Torque arm/panhard bar question


Founding Member
Oct 10, 2002
City of Angels
I'll ask the questions first incase some of you don't like reading. :nice:

1. Are this items streetable on a daily driven car? Would I have to worry about extra vibration on the car? The brand is maximum motorsports.

2. The instructions say that I would need a stronger rear coil rate. Would the bbk lowering springs be good enough?

3. I was thinking about getting some lakewood action traction bars. would these be a good combation for my future setup? (I have bbk lower and uppers now)

I decided to go this route because the plate that holds the upper control arm on the passenger side is ripping. The only prices I got to fix this is 500 and up. I figure I might as well just get the T.A. and Pan. Bar and elimanate the uppers all together. My car is mostly set up for road racing so I would like to know if I would notice a big difference in cornering like the ad says. I already have subframes welded on and I'm wondering if I have to take them off to put the torque arm on and then weld them back on. I also heard that so h-pipes might need re-welding. Sounds like a lot of work.

Thanks for any input. :flag:
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I have what you want: check out the link in my sig for pics and stuff; Speaking for my own car I can say that the handling is mindblowing, and the ride quality is actually better than stock. To answer your Q's:
1a) Absolutely!!!
1b) Not necessarily. Only if you went with the drag racing lowers, but it's minimal.
(statement 1c) Maximum Motorsports rocks, they have good prices, they did their own extensive and unique R&D, and their customer service is fantastic.
2)What you will need is a specific spring rate, and no, BBK will not work unless they have more products than i know of. You will need a different rate for the fronts than the rears, and getting the right ones are critically important. MM sells a plethora of spring rates, and they sell H&R springs which are far superior to BBK.
3)I don't think so. Traction bars are designed to work with leaf springs, not coils. I'm not familiar with the Lakewood model you named, so they may be different than their forebears, but you'd be best in a suspension of this complexity to get all your main peices in a package from the same place.

It is just like the adds say- with good tires your car with a three link will defy the laws of physics. Getting it set up properly is important, but MM can tell you exactly what you need and you'd do best to call them to discuss your goals. They're a smart bunch of guys. As for your subs, you shouldn't have to pull them out. They can pretty much only be mounted one way, and they have to be installed before you install the TA anyway. Make sure they are welded in, not just bolted! Some H-pipes do need to be modified, but mine didn't. Not sure how I lucked out on that one. Last I knew, MM was in negotiations with Bassini to have them make one specifically for their TA applications and it may be available now. Good luck :nice:
If I were you i would just order the PHB, T/A, LCA's, and H&R springs from 1 place and they may give you a discount for buyin more stuff. My dad was going to buy the road and track kit for his car (never did) and i was going to buy shocks/struts/and tie rod ends and they were gonna give me a few hundred off...

edit: and i meant you should get the MM LCA's too...
My MM suspended Saleen is a great driver. These guys know how to put a system together. Everything went together great, and works even better. I've got no complaints with MM. Car flat out smokes through corners, and gets a hard bite off the line. I was surprised just how well it hooks off the line. I'm very happy.
Thanks for the replys guys!! I'm pretty much was sold when I posted the thread and now God can only stop me from getting these parts (looks to the sky nervously). So H&R shocks should do it for me? Will this lower the car any? I plan on hitting a road race course some time next year.
Panhard rod is an absolute must for a live-axle road race car. Got to have something to control lateral movement. No way around it -- well, actually, if you don't have it the rear end of the car will spend a lot of time trying to find it's way around the front end of the car. :) Nobody likes to see that.
Legendary said:
What spring rate is good for my 90 Hatch?
That isn't something that any of us should be so irresponsible as to risk your money on. Call MM, tell the tech your goals, and he will get pertinant info about your car and driving needs and he will tell you what you need for your specific application.
All this makes me want to build a suspension, especailly now that for the most part in this stage, I am done with the engine. The suspenson is completly stock minus the sway bar. I have MM full length subframes, love them. The setup I need/want is: camber caster plates, STB, front coil overs, K brace, TA, panrod, and LCA's with some matching rear springs, all MM products.

MM remomends the TA and panrod in all thier kits, even the drag kits, that should tell you something.
Legendary said:
One more question. :p

According to this article:

The MM control arms will produce more noise due to the bearing that bolts to the rear. Will this noise be to much to handle? I drive the car over 2 hours a day at least.
I didn't notice any noise I couldn't live with in mine either- and I have that bearing at both ends- bolting to the rear and to the body; and all of my souund dampening has been ripped ouut to boot. You'll get more road noise from a set of snow tires. Survey still says... no. It isn't unusual for me to put 1,000 miles on this suspension in a week, the benefits far outway any little bit of noise you shouldn't hear over your exhaust anyway.
In your sig it says that you are going to go with an aluminum driveshaft. Buy that from Griggs, not a FMS piece. The Griggs is a smaller diameter that was designed to work with a Torque Arm, and around exhaust.
Also yes you will probably have to lengthen your exhaust a matter of inches so that the clamps for the catback will clear the torque arm crossmember.

Dont count out Griggs. Give MM a call and give Griggs a call, choose which is better after speaking with them, and seeing what their cars can do.