Fox Trick Flow 170’s on a 331 Stroker

[General karthief]

At least the wire nuts that I found on my 53 brand x truck are color correct. Red truck. Red wire nuts. Found a couple when I installed the new fuel line, yeah, I keep finding things to do to that truck like I don't have enough to keep up with!

 

[revhead347]

I want to know what you guys are taking I need some.
I do all manner of electrical projects, and am an electrician. A properly done and heat shrunk buttsplice is far superior to a wire nut in an automotive application.

That could go either way. If you were the electrician that wired my house, then the value of your opinion is almost nothing. Wire nuts have some bite to them. Done properly, there is good continuity. Of course, if you were the guy that ran 12 gauge solid core up to the rafter under my floor, and then wrapped 14 gauge solid core around it without a wire nut up to my drier, then you can suck it.

Wire nuts work really good on solid core wire, but stranded wire needs to be spread, wound, soldered, and double heat shrinked. I have at least, like bare minimum, 200 soldered connections in my car. In 20 years, not a single one has failed.

Kurt

 

[General karthief]

Wow, this went from heads to wires, somebody throw a wheel fitment or what gear should I use opinion in here quick
Anybody know what muffler should be used with those wire nuts?

 

[a91what]

I am well beyond certified and have wired everything from rollercoasters to nuke plants.
Wire nuts work through compression, stranded wire works just fine with them.

They still have no place in a car, splicing and crimp connectors work just fine if done correctly and are easier to not up if your a sloppy mess and have no right working on wiring.
Crimping is such an inferior method that every OEM makes there connections this way.. (if you cant tell that's obvious sarcasm)

Bottom line hacks will do hack things. If you do it correctly your method of choice will get the job done.

Fyi many many year ago (think birth of electrical work) every connection was soldered after wrapping the wires. The connection method moved to compression connectors as they are more reliable over a long period and are easier (and faster) to apply correctly.

 

[96pushrod]

When I see a wire nut in an automotive application I immediately think 'has no idea what they are doing' a wire nut has no way to be sealed from moisture ect. (Well they do but most wont do that properly)
If you dont clean older wire properly it may not take the solder joint.
The reality is if the correct tool and splice size is used a butt splice is a simple reliable connection.

I agree completely. When I see wire nuts on a car I just shake my head.

Butt splices will almost never fail if done correct.
Hell I’ve seen them in the planes I work on

I have taken a liking to the butt connectors with the solder built in

 

[Mustang5L5]

I have taken a liking to the butt connectors with the solder built in

I like those a lot too.

 

[Noobz347]

Here, you can clearly see the relationship between head displacement and the number of wire nuts used per application:

Oh... and I don't use wire nuts in cars. It's just corrosion waiting to happen.

 

[96stangfl]

Sounds like a rally build. Keep the add ons and keep shopping heads. You'll have more fun with close gears.

 

[revhead347]

Fyi many many year ago (think birth of electrical work) every connection was soldered after wrapping the wires. The connection method moved to compression connectors as they are more reliable over a long period and are easier (and faster) to apply correctly.

I'm still old school. I still solder everything, and heat shrink it. I have at least 100 soldered connections in my car that are old enough to vote, and I haven't had one fail yet.

Kurt

 

[a91what]

I'm still old school. I still solder everything, and heat shrink it. I have at least 100 soldered connections in my car that are old enough to vote, and I haven't had one fail yet.

Kurt

I do as well for 90% of the connections I make, but for anything that needs to be flexible it is best to use a double crimp connection once on the wire and a strain relief on the insulation. good shrink tube over a solder joint will accomplish this same task.

 

[revhead347]

I do as well for 90% of the connections I make, but for anything that needs to be flexible it is best to use a double crimp connection once on the wire and a strain relief on the insulation. good shrink tube over a solder joint will accomplish this same task.

That's what I do every time. I double the heat shrink too....just because I can.

Kurt

 

[96stangfl]

Maybe 3.73s

 

[96stangfl]

I'd say flat top, good for a 1/4 mile and little else.

 

[Lawrencelaundry]

I’ve got a 331 stroker with RHS heads 202 160 210 intake runner , Anderson B31 cam. Is this a good setup? Stock injectors.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Since this is a discussion on heads, I want to know where the torque numbers are between those two heads on say a 347.
I ask this because I could care about hp numbers. I'm on the street and my feelings have always been torque numbers down low in the rpm range are king on the street. Am I wrong thinking this way?

It depends on the transmission, gearing and vehicle weight. In a medium light Mustang, a manual transmission with more midrange torque in the engine will be much more fun to drive than a high rpm torque convertor auto with a peak power race engine. A manual will make the second engine more driveable on the street, but like some of the high output 4 cylinders, it will still need to be spun high to not be a dog.
In either car, I’m looking to make wide power and torque bands instead of just peak numbers. That’s what made my SHO fun to drive. It pulled like a healthy six with good gears, until it took off like a Yamaha Supersport bike. My current Mustang is faster, but the SHO a lot more fun in traffic.

Extra cubes should add to the lower end of the torque band.