Two more questions for header gasket replacement (air pump and lifters)

Two more questions for head gasket replacement (air pump and lifters)

Sorry for all the threads on this head gasket replacement...just trying to think of everything before hand as I wont have help and I want to do this right.

1. Should I replace the lifters when I put everything back together? Lot of miles on the engine, but I don't seem to have any problems. Should I replace them while I have it apart? What about the pushrods?

[Deleted #2 as it was about deleting the smog pump, and I still have a catted H pipe. I'll do this later.]

Again, sorry for all the questions...I really appreciate the advice you guys are giving me.

DW
 
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I would (did) when i did my head gaskets. I like to run mine in the upper RPMs a lot and i figure for $99 bucks a set of stock replacements was insurance enough that i can run it to 6k without fear of collapsing a lifter or getting valve float. If you've got the cash, why not? The pushrods should be fine though.
 
Do you want to do a head gasket or header gasket? If your doing a header gasket than the lifters have nothing to do with it and its a lot more work to change the lifters than the header gasket. You dont really have to take a whole lot off to change a header gasket. Just remove the stuff thats in the way. The altenator can stay right where it is. Just unbolt the header from the h pipe and head and remove the old gasket and clean the mating surface and put the new gasket in and do the opposite of what you did to get it off. Its really easy.
 
I would (did) when i did my head gaskets. I like to run mine in the upper RPMs a lot and i figure for $99 bucks a set of stock replacements was insurance enough that i can run it to 6k without fear of collapsing a lifter or getting valve float. If you've got the cash, why not? The pushrods should be fine though.

haha, that's the problem, I don't have the cash.

Also, should I just check the heads to make sure they aren't warped, or should I go ahead and have them redone? They are E6 heads.

My problem is I just need to get the car back on the road right now...only car I have. I plan on rebuilding the engine this summer. I want to convert to mass air then, E or B cam, better heads, etc.
 
Do you want to do a head gasket or header gasket? If your doing a header gasket than the lifters have nothing to do with it and its a lot more work to change the lifters than the header gasket. You dont really have to take a whole lot off to change a header gasket. Just remove the stuff thats in the way. The altenator can stay right where it is. Just unbolt the header from the h pipe and head and remove the old gasket and clean the mating surface and put the new gasket in and do the opposite of what you did to get it off. Its really easy.

No, I have a blown head gasket between cylinder 7 and 8.
 
Save your money for the summer upgrades and do it then.

FWIW: Do NOT get a letter cam. Note: This is no longer the 80's! :) Disco is long dead, and so is the technology that most of those parts were designed on. Get a *dual* pattern cam. Also, unless you want more top-end, and LESS low-end, stay with the e6's. ANY other head will hurt the low-end. But, 5.0's have plenty of low-end as it is. So, you can afford to loose low-end by going to other heads and other cams.

FWIW: The ONLY safe head to put on an 86 is a TFS.

The e7 heads MAY work. Yea, if you jump off a bridge into water, you MAY live. If you spend ALL of your money buying lottery tickets, you MAY not end up at a homeless shelter. IMHO, ALL THREE of those choices I listed are along the same level of intelligence.

FWIW: I suggest the Explorer intake since it's the best *all around* intake. And, TFS heads are among the best even on 87-95 engines. But, it all depends *where* you want the power band and *where* you're willing to give up power.

_____________
Joe
86 GT, M2300K brake kit, ABS, Mach1 springs, Eaton rear-end, sub-frames, CC, STB, bumpsteer, bla, bla, bla. :)
 
Also, unless you want more top-end, and LESS low-end, stay with the e6's. ANY other head will hurt the low-end. But, 5.0's have plenty of low-end as it is. So, you can afford to loose low-end by going to other heads and other cams.

I think bigger heads hurting low end is only up to a point. When I installed my Roush 180 heads, I had considerable increase in power and torque at all rpms. Even right off idle. I put the stock cam back in it because it wouldn't smog with the E-cam, but still have the heads, and it is ridiculous how much torque it has over stock. Would I experience the same thing putting a set of AFR 225's on? Not likely. But I think mild performance heads and better stock ones will do better all around. :shrug:
 
I guess some have not played the game long enough to see what you can actually do with the old alphabet cams!!!!!!! You can re-use all your old valvetrain just remember to change your oil before startup this is often missed and causes alot of havoc on the bearings. And remember front means front!!!
 
I think bigger heads hurting low end is only up to a point. When I installed my Roush 180 heads, I had considerable increase in power and torque at all rpms. Even right off idle. I put the stock cam back in it because it wouldn't smog with the E-cam, but still have the heads, and it is ridiculous how much torque it has over stock. Would I experience the same thing putting a set of AFR 225's on? Not likely. But I think mild performance heads and better stock ones will do better all around. :shrug:

It depends a *lot* on the *exact* heads (and intake). That's why I said E7's. :) I'd say that 90% of the bigger heads would loose low-end power. But, since few dynos log below 2.5K -> 3K, many people say they got "power" through-out "all" rpms. While, in fact, in *real-life*, there are always trade-offs.

I don't know about the Roush heads. But, the TFS heads are one of the few (only one that *I* know of) that have as good or better cylinder swirl at low rpms. That swirl helps make the mixture more uniform at low rpms. That's why the e6 heads are NOT "POS" heads. In fact, E6s were used for many years in other vehicles after the Stang went to the E7 heads. The E7s pollute more at idle and have less power in the low-end. But, e7s have more power in the mid & high-end. Qtr mile times sells cars. Also, as I said, the Stang does have "plenty" of low-end as it is. Still, I like to keep as much as I can since I don't have a "dyno" car, nor do I beat the cr*p it of it by taking it to the qtr mile track.