At least the wire nuts that I found on my 53 brand x truck are color correct. Red truck. Red wire nuts. Found a couple when I installed the new fuel line, yeah, I keep finding things to do to that truck like I don't have enough to keep up with!
I want to know what you guys are taking I need some.
I do all manner of electrical projects, and am an electrician. A properly done and heat shrunk buttsplice is far superior to a wire nut in an automotive application.
When I see a wire nut in an automotive application I immediately think 'has no idea what they are doing' a wire nut has no way to be sealed from moisture ect. (Well they do but most wont do that properly)
If you dont clean older wire properly it may not take the solder joint.
The reality is if the correct tool and splice size is used a butt splice is a simple reliable connection.
I have taken a liking to the butt connectors with the solder built in
Fyi many many year ago (think birth of electrical work) every connection was soldered after wrapping the wires. The connection method moved to compression connectors as they are more reliable over a long period and are easier (and faster) to apply correctly.
I do as well for 90% of the connections I make, but for anything that needs to be flexible it is best to use a double crimp connection once on the wire and a strain relief on the insulation. good shrink tube over a solder joint will accomplish this same task.I'm still old school. I still solder everything, and heat shrink it. I have at least 100 soldered connections in my car that are old enough to vote, and I haven't had one fail yet.
Kurt
I do as well for 90% of the connections I make, but for anything that needs to be flexible it is best to use a double crimp connection once on the wire and a strain relief on the insulation. good shrink tube over a solder joint will accomplish this same task.
It depends on the transmission, gearing and vehicle weight. In a medium light Mustang, a manual transmission with more midrange torque in the engine will be much more fun to drive than a high rpm torque convertor auto with a peak power race engine. A manual will make the second engine more driveable on the street, but like some of the high output 4 cylinders, it will still need to be spun high to not be a dog.Since this is a discussion on heads, I want to know where the torque numbers are between those two heads on say a 347.
I ask this because I could care about hp numbers. I'm on the street and my feelings have always been torque numbers down low in the rpm range are king on the street. Am I wrong thinking this way?