/2 years. Didn't bother me once I got used to it. Accufab TBs are probably the way to go. They made a 70mm but it might be tough to get your hands on one.

Wayne, if yours doesn't whistle around 800 RPM with the blade closed, then you're lucky. Most people do experience this.

And let me put it this way, BigJs91GT, it really didn't register that you had the BBK 70mm TB until you talked about a whistle at idle. That's immediately what I figured. Only then did I go back and confirm it.
Yeah I can see it's a fairly common issue. Doesn't seem to hurt anything. I'll address the issue when I change intakes.
 
When it was my issue, I just lived with it, and kept an eye on the used market for an accufab I could pick up cheap. But since you asked, here's a video of a guy working through the issue. It's painful to watch, but he seems to know what he's doing and cured a similar issue. I don't know if that TB is also a BBK 70mm, but the gist is that any sharp edges tend to whistle. So he rounds every sharp edge he can get to and drill a small hole in the TB. Not sure I'd do all that, because I'd rather sell the BBK on craigslist or facebook where I could represent it as a normal BBK 70mm.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGLPDKzqHVg
 
When it was my issue, I just lived with it, and kept an eye on the used market for an accufab I could pick up cheap. But since you asked, here's a video of a guy working through the issue. It's painful to watch, but he seems to know what he's doing and cured a similar issue. I don't know if that TB is also a BBK 70mm, but the gist is that any sharp edges tend to whistle. So he rounds every sharp edge he can get to and drill a small hole in the TB. Not sure I'd do all that, because I'd rather sell the BBK on craigslist or facebook where I could represent it as a normal BBK 70mm.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGLPDKzqHVg

Apparently the intake not being port matched can also cause the same issue as well as what you described. The issue you described seems the most common tho.